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Thread: Scraping Projects
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1st March 2013, 05:21 PM #151Pink 10EE owner
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Here is my latest scraping project, a stand with which to place stuff on to scrape...
I have had the T slot table for a few years, it is 36" X 12" in size... Steel not cast iron as well... The table sits on a leadscrew out of an old junked milling machine so it spins and raises and lowers as it goes...
The base is steel off an old truck I got given... The round pipe is some old 6" bore casing I had on hand, and there are six fingers made of
angle iron to hold the top together... I have to devise a clamping system for these fingers, probably involving some old motorbike roller chain I have here, so it will squeeze the fingers into the inner casing locking everything tight.... At it rotates, I should be able to move whatever is being worked on to get the best light...
It is based on the one in the book Machine Tool Reconditioning, although this one does not tilt... It lowers to 700mm from the ground and will raise 400mm.. I found optimum height for me for power scraping to be around 900mm... A table you sit and work at is around 750mm off the ground.... So this should not only be ideal for scraping projects, but other projects as well... I am planning to put it in the new room I made...Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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1st March 2013, 07:24 PM #152Dave J Guest
Looks good RC, should save you back heaps.
Dave
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1st March 2013, 09:47 PM #153GOLD MEMBER
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Great going RC.
I've found it handy to be able to raise the table as I go from shifting metal to splitting 10ths. Even tried some hip action lol
Why cant I find a table like that!
Stuart
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1st March 2013, 10:55 PM #154SENIOR MEMBER
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very nice!.
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3rd March 2013, 02:38 PM #155SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks to Machtools I tried some of Marco Über Blau™ on the small surface plate today, talk about awesome, compared to the canode it's a greased turkey, so much easier to use, so much clearer to see, so much happiness. Thanks again Phil.
DSCN2637[1].jpg
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4th March 2013, 12:29 PM #156
I agree with that Josh, I have tried the uber bleu this morning and it seems to give better definition around the edges of high spots and it does not smear as badly on stoned sections.
I have also just tried to wring a Jo block to the plate, and I just cannot get it to stick. I guess that rules that idea out.....
I also *think* my little plate may be hollow in the middle.....both the level and my lathes cross slide blue fine off the little plate, but fail the spin test (the real one) and have no cantact for the last inch or so when spotted off the big plate. I wider if dialing the little plate off the big one would be a worthwhile test.....1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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4th March 2013, 03:09 PM #157SENIOR MEMBER
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Is your little plate on three points?I know I just sit my cheese board straight on the bench next to the mill, so it is not supported properly, also there is a light right above it so that throw off the accuracy as well with the differential temperature top to bottom. Donno, just a thought your small plate could be fine.
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4th March 2013, 03:12 PM #158Pink 10EE owner
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Have finished my scraping/work table...
Have made a toggle clamp up that tightens up the angle iron fingers after adjusting the height...
Am fairly happy with it.... The base plate with is 12.7mm plate bowed a bit so I have got some grub screws in the corners to act as stabilisers..
It is too wet to do much outside at the moment so I am stuck in the shed.... You could bog a duck around here right now.. Water running everywhere... and had our yearly average of rain (about 1 metre) in once month..Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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4th March 2013, 03:40 PM #159SENIOR MEMBER
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That would be a very handy addition to the arsenal.
I did wonder how you'd be doing up there, I recall an overflowing bore some time back. I was up in the Blue Mountains climbing last weekend and we had almost 7" on the Saturday. Not the time to be dangling from a piece of 10 mm rope!
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4th March 2013, 03:44 PM #160GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Ewan,
Don't get to worried just yet, a couple of 0.0001" can turn your spotting from nice to .......... well less than nice. Spot it on your new plate and see what you get.
Hi RC,
You got foot prints on it already!
Thats going to come in handy.
Stuart
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4th March 2013, 05:59 PM #161
Hi RC,
Looks good, you had me confused at first glance with the circular cut-out in the base, I couldn't see how it would rotate.... then I realised
I see the biax in the background, and the new heat treatment oven, and a remarkably clean floor, so I'm guessing this is all taking place in the new workshop clean room facility..
Having the T slots is a big plus, that gives a lot of flexibility in fixturing.
Nice idea and very timely.
Regards
Ray
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4th March 2013, 08:39 PM #162
I tried a test with a 10th DTI and the one stand i have, but repeatability is poor, the whole lot is just not rigid enough at a 6" stretch. And thats at 2.5um, i can't imagine what Ray and Josh go through at their measurable levels. The plate is not on 3 points, i guess it would be a good idea, but unlike the big plate there is no indication of where it was supported when it was made.
Josh, if you have some details of height vs base size vs reach of stands (crossing threads a bit here, sorry) that would be good to know. I'm thinking a stand, cast iron base with 3/4 or 1" riser and 5/8" arm and a Noga or Fisso adjuster and holder would be reasonable. The closer the fine adjustment is to the dial the more rigid the setup should be.
On the Uber Blau, i tried it spotting the saddle off the lathe bed this arvo and i reckon it is better here too than the canode.1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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4th March 2013, 10:17 PM #163SENIOR MEMBER
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The best rule of thumb I'm aware of is to simply support it at the Airy Points. Well in fact I think the two back ones are technically Airy points and the front one simply stops the lot from dropping on your toes
If you go to page 5 of this document it will show you how to calculate where to put the pads http://www.tru-stone.com/pdf/Fed%20S...GGG-P-463c.pdf
Pete
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5th March 2013, 10:01 AM #164Pink 10EE owner
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Not a project, but a link to a project... When you see all the pictures you will be speechless..
My weekend with the Biax. Pic heavy.Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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5th March 2013, 10:20 AM #165SENIOR MEMBER
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