Thread: Leveling a Nuttall Lathe

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

Tell me , how many pieces of heavy machinery have you installed in workshops ?

Not enough to think that I know everything, but enough to know when a solution doesn't solve the problem.

Just bolting it down will:
1. Not make the lathe level (not that that is then end of the world, but I would like to start with a level platform).
2. Possibly induce (or simply lock down existing) twist in the bed, with no recourse but to unbolt the lathe and try and find a way of remove the twist and then securing the lathe.

Sorry if I'm not making myself clear.

Thanks RC, I look forward to the pics.

Originally Posted by Vernonv

Not enough to think that I know everything, but enough to know when a solution doesn't solve the problem.

Just bolting it down will:
1. Not make the lathe level (not that that is then end of the world, but I would like to start with a level platform).
2. Possibly induce (or simply lock down existing) twist in the bed, with no recourse but to unbolt the lathe and try and find a way of remove the twist and then securing the lathe.

Sorry if I'm not making myself clear.

Why not find out if there is a twist in the lathe first , before trying to sort out the floor .
Thats our usual manner of doing it .

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

Why not find out if there is a twist in the lathe first , before trying to sort out the floor .

I feel I am going in circles here.

1. I want the lathe to be level, so I can't just bolt it down, because as I have already said, it it currently not level.
2. I also want a method of being able to remove twist that may already be in the bed or may be induced in the bed when it finally get it leveled and secured, so just bolting it down will not provide that.

Originally Posted by Vernonv

I feel I am going in circles here.

1. I want the lathe to be level, so I can't just bolt it down, because as I have already said, it it currently not level.
2. I also want a method of being able to remove twist that may already be in the bed or may be induced in the bed when it finally get it leveled and secured, so just bolting it down will not provide that.

Twist and level are not the same thing .

Is the bed of the lathe twisted ?
If it is , 'leveling' it will not fix the structural alignment problem .
But if , as you say , the centers line up perfectly , then where is the twist ?

Is there flex in the unit ?

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

Twist and level are not the same thing

I think I've made it quite clear that I know they are not the same thing, so why make this statement? For effect?

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

Is the bed of the lathe twisted ?

Don't know, but I'll find out soon enough, once it's been leveled. There is not much point before that.

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

If it is , 'leveling' it will not fix the structural alignment problem .

Yes I know that and again I think I've made that quite clear ... are you not even bothering to read my posts?

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

But if , as you say , the centers line up perfectly , then where is the twist ?

Centers that line up does not mean that there is no twist. On top of that I am not even going to worry about tailstock alignment until I have the lathe leveled, twist free and secured. These are things I would expect an expert should already know.

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

Is there flex in the unit ?

The machine is a bit too big and heavy for me to man handle it, so I don't know.

The lathe appears to be fairly solid as most Nuttall's are.

Do you have a machine level.

If so why not just level the machine by placing shims under the base plates.

If after levelling the lathe base and doing your checks you detect a twist or whatever then adjust the lathe to base.

Jacking bolts will only place strain on the hold down points.

Originally Posted by Vernonv

I think I've made it quite clear that I know they are not the same thing, so why make this statement? For effect?

Don't know, but I'll find out soon enough, once it's been leveled. There is not much point before that.
Yes I know that and again I think I've made that quite clear ... are you not even bothering to read my posts?
Centers that line up does not mean that there is no twist. On top of that I am not even going to worry about tailstock alignment until I have the lathe leveled, twist free and secured. These are things I would expect an expert should already know.

The machine is a bit too big and heavy for me to man handle it, so I don't know.

Yes I am , I have read all of them .

Experts find out if there is a problem before trying to fix it .
But seeing as you know so much , I will leave you to it .

See ya

Hi Vernon,
I read on another forum that it was suggested to use leveling bolts/feet to get it aligned, then paint the concrete with a release agent, then mortar around and under the bases. Then when it is moved later the mortar can be broken up and it will not have stuck and damaged the concrete floor.
This way would give you full support not just in the bolt areas. It might work using the black plastic they use under concrete instead of the release agent to grantee it doesn't damage or stick to the floor.

Dave

Originally Posted by pipeclay

Do you have a machine level.

Yep.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

If so why not just level the machine by placing shims under the base plates.

If after levelling the lathe base and doing your checks you detect a twist or whatever then adjust the lathe to base.

That was one of the options I was considering, my main concern being how big the shims need to be.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

Jacking bolts will only place strain on the hold down points.

Sorry I'm not sure what you are getting at here. Are you saying that's a good or bad thing?

Originally Posted by Dave J

I read on another forum that it was suggested to use leveling bolts/feet to get it aligned, then paint the concrete with a release agent, then mortar around and under the bases.

Thats an interesting suggestion (about using the release agent/plastic). Would certainly make relocation easier and less damaging to the floor.

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

Yes I am , I have read all of them .

Maybe time for a refresher???

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

Experts find out if there is a problem before trying to fix it .

And here I though they followed a logical procedure to achieve the best outcome, rather than just rushing in an bolting the sucker down. I guess I should be happy that you have now educated me.

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

I will leave you to it .

Thank you.

Originally Posted by Vernonv

Maybe time for a refresher???

And here I though they followed a logical procedure to achieve the best outcome, rather than just rushing in an bolting the sucker down. I guess I should be happy that you have now educated me.
Thank you.

Who , but yourself has mentioned rushing in and bolting it down ?

You read the thread again .

In regards to the jacking bolts at the hold down points I would call this a bad idea.

You would be putting a lot of load on only a few points on the feet.

In regards to size of shim for levelling i would think that no more than 2" square .

How much shim or packers do you require at the moment to get the lathe level.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

In regards to the jacking bolts at the hold down points I would call this a bad idea.

You would be putting a lot of load on only a few points on the feet.

OK, thank for clearing that up.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

How much shim or packers do you require at the moment to get the lathe level.

Looking at how much out of level it is I would expect somewhere between 5 and 10mm.

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

Who , but yourself has mentioned rushing in and bolting it down ?

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

So whats the problem ?
Bolt it down to the floor as it stands