Thread: Metal cutting bandsaw accuracy

Hi Tiger,

We just picked up a bigger one from H&F on Friday last. We bought one of the smaller ones around 6 months ago and took about 4 hours to set it up right. The blade it came with was useless and I think lasted one cut only. The replacement blade which then went in worked and worked so the blade could be the start of your problem.

After having bought so much gear which is chinese we will not put it to work until we have set it up and checked it properly despite whatever the paperwork tells us.

Once set up these saws will cut very well and we are currently cutting on the new saw 50 X 5 flat bar around 8 to a stack and all is going well.

The blade should definitely not come off during cutting as it is held in place by the bearings and as such should remain aligned.

Make sure the blade has sufficient clearance for the job i.e. not too fine a tooth as the swarf cannot clear easily and it will just load up.

If you have not used one of these before make sure that the blade supports are brought up as close as possible to the work so that the unsupported length of the blade is minimised.

Take some time to "tune" the saw and it should be good.

Peter

Originally Posted by Tiger

I've bought a metal cutting bandsaw from H and F, the small one. I'm not getting anywhere near a straight cut on 1/2 inch steel plate. Also, the blade falls off either in the middle of the cut or at the end of the cut. I can't find the manual that it came with but don't remember it being much help anyway, is there much to setting these up so that they cut properly. I do remember the manual saying that the saw was factory tested and it wouldn't need adjusting .

Something like this one ?
http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Pro...stockCode=B002

Do not expect too much from a cheap band saw , they do their job and are great value but they have limitations re accuracy.
A few ways to help .
If you have adjustable guide rollers keep them as close as possible together without hitting the cut metal.
Tighten up the blade if its running out.
Reduce your feed rate or down pressure.
Check your blade speed is appropriate.
Set 90° with a square against your clamp and blade, ignore the factory settings.
Consider using some lube to clear swarf or compressed air (eye safety...)
If it will take 10 or 12 mm wide blades consider the thicker ones.(some will take a 16mm)
What are you cutting? research the right TPI for your material ,Bimetal blades are not dear and perform better , there are different types of blade/tooth treatments and a lot of after market blades are better than the ones supplied with the saw often.
Are you clamping it well?

Hope this helps

Brett

I have an old H&F RF115. In my experience when she starts to run off it means the blade is stuffed so replace it. I am not getting exactly fantastic life out of blades though so I am thinking a bigger 712 type saw might be on my event horizon some time.

Thanks, Peter, Brett and hux. I thought I might at least get a couple of decent cuts from the stock blade, I'll go to the saw doctor and get another blade.

Tiger, try talking to Speacilty Saws, Coolstore Rd Croydon. Father and sons who can work wonders with virtually any type of saw. Can make up blades from quality Euro made bulk supplies to your sizes and maintain the blade properly. Barry and Barry Junior. Tell them that Mal from Steeltrends sent you.

Thanks Mal I'll get a price off them.

We've got one of the bigger H&F bandsaws at work here, and in the 5yrs or so I've never seen the blade come off (other than me removing it). Something is wrong, tracking or tension probably, but maybe the feed rate is too high and the blade is hammering in the cut? I go on the slow side for feed, and keep the soluble oil up to it.
I reckon its a really good machine, one of the best H&F tools I've had, the most common problem is keeping the oil going... the reservoir has baffles in it which somehow limit the supply, so I give the thing a tip now and then when feed slows down.
Also had the skew table seize up, and when I tried to move it the whole base turned instead! Had to realign and fix the base before using Inox to free the adjustment part! Put it down to not enough use, too many 90* cuts!!

Good luck.

I have one, and it's pretty good, but:
Get a bimetal blade.
Make sure the blade is tight (I find the plastic knob is not up to the task)
The factory markings are a "guide" only.
Have the guides as close together as possible.

You can do crude adjustments to the guides (blade twist). Make sure it sets the blade perpendicular to the table (and the swing of the cut) which may be a bit out of square. I ended up fiddling with the idle pulley as the blade was jumping off alot. The adjustment couldn't be much rougher. I adjusted it so the blade tends back into the shoulder of the pulleys slightly. I find it cuts pretty well. I tryed the largest chunk of solid I had (75mm diameter mild steel) and found it cut to within 1/2mm easy enough. I tend to leave a larger machining allowance ... and my welding is pretty rough anyway!