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  1. #1
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    Default Spindle Collet Chuck (ER32)

    Now that the spindle problems are over (see https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/he...39/index3.html) - and perhaps someone can tell me how to insert a link - I'd like to see some comment about the concept of a hammerless collet drawbar. I have always been concerned about bearing damage when driving out MTs, particularly in the Mill. Now that I have decided to use the ER32 in the lathe as well, now was the time to dream up a method of MT removal without a BH (Brass Hammer).

    I have copied this from the above thread (Post 33):

    I was planning to cut the end off the closed end of the 4M sleeve so that it was just longer than the 3M of the chuck. This would allow long stock (up to 10mm dia) to fit up the spindle. Refer now to VHQ drg; (marginally better than chalk-on-the-concrete-floor)
    SpindleColletDrawbar.jpg
    It's mate would be a draw bar (made from booker rod) to tighten the 3m/4Ms into the spindle nose, then disconnect & withdraw the bar.
    To remove the chuck & sleeve, reinsert (screw) the bar into the chuck stem so that the sleeve withdrawal nut also engages the 4M sleeve and then engage the spindle collar with the dogs in the back of the spindle.
    Undo the drawbar and it 'should' push the chuck out, then the sleeve.
    NO BRASS HAMMER NEEDED TO FIT OR REMOVE THE MORSE TAPERS.

    I was hoping someone may have had or seen a better idea.

    Today, I completed the collar that engages the 4MT and modified the 4MT.

    Before Ewan gets all excited and re-tells me to use a 'proper' spindle chuck, at this stage, I'm happy to be limited to 10mm dia long stock.

    Hoping not to interfere with the Origin Watchers. Regards, Daryl

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  3. #2
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    I'm excited......so what happens now??

    In the latest project thread, back a page or 2 there was a air operated DB for a mill, with trapped DB for breaking the tapper free. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/yo...ml#post1647325
    With mt4 i don't think your locking pins will hold up, it can take a fair but to shake the taper loose. I also wouldn't take any interrupted cuts without the DB in place.

    State of Origin? I was born in a Territory.........
    Last edited by Ueee; 5th June 2013 at 08:35 PM. Reason: Added link
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    State of Origin? I was born in a Territory.........
    Ooh, I didn't know Territories were around 29 years ago

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Shed View Post
    Ooh, I didn't know Territories were around 29 years ago
    I was going to say that but I thought I would behave for once lol.

    Dean

  6. #5
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    Default Origin & Drawbar

    Ah ... it's hard to beat the refs as well.

    Doesn't matter if you are from one of the Territories. I'm a Mallee Boy, but live in Maroon Territory now.

    Back to the DB. (Hey! That's ME)

    Ewan, the 3MT in the tailstock is pushed out by the handwheel pretty easily. When I use the 3MT DB chuck from the mill, I screw a small 'buffer' into the end of it so that the TS spindle doesn't try to be too intimate with the 3MT in the chuck - the spindle pushes on the buffer, and the MT pushes out easily.

    I'm expecting that if I make sure that the notched collar is a neat fit in the back of the lathe spindle, the pressure on the pins should be close to the inside dia of the spindle. If it fails - I'll ask Shed to close/delete this thread for me.

    Daryl

  7. #6
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    Default ... It Works!

    G'day All,
    Well the spindle chuck drawbar, designed to remove the chuck as well, has worked very well. As Ewan predicted (or was it Phil?), the 'weak point' was the roll-pin lugs in the back of the spindle. The lugs would have worked fine if the wall thickness of the spindle was a bit greater. The solution was to push a tight sleeve (band?) over the outside of the spindle to contain the lugs. I have mounted the ER32 and the standard chuck - both were easily pushed out by the drawbar - no hammer was used!
    P6070779.jpgP6060778.jpg
    Since the idea worked so well, I have moved on to the Mill. I have replaced the chinese bearings with quality japanese ones, so to protect them, here is a chuck removal collar that fits over the the J-nut on the spindle. This time, the early failure mode was the roll-pin in the drawbar, so I upped it from 4mm to 5mm. The standard chuck removed easily without the brass hammer, but the ER32 was more reluctant - but with 'max-pressure' between the collar & drawbar, a very gentle tap on the drawbar with the BH snapped it free. So I'm happy that it will at least ensure bearing longevity.
    P6220781.jpgP6220782.jpgP6220783.jpg
    All in the interests of hammer-less chuck removals.

    Regards, Daryl
    Last edited by DarBee; 23rd June 2013 at 09:23 PM. Reason: messed up pix

  8. #7
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    Default

    Yes yes very good
    Don't mind me I spent a couple of days making an adaptor for my ER32 chuck only to find the chuck is out so I wasted my time.

    Great idea, well done.

    Stuart

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Yes yes very good
    Don't mind me I spent a couple of days making an adaptor for my ER32 chuck only to find the chuck is out so I wasted my time.

    Great idea, well done.

    Stuart
    Get that TPG done and regrind the taper.......

    Glad it worked Daryl, I take it the grey thing bolted to the nose is an detent pin for indexing?

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  10. #9
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    Default

    A quick way would be to spend $80 or so and buy a 5c collet block which you could hold in your chuck. Arceurotrade in the UK have a 5C compatible Er32 holder that you could hold in the collet block.

    doubleboost on madmodder.net has a 4 part video on making a ER32 chuck for his lathe with a screw on chuck. Well worth watching. Start here

    ER 32 COLLET HOLDER VIDEO

  11. #10
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    Default ... the Grey Thing

    Hi all & Ewan & RodWeb,

    After reading the sage advice of Phil (& others), instead of cutting lumps out of the spindle nose to index the spindle, I cut (V-shaped) chunks out of the face plate, and yes, the 'Grey Thing' is the bracket that holds an 8mm socket head pointed to match the Vs in the face plate. The bracket is bolted to the air-seal collar. The face plate is indexed to break the circle into 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 & 10 parts.

    The air seal collar is where this whole exercise started - I couldn't phit my phat phingers in the oriental recess if the air seal collar to remove the 3 bolts holding the chuck/s and face plate to the spindle.

    Following enlargement of the bolt recess, I changed the spindle bearings for quality japanese, cut the indexing Vs in the face plate, fitted the ER32 (fits straight in with a 3-4 MT sleeve).

    For RodWeb, the issue at this stage was removing the ER32 without using a brass hammer on the drawbar (and giving the new bearings an unnecessary rattle) - hence, the drawbar is also designed to remove the ER32 as well as hold it in. I then gave the mini-mill the same new bearing treatment and a chuck removal collar to 'save' the new bearings from being 'whacked'.

    Thanks for the vid-link - interesting - but where is the challenge in spending $80?

    Regards, Daryl

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