Thread: Some Metrology Gear

This arrived in the mail this morning, many thanks to Mark Gray for kindly arranging collection and postage... where would we be without the kind generosity of forum members.. thanks Mark.
I just did the same for him at the other auction, where he got a really nice Mahr Supramess.... So we are swapping indicators via the post.

The auction pictures showed it being stuck on overtravel, it's very sticky in Z but not so bad in X and Y.. haven't pulled it apart yet to see what the problem might be.




The rubber boot is perished and needs to be replaced. Other than being very sticky it might be ok after all...

I found MichaelG's thread on Taster repairs, and will follow in his footsteps for dissassembly. ( Thanks Michael! )

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ma...46/index3.html

And variant22's thread has good info on adjusting concentricity.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...=haimer+taster

Ray

The stickiness could be that someone decided to oil it. Try graphite or a dry lube instead.

Michael

I made up a pin spanner and got the thing dissassembled.. there has been a crash sometime in the past and the lip holding the rubber boot is broken in one section.

I can't see any other damage, and after wiping as much oil off as I could, and re-assembling it the Z is working nice and smoothly, but now the X and Y are very stiff to start moving, once they start moving it's fine, so something is wrong but I can't see what?

The zero position is out of whack as well... the small dial is less than -2, and the large dial is to the left of zero by 1/4 turn. maybe I need a spacer?


Ray

The position of the large pointer is adjustable Ray.... Cannot remember how now, but it is adjustable...

Thanks RC, the adjustment is via the 4 grub screws at the top. but I think I found the problem.

It's toast..... well maybe....

There has been a vertical crash sometime in it's life and the ball has dented the little stop in the center at the top. The material is soft aluminium, so the ball looks ok.



The ceramic break away in the probe obviously doesn't protect against vertical crashes....

I can't see how to get the part out of the body, if I could get it out, I could probably repair it... or make a new one.

Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

Thanks RC, the adjustment is via the 4 grub screws at the top.
Ray

Correction.. those 4 screws at the top are to adjust the probe tip to be concentric with the spindle axis, you loosen off a cap screw from the arbor end you don't need to loosen the cap screw.. and the screws allow lateral and angular adjustment.

The dimpled stop, turns out not to be a problem, since the ball only touches that at the extreme end of travel. Cleaning and more cleaning seems to be working..

Maybe I got a working 3D Taster after all..

Ray

Final result on the Haimer 3D Taster, Adjusted axial alignment with the 4 screws, and checked spring pressure in Z axis, 240 grams at -1mm checked X and Y calibration against Sony digital probe, both spot on.

But the zero position was sitting 0.3mm below -2.00 and as you tighten the assembly you could see the needle moving closer to zero then it got too tight before reaching the correct zero position. ???

Closer inspection showed that the threads were damaged at the point where the Z crash had occurred, and by carefully reworking the threads it came back to zero as it tightened.

So now it sits nicely at -2.00 and moves smoothly in X, Y, Z I think I'd like to have it on it's own arbor, it's just in a 20mm collet for now.

Brilliant bit of gear, I can see it being used all the time on the mill..

So the main problem with stickiness originally was the oil, and subsequently failure to get zero was the damaged threads.

Ray

I blew the cobwebs off mine and remembered you can adjust the 0 position of the long pointer by adjusting the tiny screws that are positioned diagonally around the dial...

Originally Posted by .RC.

I blew the cobwebs off mine and remembered you can adjust the 0 position of the long pointer by adjusting the tiny screws that are positioned diagonally around the dial...

Ok, those screws hold the dial in place, so by moving them you would be moving the whole dial assembly relative to the pin that drives the dial. Makes sense for small adjustments.

Larger Errors, require the whole internal assembly to move, and that's controlled by the screw on cover at the bottom, or in Michael G's case he made a spacer to lift the ball assembly..

Ray