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27th December 2011, 03:42 PM #1
Lathe stability and finish quality
Hello gents,
I've only recently purchased my first lathe and mill and got some very valuable advice from members here on the question of which tool holder to buy (after getting stung by the chinese set that everyone seems to get when they start out).
I bought the AL320G lathe and HM46 mill from H&F at the November sale and I've been making lots of swarf since.
I just wanted to share something that a lot of you will probably already know but certainly surprised me as to the results I'm now getting from the lathe.
After carefully considering the advice I got from other guys I bought a right and left pair of CTC's SCLCR/L1212F06 holders and a pack of the Korloy CCMT060202 inserts. I was pretty happy with the results I got from these cutters straight away. They're described as a good 'all-rounder' for reducing and facing.
Anyway, I have been meaning to bolt my lathe down to the floor since I got it but have only just gotten around to it. What a difference this makes!
The 320's not a big lathe but given its hernia inducing weight when trying to move it I thought it would be 'allright' just sitting there for a while. I made up clamps to bolt it to the floor from some 50x50x8 angle with three 12mm dyna bolts per side. The immediate rigidity was very noticable.
To try out the results I grabbed the raggiest bit of steel I had, some 20mm black rolled and took a couple of 0.2mm cuts and then faced it off. The photos show the results.
I don't know if they'll impress anyone else but it sure impressed me. To be able to get this kind of finish being a rank newcomer is very gratifying.
So my message is; if you haven't bolted your lathe down yet I'd recommend you do, regardless of how heavy you think it is.
Thanks guys, I hope someone finds this useful.
Cheers,
Wayne
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27th December 2011 03:42 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th December 2011, 04:19 PM #2Dave J Guest
Hi Wayne,
Good to hear your getting good results being new to all this.
Having it bolted down does make the lathe feel more sold, your results might be different, but I have never seen any difference in surface finish between the 2.
I had my current lathe bolted down for around 5 or so years then moved it and didn't want to drill holes out in the center of the floor, so I shimmed it, then latter make adjustable feet.
The only time I see a difference is when doing off set work and I get a little movement, but a bit of weight on the light side helps fix that.This is about the only time I miss it being bolted down.
Dave
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27th December 2011, 04:24 PM #3
Looks good
Wayne
Well done ..you have almost convinced me to trash my HSS tooling
Like Dave, my lathe isn't bolted down . It does wobble slightly at certain RPM , but I get BY OK .
MIKE
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27th December 2011, 08:05 PM #4Intermediate Member
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Good stuff Wayne,
I have my lathe shimmed on pavers in my carport, not the best setup. Plan on laying a slab along one wall of the carport for the lathe and HF46 mill. I will then go down the bolt down route myself.
I have a limited knowledge of carbide tooling, using HSS for everything still.
Do you think your holders and inserts would work well with 4140 and D2, both in the annealed state?
I have not worked with the D2 as yet, not entirely convinced that HSS will do the job.
Mike
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28th December 2011, 08:54 AM #5
Hi Mike.
I'm a complete novice here and am on a steep learning curve myself. I'll have to leave your question for some of the more seasoned heads that contribute here.
I'm sure someone will have the answer or a good opinion.
One thing I can say is that the combination of tool and tip that I chose is providing cuts at a faster rate, cooler and leaving a finish much better than I thought carbide would. The examples that I showed in the photos weren't even from a fresh tip, it's already done quite a bit of work before I bolted the lathe down.
Cheers,
Wayne
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28th December 2011, 10:43 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
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28th December 2011, 11:35 AM #7Dave J Guest
I don't have much experience with different types of carbide as I find it's expensive for hobby work, (if I was getting paid it would be a different matter though).Though CTC prices are making them more attractive these days at around $6-$7 an insert.
I have a few carbide turning tools and a few boring bars that I seem to get a good finish on all steel and the tip is just a standard looking positive rake carbide tip. I have tried it on the softer metals but prefer the HSS because of cost, as it not a good feeling when you do up a $10 insert on a part not even worth that.. I usually only bring it out for harder steels where the HSS wont work, or in the case of the boring bars if I get lazy and and don't feel like sharpening HSS for one hole I will use it.
A few years back I read on another forum that they where using aluminium inserts for mild steel and other annealed steels and getting a great finish, they also showed pictures of it and it was impressive. Since then a lot of other guys on the same forum have bought them and are getting the same results. It's over on the candle power forum, but you have to join to see anything.
