Thread: Quick Change Toolpost Which Is Better

HI,
Here is the Pictures and the Dimensions - I will do this over two Postings.
The Quick Change Toolpost is an 'Aloris 222 BXA'. The Toolpost came with five different Toolholders : 1. Turning - Facing, 2. Turning - Facing - Boring, 3. Knurling - Turning, 4. Parting Off (takes a 11/16 (17mm Blade), 5. Large Boring Bar holder (3/4" - 1").
The QCTP Kit comes with its own T-Nut, Post, and Nut. I thought that the QCTP T-Nut couldn't be used, but it can be used. The Original AL-960b T-Nut could also be used so I discovered - I thought it would be Hardened, but it doesn't appear to be. However I made My own T-Nut and Post to suit the Lathe and the QCTP.
I might have to finish this Tommorow Night, the Computer is about to be taken out and Shot at the moment.

Pic 1. Original Toolpost and T nut removed for Measuring, Pic 2 Aloris 222 BXA QCTP, Pic 3. Piece of Metal Cut from 75mm x 20mm Flat bar for new T Nut, Pic 4. Tapping the 16mm - 1.5 Thread for the Post in the new T Nut, Pic 5. The T Nuts and Posts (Left - Original, Centre - New T Nut and Post, Right - T Nut and Post that came with QCTP.

Stewart, thanks for the pictures and sketch. One question, what does the countersunk screw in the bottom of the tool-post pillar do?

Originally Posted by steran50

Pic 2 Aloris 222 BXA QCTP,

looks just like the chinese cheapies...

HI ALL,
For the Price I got it for of course its Chinese 10- 15" WEDGE QUICK CHANGE TOOL POST FOR ALORIS 222 BXA - eBay (item 270414954729 end time Oct-17-10 13:57:40 PDT) . Have a look at Pic No.2 and Pic No.3 it Says 'Made In China' on the Boxes. Although it's made in China it is quite well made. I did find one Fault though when I was making the Post. In Pic No.5 of this lot, the Cylinder with the Thread at one end. I found this Cylinder to have a smaller ID at the Threaded end than the other - about 0.3mm. The Cylinder is Hardened, so to get it close to Parallel I used a Pencil Die Grinder to even the Diameter out. The Cylinder which goes into the Centre of the QCTP is easy to remove a bit of 25mm x 5mm FMS and a Shifter will get it out (normal thread) its not that tight.

The 8mm Countersunk Socket Head Cap Screw was what I chose to use to Lock the Post down. I should have used a 6mm one as I had to Modify the Screw to get it to fit. The Recess in the T-Nut bottom was done with the Post screwed onto the T-Nut and put in the Lathe. A Boring Bar from a Milling Boring Head was used in the Lathe to cut the Recess for the Washer. The Screw fastens the Countersunk Washer down into the Recess which both cause the Post to be held downwards. A simpler method would be to use a Grub Screw or Socket Head Cap Screw like shown in Barkersegg Photos. If You use My method the Washer and Head of the Screw must be just below the T-Nut base.

The two small Threaded Holes in the T-Nut are for the Clamping Grub Screws - I used the Grub Screws from the Original Toolpost. The other Hole in the T-Nut was for a Detent,but I have not been able to get it Work. I think that for the Detent to Work I would have to Grind a Ramp on both sides of the Detent Hole in the base of the QCTP to allow the Detent to exit the Hole.

The Material I used was 1045 Bar for the Post and 75mm X 20mm FMS for the T-Nut. I Machined the Area to be Threaded on the Post down to 15.93mm then I Cut the Thread with a Die (16mm -1.5). I used the end of the Tailstock to keep the Die Straight, the Thread Cut beautifully. When I made the T-Nut I dimensioned the Width and Length I left the Thickness about 1.5mm oversize. When I was Cutting the 'T' part of the Nut I used a Depth Micrometer and an Outside Micrometer for the Measurements. I also removed the Compound Slide off the Lathe and Inverted it onto the 'T' of the Nut to check the Fit. My T-Nut although not Perfect ended up being quite a good fit. After I made the T-Nut I realised I could have done it a different way and possibly got a better result - I have not had a lot of Milling Machining experience)

The Action Photo (last Pic) is Me trying the QCTP out by Turning some Mild Steel bar down, it Works quite well. It great not having to use Shims anymore. I am going to make a Locking Device at some stage for the Post instead of using the existing Nut and a Spanner. One thing I have found is when clamping the QCTP down is the Nut tends to cause some Drag and occasionally drags the Toolpost around. It may just need a Washer between the Nut and the QCTP.

What is the general consensus of opinnion, is the AXA or BXA better on the AL960b

Thanks B the B

HI,
In My Opinion probably either the AXA or the BXA is suited to the AL-960B quite well. However I have not physically seen an AXA QCTP. The AXA appears to about the same size as the standard AL-960 Toolpost, but only takes 12mm (1/2") Tools. The BXA is bigger than the standard AL-960 Toolpost and takes 16mm (5/8") Tools. If You aren't concerned about Tool size the AXA should be fine. If You want to take the maxium Tools obviously the BXA. This is probably not the exact Answer that you're after. It is a bit hard though to give an opinion on both without having seen and tried both of them.

