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  1. #1096
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    Hi .RC.

    Looks like it works ok, as far as making the arbor and spacers, what about one of these.. M559 | NT40 Milling Machine Arbor | machineryhouse.com.au


    Ray

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  3. #1097
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    Yes, but that is 1"...... I needed 22mm....Seems to be a standard size for chinese cutters...

    Price is scary on that one though..... They are not badly priced over in the US for the imperial sizes they use.... But 22mm arbors no doubt are available, but you would need to search....

    When I was in Melbourne, Greg and I visited Standaco..... They had a few brand new metric arbors there then, looked like NOS... Cannot remember the size or spindle taper though... Went to Newmac as well, they had a lot of used rusty ones...

    Be nice to have one in every size...

    22mm, 7/8, 1", 27mm, 1 1/4, 32mm...

    That covers pretty much everything except the really big cutters....
    Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.

  4. #1098
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    Metric sizes (that is, gears in Module) are 16, 22 and 27 from memory. 1" is imperial (DP gears). Perhaps try German Ebay or something similar.

    Michael

  5. #1099
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    Default Waldown restoration

    I've made a real start on the Waldown drill press I got from Azzrock (I think I mentioned that in another thread).
    Anyway, everything is apart and all the bright steel parts cleaned and polished (as per Bob's and Ray's example). The quill spring is broken and needs replacement and someone welded the circlip on the quill feed spindle - now fixed up again.
    IMAG0998 (Custom).jpg

    All castings are now cleaned and sanded and so far I've used a spraycan of 1k high fill primer in preparation for a 2-pack finish.
    The motor is now cleaned and the end caps primed, ready to go back together tomorrow.
    A bit more priming and fine sanding to go....
    I will cut an old 11mm thick cast iron BBQ plate from the tip shop to size shortly to fit onto the top of the drill table which is pretty close to chain-drilled in half. I'll then mill the slots to match the originals from the underside. Should look OK.
    IMAG0999 (Custom).jpg

    However, the belt guard is a shop-made (nicely made) monster, and I have another use for it if I can find the Waldown tinware....

    So, does anyone have or know of a spare - beaten up is OK: I'm pretty good with hammers and dollys - somewhere? Would look nicer than a DIY one....
    Please PM me if you can help.
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  6. #1100
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    I've made a real start on the Waldown drill press I got from Azzrock (I think I mentioned that in another thread).
    Anyway, everything is apart and all the bright steel parts cleaned and polished (as per Bob's and Ray's example). The quill spring is broken and needs replacement and someone welded the circlip on the quill feed spindle - now fixed up again.
    IMAG0998 (Custom).jpg

    All castings are now cleaned and sanded and so far I've used a spraycan of 1k high fill primer in preparation for a 2-pack finish.
    The motor is now cleaned and the end caps primed, ready to go back together tomorrow.
    A bit more priming and fine sanding to go....
    I will cut an old 11mm thick cast iron BBQ plate from the tip shop to size shortly to fit onto the top of the drill table which is pretty close to chain-drilled in half. I'll then mill the slots to match the originals from the underside. Should look OK.
    IMAG0999 (Custom).jpg

    However, the belt guard is a shop-made (nicely made) monster, and I have another use for it if I can find the Waldown tinware....

    So, does anyone have or know of a spare - beaten up is OK: I'm pretty good with hammers and dollys - somewhere? Would look nicer than a DIY one....
    Please PM me if you can help.

    That top is probably getting close to falling in half... how are you planning on fixing the new top to the old one?

    Ray

  7. #1101
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    Hi Ray,
    actually, if you look at the underside of yours, you'll see that there are still some substantial fore-aft and one cross rib that intersects the chain drilling.
    I have just cut out a cast iron plate to fit on the top (12mm thick - but will loose a little flattening it yet). I intend screwing it to the table with 5/16" coutersunk screws - drilled and tapped into the original table. Maybe 9 or more. If I can get the two surfaces close enough to matiching/flat, I could also use Loktite to glue the entire surface.