I think RayG here tried the same type inserts if I remember right.You should be able to find it in a search.
Dave
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28th December 2011, 01:03 PM #8
Proof of the pudding
Hi guys.
I thought I'd put up a couple more photos of the results I'm getting and I've also posted a video on YouTube that shows my setup and the way I mounted the lathe to the floor.
The video is at:
Finish results from AL320-G lathe - YouTube
Thanks,
Wayne
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28th December 2011, 01:13 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Wayne,
I see in the video you also have a diamond tool holder. I have the same one and I reckon it's great. What do you think of yours?
I mentioned this is another thread, but the maker of my carbide inserts specifically says NOT to use coolant on Group 1 and 2 metals (e.g. 1020, 1045, 1060, 4140). I dunno why they say this. Do you reckon coolant improves the finish?
Chris
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28th December 2011, 02:19 PM #10Dave J Guest
It looks like a mini Hare and Forbes in your shed.
The face cut looks good, what type of steel is that? It looks like a sharp high rake insert, similar to the aluminium ones I was talking about.
Your hold down system for you lathe is a cleaver idea. A lot easier than trying to line up the factory bolt holes.
That video was good, but you must have a lot of dust around as it was blocking some of the screen as it was coming down.
Dave
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28th December 2011, 03:55 PM #11
Hi Chris and Dave,
Yeah it does look like an ad for H&F. I missed getting the mill in the background as well.
The material was some 1" bright ground bar straight from a seconds supplier here in Brisbane. Yes, I did also buy a diamond tool holder and I'm very happy with it as well. It'll take off a lot of material in a pass and using HSS with a very easy sharpening method it will work out a lot more economical for roughing down than carbide. However I just haven't been able to get the almost mirror finish with the DTH as I have with the carbide
Dave the dust comment went straight over my head. Hope you didn't mean bulldust
By the way, the inserts were $34.00 for 10 so at $3.40 each with two ends to play with I think they're affordable enough. I'm still on my first tip (but second edge).
Cheers,
Wayne
Chris.. On the question of coolant, I have found that it helps the finish but not a lot. The main difference is that it helps flush away chips that may get stuck between the trailing edge of the cutter and the material which can mar the finish.
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28th December 2011, 08:08 PM #12
daves tool
Not being funny
I ground up a hss turning tool following daves description in the other post . The results are very good , more than good, they are excellent . No back rake on this tool , just side rake I honed the tip , not much .
MIKE
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28th December 2011, 09:53 PM #13Awaiting Email Confirmation
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wayne, the finish looks good, can't wait for the carbide tooling to arrive, what radius were on the inserts, had purchased from ctc as well, bought the 0.4mm radius inserts.
Mike, i second that, the finish with no back rake is great.
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28th December 2011, 10:09 PM #14Dave J Guest
Wayne, no bull dust my own stupidity, LOL
When I first watched it I didn't think I seen them, then the second time it had like snow falling from the picture. I went back and had a look and found their was none, but after looking around to make sure I wasn't seeing things I must have accidentally clicked on the little star thing down the bottom right which gives that affect, so I feel pretty stupid now. LOL
Those inserts have come down in price a lot at only $3.40 each.
Mike glad to hear it is working good for you as well.
I have been talking to Lather through pm's and like I told him, if your tip is around 80 degrees or less, you can set the tool up on an angle to do the diameter and facing in one go for a shoulder. Just leave around 5 + degrees either side when setting up and as you get to the shoulder wind the cross slide out to face it off, and it leaves a nice finish on both.
As I mentioned in the other thread, if you sharpened a left hand one they make a good facing tool as well.
Dave
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28th December 2011, 11:57 PM #15
Hi Lather,
The tips I bought were the Korloy CCMT060202. They're a 0.2 radius. The following link will take you straight to the CTC listing. Just click on the detailed description tab for all the dimensions.
KORLOY CARBIDE INSERT CCMT NC3020 (10 PCS) #J01
Just by-the-by I also bought the SCLCR/L INDEXABLE BORING BAR #I33 which takes the same inserts. The holder was only about $23 so I've got a few options with the same inserts.
Dave, the dust question has been solved! I thought I was just a bit thick and I had missed something obvious
Cheers,
Wayne
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