I am quite Happy with the performance of My BXA. I would have liked it to Index like the Standard Toolpost though. Also I went for the BXA, because I want to use 16mm Tools.

I agree with Steran50. IMHO the determining factor would be what (lathe) tool size you wanted to use/owned.
16mm tools are a good size for these machines although 12mm is ok as well.
Someone posted a pic with both QCTP's next to each other recently, so it was easy to see the size difference. The BXA seems to be significantly bigger than the AXA. That could be good,,or bad ( not really)
Good luck with the choice.
Sterob

Thanks for your input guys I am only a hobbiest but I like things to be right I already have a good quality 16mm holder with a carbide toolbit and it would be a shame not to be able to use it . I would like to take advantage of the Aus dollar as against the greenback but not much use ordering a toolpost if it doesn't do the job , Can't seem to get my head around the distance from the bottom of the holder to the top of the toolholder in the axa or bxa toolholders
Cheers B the B

Hi folks

I have the AXA still in the box. The electrical problem with the lathe has been fixed (the switch terminals werent tightened!!!!!!!)

I have the odd arrangement of no t-slot but rather a tapped M16 hole in the topslide

I will make up a suitable stud to suit the lathe and the AXA when I get a mo

Expect a report with phots in 1 month

Russ

I have at last made my stud and fitted the AXA.

It works very well and is not too bulky.

The height does change in a ? predictable way as the holder is tightened. perhaps the wedge type might be better.

It is a bit of a pain to have to use a spanner to change the angle of the post - I will make a ball handle to suit.

I havent put it to any great tests yet but feel that rigidity is satisfactory.

Russ

Hi Russ,
Good to hear you got it fitted and are happy with it.
The tool looks to sit only a little further out from standard, so rigidy should not be a problem.
I find with my tool post If I get it just lightly tight and then adjust the height, but mine (a H&F's QA150) pulls toward the post instead up pushing out like yours.
One test to see how repeatable the height is, would be to put a dial indicator on top of the tool and tighten it. Then move the tool out from under it, remove and reinstall it and then put it back under the dial indicator. I don't think you will have any problems as these have been in use for a long time.
If you have a look around the net, there are a lot of good designs for a handle. You will have to cut some of the thread off so it can sit lower.

I see how they get the extra travel out of the cross slide by spacing the handle out. I have seen this on a few lathes and plan to do it to mine when I build the taper attachment. I am going to replace the standard screw with a telescopic screw with a longer thread so it can travel the further distance.
I also see they put the thread dial on the left where mine and most others I see are on the right.

Dave

The handbook (for what its worth) says that the metric leadscrew models have the indicator on the left and imperial LS on the right. Clearly this is the reverse of the actual layout- I have an imperial LS.

It is a bit of a pest. The back of the indicator is open and swarf can drop in. I usually have a bit of card or something in lieu of a better guard (which is on the to do list- quite a long way down).

So far I have only cut M threads (including the M14x1.5 that you can see protruding from the tool post. I am quite proud of that effort although acknowledge that it is a bit long).

When you mention that the HEIGHT changes in a predictable way when you tighten the holder,what do you mean.

Can you give some detail on what you do when you install a new holder in the Tool post with out tool,and the process you go through to get the tool on centre,please.

I see H&F's have the small tool posts for $220 at the annual sale. I think they are equal to the AXA.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Pr...stockCode=L292
They also have one to suit smaller lathes for $165
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Pr...stockCode=L280

Russ
Better to be to long than to short with the thread. From what I can see the thread looks fine and and as long as it works that is all that matters.
I remember yeas ago doing my first thread on my little Hercus and the satisfaction I got when it turned out.
Mine is a imperial lead screw but it is a Chinese machine.
If you are finding the thread dial a problem whee it is, there is nothing stopping you drilling another hole on the other side and changing it over. Who knows there may be a hole there already thats been boged over and painted. You could put a grub screw in the old hole to stop swarf and chips getting in their.

If you did do this you could put a cover over the lead screw like I have done. It and the other 2 guards save a lot of time not having to clean all the time. I didn't have to drill any hole as the gap was already taped M6 for the rack when these lathes are sold over in the US with the carriage wheel on the left.



The other 2 are especially helpful when doing rusty bar or using emory cloth on jobs as it doesn't get on the bed. The one that is attached to the carriage follows it up and down the bed and is always under the cutting tool to catch everything. No hole where drilled as it is attached by the wiper screws which still do there intended job. The one under the chuck just sits their and saves having to dig the chips out from around the threads and socket head bolts.


Sorry for the OT in this thread, I thought it might be of interest.
Dave