    Despite the heat, I made a little progress - alas now I'm too hot again

    IMAG1000 (Custom).jpg and IMAG1001 (Custom).jpg

    When it cools down a bit more/I cool down again, I'll go and reassemble the motor... I'm determined to make a little progress every day and finish this one in one go
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  8. #1102
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    The heatwave has finally subsided a little here.
    I just came in from the shed where I got a bit more done (since about 10 pm)...
    The motor for the Waldown is back together and runs nicely
    A little closer to repairing the drill table as well....
    IMAG1002 (Custom).jpg IMAG1003 (Custom).jpg
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  9. #1103
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    Default waldown

    hi joe your obviously a man of action.
    Nice work to. Any idea what your going to do about replacing the quill sping?
    azz

  10. #1104
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    Quote Originally Posted by azzrock View Post
    hi joe your obviously a man of action.
    Nice work to. Any idea what your going to do about replacing the quill sping?
    azz
    Thanks Azz!
    Yes, I've ordered one from Hong Kong ($8)... I'll let you know how that works out.
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  11. #1105
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    A little more progress on the Waldown 8SN: Finished sanding all the castings, ready for a final primer coat tomorrow. Came up nice.
    I also fitted the table repair plate properly. Flattened it on the underside with an angle grinder and linisher and blue, until it had an evenly distributed pattern of spots on the original table. Using Loktite on the entire surface and 12 5/16" countersunk screws impact driver tight, the whole thing became nice and solid again. This afternoon I st to grinding the edges to match the original table. Then I set the whole thing up on the shaper and leveled the new top. That was an exercise in frustration I'm afraid, as it was close to impossible to fix it properly on the little Douglas. And I ran out of patience and 'nerve' and didn't get quite low enough to get through the scale on the whole surface. I finished it off with the linisher and it looks kind of OK. Maybe Josh will give it a lick with the grinder one day after I have milled the slots in the plate - the last job before getting ready for gloss paint....
    No photos today. Sorry.
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  12. #1106
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    Well, almost there.
    a bit more filling/priming/sanding today and milled the slots in the new table top.
    I might do a little 'beaumontage' with epoxy and cast iron dust to fill the holes in the side of the table and the boss around the new central hole underneath - just because I can
    IMAG1006.jpg IMAG1005.jpg
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  13. #1107
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Nice Joe

    I have to ask though, whats with that whopping great big counterweight on the RHS of the second pic?
    Also what brand/product of primer have you used?

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  14. #1108
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    Joe the Resurrector.

  15. #1109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Joe the Resurrector.
    He's a mild-mannered magician, Joe. Anyone who digs a rusty incomplete lathe out of a gravel pit and makes it work is a hero of mine.
    And he does that sort of stuff routinely.

  16. #1110
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    Thanks guys....

    Ew, the counterweight is one of two I installed on my mill to counteract some of the knee and table weight + vice and workpiece. Between them they weight 43kg. I found it too hard to crank the table up with a weighty workpiece on it and thought the stress on the the gears and screw were excessive as well. In fact I now have an 8" hand wheel instead of the 8" crank there and use the z-axis for things like vertical milling instaed of refixturing workpieces.

    The primer I use is "HB Body 360", a single pack spraycan specifically for 2-pack acrylic systems. BODYFILL 360 2K PRIMER | HB BODY It takes a bit longer to harden (6 hours or more) but sands very smooth.

    Among the 'inheritance' I got from GregQ was a delapidated Waldown drill vice that Greg had described and shown here previously. He had a go at welding up the 'Swiss' cheese effect with nickel rods and did a pretty good job. Tonight I cleaned it up, ground milled and linished the 'shiney' bits and masked it all up. It came up prety good! It is now drying with a coat of said primer. Might as well have a matching vice, right?
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

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