Thread: Tailstock chuck lubrication?

Ken .
A little oil is the answer.

I usually remove the chuck jaws from my chucks after each session and clean any metal dust from the scroll using some kerosine and an old paint brush .I wash the jaws as well .
I just let the kero dry and then apply a light oil to the scroll and on the mating grooves on the jaws and the put the jaws back into the chuck. If you over oil the chuck you will end up wearing most of the oil when you next use the chuck.
The foam sound like a good idea ,but it could get a bit funky with hot metal chips.

I also have a piece of cotton rag soaked in oil that hangs near my lathe .I use this to wipe every thing over after I have finished with the lathe.
Before I started doing this I would come back the next day and find my rusty finger prints over the chuck etc.

Yes Ken - everything mechanical needs some lubrication. A lathe chuck will hold as much as it needs and deposit the remainder up the wall and over your best shirt.

Best starting point is to strip the chuck to ensure that the lubricant gets where it is needed. I believe that special chuck oils are made but I use chain bar oil, the same as I use on the bed. This is a sticky monograde oil that has similar characteristics to commercial slideway oil.

To strip a three jaw self centering chuck, first remove the jaws, then the backplate, noting the relative positions of the bolt holes. Remove the three screws holding the scroll retention plate, again noting their positions. Carefully tap the chuck, face side up, on your bench. The retaining plate should drop out. Remove the scroll pinions and mark to ensure that they return to their respective positions. A further tap should release the scroll. If not, give it a tap from the front with a suitably soft drift.

Clean out the crud, of which there will be plenty, sparingly oil and reassemble in reverse order. Remount the chuck on your lathe and arrange a shield (an old cardboard box will do) to catch the excess oil which will be flung out when the machine is started. Run the lathe for about five minutes or until all excess oil is removed.

This process undertaken every year or so will provide sufficient lubrication for the scroll and pinions. In addition, lightly oil the jaws every time you remember to remove them and pick swarf out of the scroll.

With respect to a jacobs-type drill chuck used in the tailstock, you can be a little more liberal with the lubrication as it does not rotate. Just retract the jaws and run some oil over them.

For a full strip down, check out the instructions on the Jacobs website, remembering that the outer sleeve on other brands of chuck may push in a different direction to a Jacobs.

Briefly, this process involves pushing the outer sleeve forward using a suitable piece of pipe and a vice or press. The jaw retaining ring (broken into two parts during the manufacturing process) will then fall out, releasing the jaws. The jaws must go back in the same order as the teeth on their backs are staggered relative to each other. You will be amazed at the brilliant simplicity of the design - and how much better a cleaned and well lubricated drill chuck operates.

I am at a loss to describe the process of stripping a keyless chuck but a look at the Albrecht website may reveal something.

Happy oiling

Tony