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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Metford
    Posts
    19

    Default Getting your job square to the Drilling machine table

    Quote Originally Posted by jmk89 View Post
    I am using a spirit level to ensure that the rod is vertical
    The above will only make your job vertical.

    Not necessarily square to the spindle of your drilling machine.

    Picture yourself with a pistol drill, trying to drill a hole square to a wall, for a screw or a bolt or whatever.

    Would it matter if the wall was vertical, if your pistol drill was at 45degrees to the wall ?

    This is greatly exagerating the problem on your drilling machine but this is the essence of the problem.

    You need to square up the drilling machine table to the spindle (front to back & side to side) to drill holes square.

    Then your workpiece needs to be held square to the table.

    Get a square & check how square the table is in relation to the spindle of your machine. You could stick a nice long drill into the chuck (one with a nice new shank free of burrs of course) & square up to that.

    Then if you clamp the block suggested above onto the table you will drill a hole which is nice & square. this isnt very important in the wood block, but come time to drill the 3/4" steel rod on the end you need everything going for you so the drill doesn't run off.

    Also, make sure your rod is cut off nice & square on the end, for the same reason.

    Gee been a few good ideas pop up from this post of yours huh?
    Nice going, I learnt a thing or two from this.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Pakenham, outer Melb SE suburb, Vic
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4,158

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tomhowell View Post
    You need to square up the drilling machine table to the spindle (front to back & side to side) to drill holes square.

    Then your workpiece needs to be held square to the table.

    A simple but useful way to do this is to get a thickish bit of wire approx the radius of the table plus a couple of inches.

    Bend an inch or so on one end at 90 degrees, then bend an inch or so the other end at 90 degrees but in the opposite direction, resulting in a sort of elongated Z shape.

    Chuck one end in the drill chuck, then raise the table or lower the chuck so the outer end of the wire scrapes the edge of the table.

    If the table is square to the spindle right around, the wire should scrape the table evenly right around as you rotate the chuck by hand.

    If not, square the table up by pivoting it side to side; many tables have an adjustment bolt near the pivot to adjust the table front to back.

    If you can't get the adjustment you need, make up a false tabletop and shim it level.


    HTH............cheers..................Sean


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    979

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by scooter View Post
    Bend an inch or so on one end at 90 degrees, then bend an inch or so the other end at 90 degrees but in the opposite direction, resulting in a sort of elongated Z shape
    I think Scooter is referring to something like this

  5. #19
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Pakenham, outer Melb SE suburb, Vic
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4,158

    Default

    Yup


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,251

    Default Finding the centre of a rod

    Hi Jeremy,

    Like you, I tried unsuccessfully to find exactly what you were looking for,
    so I knocked up a quick drawing.

    The two parts, A & B, I recommend laser cutting from 2mm s/s, the grade doesn't really matter. What will matter is how well you align the two parts.

    On part B I have shown a chamfer, this is optional but would aid to scribing your line.

    Attached is a drawing, unfortunately I was unable to attach two dxf files for the Laser Cutter. If you send me a private email, I will email them to you, and anyone else, if interested.

    If someone knows of a work-around for dxf files, please respond.

    Good luck,

    Regards,

    Ken

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    226

    Default

    Another simple way, is to lay the rod down on a flat surface, then with a height guage or similar lower the scribing edge half the thickness of the rod and mark several lines as you roll the rod on the surface. Doesn't even have to be a height guage, can even be a scriber fastened to a block of wood as long it is somewhere near half the height of the rod.
    Always centre punch, then centre drill then drill the diametre you want.
    Hope this helps.

    Squirrel...

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Pakenham, outer Melb SE suburb, Vic
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4,158

    Default

    Ken, you could archive them into a zip, then upload the zip file.

    Or you could maybe change the file extension to, say, .doc, then add a note to rename the file after downloading.

    Will investigate whether we can add DXF files to the list.


    Cheers..................Sean, moderator


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,251

    Default Finding the centre of a rod

    Thanks for the work-around Scooter.

    I have attached two files Part_A & Part_B. They are shown as doc files,

    but are secretly dxf files, so you will have to change the file ext from .doc to .dxf, before you can use them.

    Would a kind member let me know if this procedure works, if it does, then Bob's my Uncle.

    Ken

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,251

    Default

    I am answering my own question here.

    Attaching the dxf file as a .doc file, then opening it with Word, then saving it as a .dxf file, to my Desk top, works. I just tried it. So there you go. Thanks Scooter.

    Ken

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,251

    Default Finding the centre of a rod

    Dear members,

    I have drawn up a smaller version of the bar centre finder.

    Attached is a drawing, and two .dxf files disguised as .doc files.

    Open the .doc files in Word, then save them them as .dxf files.

    The dxf files are for the Laser Cutter.

    Ken

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Lindfield N.S.W.
    Age
    62
    Posts
    5,643

    Default

    Wow, what a lot of great stuff - I will check the "verticalness" of the table to the quill and look at Ken's gizmo. It cetainly looks the goods

    Thanks everyone
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  13. #27
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Grovedale (Geelong) Victoria
    Age
    74
    Posts
    12,259

    Default

    Have enabled dxf in the attachment area (max file size 250000) no idea if it will work. Someone please try it out.

    Cheers - Neil

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Warwick, QLD
    Age
    45
    Posts
    3,462

    Default

    Trial for .dxf attachments

    These are the dxf files of neksmerj's centre finder
    Have a nice day - Cheers

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,251

    Default

    Thanks to Neil & Wood Butcher.

    Yep, works fine, I was able to open the dxf files directly with Autocad 2002.

    Ken

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    muswellbrook
    Posts
    22

    Default

    this is what I do...
    extend your spindle, give it a shake.... The backlash in this will indicate how much backlash you have in your machine and how accurate you can drill your hole...
    holding your workpiece vertical you can put your drill bit in the chuck...
    spin chuck and see how much it wobbles, if it is nice and true you can line your job up square to the drill bit.
    If not using a rule, place on extended spindle and eye off to job in two spots perpendicular to job.

    drilling center.
    get a center drill
    get a chunk of blue tack and a nail.
    put chunk of blue tack onto side of center drill, push nail into bluetack
    spinning the chuck and the nail around job you can eye off the OD of the rod.
    its sounds rough, but it does work..

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