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  1. #151
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    Here is my latest scraping project, a stand with which to place stuff on to scrape...

    I have had the T slot table for a few years, it is 36" X 12" in size... Steel not cast iron as well... The table sits on a leadscrew out of an old junked milling machine so it spins and raises and lowers as it goes...

    The base is steel off an old truck I got given... The round pipe is some old 6" bore casing I had on hand, and there are six fingers made of
    angle iron to hold the top together... I have to devise a clamping system for these fingers, probably involving some old motorbike roller chain I have here, so it will squeeze the fingers into the inner casing locking everything tight.... At it rotates, I should be able to move whatever is being worked on to get the best light...

    It is based on the one in the book Machine Tool Reconditioning, although this one does not tilt... It lowers to 700mm from the ground and will raise 400mm.. I found optimum height for me for power scraping to be around 900mm... A table you sit and work at is around 750mm off the ground.... So this should not only be ideal for scraping projects, but other projects as well... I am planning to put it in the new room I made...
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  3. #152
    Dave J Guest

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    Looks good RC, should save you back heaps.

    Dave

  4. #153
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    Jul 2010
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    Melbourne
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    Great going RC.
    I've found it handy to be able to raise the table as I go from shifting metal to splitting 10ths. Even tried some hip action lol

    Why cant I find a table like that!

    Stuart

  5. #154
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Australia
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    765

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    very nice!.

  6. #155
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    Oct 2012
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    Thanks to Machtools I tried some of Marco Über Blau™ on the small surface plate today, talk about awesome, compared to the canode it's a greased turkey, so much easier to use, so much clearer to see, so much happiness. Thanks again Phil.

    DSCN2637[1].jpg

  7. #156
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    I agree with that Josh, I have tried the uber bleu this morning and it seems to give better definition around the edges of high spots and it does not smear as badly on stoned sections.

    I have also just tried to wring a Jo block to the plate, and I just cannot get it to stick. I guess that rules that idea out.....

    I also *think* my little plate may be hollow in the middle.....both the level and my lathes cross slide blue fine off the little plate, but fail the spin test (the real one) and have no cantact for the last inch or so when spotted off the big plate. I wider if dialing the little plate off the big one would be a worthwhile test.....
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  8. #157
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    Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    I agree with that Josh, I have tried the uber bleu this morning and it seems to give better definition around the edges of high spots and it does not smear as badly on stoned sections.

    I have also just tried to wring a Jo block to the plate, and I just cannot get it to stick. I guess that rules that idea out.....

    I also *think* my little plate may be hollow in the middle.....both the level and my lathes cross slide blue fine off the little plate, but fail the spin test (the real one) and have no cantact for the last inch or so when spotted off the big plate. I wider if dialing the little plate off the big one would be a worthwhile test.....
    Is your little plate on three points?I know I just sit my cheese board straight on the bench next to the mill, so it is not supported properly, also there is a light right above it so that throw off the accuracy as well with the differential temperature top to bottom. Donno, just a thought your small plate could be fine.

  9. #158
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    near Rockhampton
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    Have finished my scraping/work table...

    Have made a toggle clamp up that tightens up the angle iron fingers after adjusting the height...

    Am fairly happy with it.... The base plate with is 12.7mm plate bowed a bit so I have got some grub screws in the corners to act as stabilisers..

    It is too wet to do much outside at the moment so I am stuck in the shed.... You could bog a duck around here right now.. Water running everywhere... and had our yearly average of rain (about 1 metre) in once month..
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  10. #159
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    Oct 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    It is too wet to do much outside at the moment so I am stuck in the shed.... You could bog a duck around here right now.. Water running everywhere... and had our yearly average of rain (about 1 metre) in once month..
    That would be a very handy addition to the arsenal.

    I did wonder how you'd be doing up there, I recall an overflowing bore some time back. I was up in the Blue Mountains climbing last weekend and we had almost 7" on the Saturday. Not the time to be dangling from a piece of 10 mm rope!

  11. #160
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    Hi Ewan,
    Don't get to worried just yet, a couple of 0.0001" can turn your spotting from nice to .......... well less than nice. Spot it on your new plate and see what you get.

    Hi RC,
    You got foot prints on it already!
    Thats going to come in handy.

    Stuart

  12. #161
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Victoria, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    Have finished my scraping/work table...

    Have made a toggle clamp up that tightens up the angle iron fingers after adjusting the height...

    Am fairly happy with it.... The base plate with is 12.7mm plate bowed a bit so I have got some grub screws in the corners to act as stabilisers..

    It is too wet to do much outside at the moment so I am stuck in the shed.... You could bog a duck around here right now.. Water running everywhere... and had our yearly average of rain (about 1 metre) in once month..
    Hi RC,

    Looks good, you had me confused at first glance with the circular cut-out in the base, I couldn't see how it would rotate.... then I realised

    I see the biax in the background, and the new heat treatment oven, and a remarkably clean floor, so I'm guessing this is all taking place in the new workshop clean room facility..

    Having the T slots is a big plus, that gives a lot of flexibility in fixturing.

    Nice idea and very timely.

    Regards
    Ray

  13. #162
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    I tried a test with a 10th DTI and the one stand i have, but repeatability is poor, the whole lot is just not rigid enough at a 6" stretch. And thats at 2.5um, i can't imagine what Ray and Josh go through at their measurable levels. The plate is not on 3 points, i guess it would be a good idea, but unlike the big plate there is no indication of where it was supported when it was made.

    Josh, if you have some details of height vs base size vs reach of stands (crossing threads a bit here, sorry) that would be good to know. I'm thinking a stand, cast iron base with 3/4 or 1" riser and 5/8" arm and a Noga or Fisso adjuster and holder would be reasonable. The closer the fine adjustment is to the dial the more rigid the setup should be.

    On the Uber Blau, i tried it spotting the saddle off the lathe bed this arvo and i reckon it is better here too than the canode.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  14. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    The plate is not on 3 points, i guess it would be a good idea, but unlike the big plate there is no indication of where it was supported when it was made.
    The best rule of thumb I'm aware of is to simply support it at the Airy Points. Well in fact I think the two back ones are technically Airy points and the front one simply stops the lot from dropping on your toes

    If you go to page 5 of this document it will show you how to calculate where to put the pads http://www.tru-stone.com/pdf/Fed%20S...GGG-P-463c.pdf

    Pete

  15. #164
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    Not a project, but a link to a project... When you see all the pictures you will be speechless..

    My weekend with the Biax. Pic heavy.
    Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.

  16. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    Not a project, but a link to a project... When you see all the pictures you will be speechless..
    I pretty sure that Nate guy, has all that gear in a basement. And he gets it all in there from a trap door in the kitchen.

    Phil.

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