Quote Originally Posted by Machtool View Post
I have a few thoughts, Grinding conventional would help, you can see it Ken's first post, third Pic. The jig, if I orient that normal, I'm going to plow into the heads of those socket head screws. So I plunge ground the one test piece. T & C grinder might be better, but the edge is so thin it burns even under coolant.

Does any one know how power hack saw blades are heat treated? I was under the impression that only the teeth were induction hardened, giving the shank some flexibility.

The angle doesn't help, it's waffer thin. You can easily deflect the thin end under light finger pressure. I cant see that standing up under cutting forces. I think it will just fold over.

Phil.

Hi Phil, Ken,

Don't know for sure about hacksaw blades, but I can say for sure you won't get a decent cutting edge if it's soft stuff, might be easy enough to harden however, heat to bright orange ( or non magnetic if you prefer) and quench in oil, then temper.

Regards
Ray

PS I cross posted with Stuart, but that's a good idea to extend the support all the way to the edge, not just to stop flexing, but it will act as a bit of heatsinking as well.