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Thread: Tailstock Turret
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31st December 2014, 01:18 AM #1.
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Tailstock Turret
A few months back Chris showed some photos of his dissected turret https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...79#post1810179 I said I wouldn't mind something similar and Peter sent me an early Christmas present. Thank you Peter.
The turret's arbor is a Jacobs Morse 2 to J6, a bit beefier than Chris's. The indexing mechanism isn't as beefy. It's simply a spring loaded detent pin with a tapered nose locating in a corresponding tapered seat. Corrosion and wear have taken their toll and the pin wobbles*. I made a replacement pin based on the dimensions of the original. The pin is a reasonable fit in the cast iron body but when located in the turret's indexing hole it needs to be pushed in hard to prevent turret movement. I measured the taper angle to be 9.5 degrees and made a series of tapered test cuts on some bar at and close to that angle to check the fit in the tapered hole. I'm thinking a longer nose on the pin might be an improvement.
I thought the turret's appearance would be improved with a bit of wire brushing and maybe a bit a wet and dry. Didn't do much to improve things so I took a light cut off. This is the hardest cast iron I have ever encountered with some areas harder than others.
Five of the the turret's tool mounting holes were bored slightly undersize, about 15.5mm. The remaining hole was exactly 5/8". Given the problems I have had with tailstock alignment I thought I would mount the turret in the headstock spindle and bore out the holes with a boring bar. At the lowest speed the finish was rough so I thought I'd have a go with the turret tailstock mounted. My plan was to use my imperial boring head until I discovered I'd swapped arbors on the thing and it was sporting a 30 taper. My Kaiser boring head came with a screw on 3M arbor but I didn't have a suitable draw bar for its installation in the Hercus so I went on to make two decisions that were my downfall.
I bored the holes with a 5/8 " slot drill only to find they were slightly undersize so I then used a 5/8" reduced shank drill bit mounted in a collet to open the holes up. May as well have been a licorice twist. With a length of precision ground 4140 as a test bar, there is up to 15 thou (0.381mm) droop in the bar when measured over 4"/100mm in the five drilled holes. There is about 0.0005/ 0.01mm droop when the bar is mounted in the existing 5/8" hole. That hole appears reamed.
My other turret attachment's turret is bored 3/4" and I have a number of sleeves to accommodate the 1/2" and 5/8 " arbored tools I have. There is sufficient cast iron on PDW's turret to bore the holes out to 3/4" . How to bore the holes accurately is my next challenge. Any suggestions?
The tailstock turret has an advantage over the Hercus turret. Tools swing out of the way, they don't on the Hercus.
BT
* wobbles is an exaggeration. The movement is FA but at the end of a tool projecting 4 inches from the turret , it becomes a bit more than that.
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31st December 2014 01:18 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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31st December 2014, 02:17 AM #2
BT, I dig your attention to detail coupled with your appreciation of the aesthetics. Sometimes its just the the vibe of the thing.
It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™
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31st December 2014, 09:57 AM #3
Hi BT,
How about you drill it out with a nice slot drill, 18 or 18.5mm. Then increase it to 19, then ream to 3/4"? The step up to the 19 should be a nice small cut so the slot drill doesn't want to center itself on the old hole too much.
Cheers
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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31st December 2014, 10:25 AM #4
What am I missing Robert? Can you not make a drawbar for your boring head? I have that tiny Deckel head which you could likely mount in a collet if you wished. Let me know and I'll post it.
GQIt's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™
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31st December 2014, 10:41 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Hi BT,
First thing, about the droop test you did(and any boring for that matter)
Won't any testing/machining need to be done with the turret in the position it will be used in?(something closer to the first picture than 11,12 and 13). Unless your tailstock taper is dead on(which I think you are saying it isnt).
Stuart
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31st December 2014, 08:39 PM #6.
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Thank you for the replies Boys.
Ew,
I could creep up to a hair under 3/4" with the boring head then ream with a reamer I don't yet possess. I need to ensure that there is no movement in the indexer which will entail a revision of its design, before I tackle reboring.
Gregory,
Draw bars abound at No.8 but nothing that suits the Hercus/Kaiser combo. If I had a suitable bolt or a length of allthread, I probably wouldn't be in my present predicament.
Thank's for the offer of the kleine bohrkopf.
Stu,
The initial photos show the turret in an inconvenient position. The indexer is underneath and to the rear. The later photos have the turret better placed. The tools swing out of the way with less chance of snagging flesh. That is the position any future boring would take place in. I do have a problem with tailstock alignment, a problem discussed ad nauseum.
Measurement influenced by indicator droop was the problem. Still is along with bed wear.
BT
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31st December 2014, 09:00 PM #7Philomath in training
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A tail stock turret is one of those things that I think would be cool to have until I start thinking about what I'd actually do with it - then I decide that it is in the "later" list of things to get. I'll be interested to see what you use it for.
A couple of thoughts in the mean time -
- Is it worth annealing the turret so that you at least get consistent cuts from it? A soft condition should not influence the function greatly but would certainly help with machining.
- Is it worth trying to drill/ ream with a D bit cutter? Cheap and I'm told slow but accurate may be able to size the hole for you without buying an expensive reamer
- I can't say that I'm greatly taken with the indexing pin. For an application like this spring loaded only means that provided the forces are low enough the pin will stay in place. My thoughts at the moment are drifting to something like a toggle clamp mechanism where the lock is positive.
Michael
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2nd January 2015, 12:42 AM #8.
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Well Michael,
Cool to have, even better when it's a gift.
I've never used my Hercus attachment whereas Bruce has his mounted permanently on his 260 with his tailstock clamp modified so that the tailstock can be dropped and locked in place when required. I've never had multiples in a quantity that warrant the fiddling around setting up the attachment. The T/S turret is, I imagine, more readily usable. Drilling, countersinking, counterboring, tapping and threading. I have plans I bought years ago for some turret tooling including releasing tap and die holders. Maybe I'll get around to making the things.
Heat treatment is still a bit like magic for me and the idea of annealing cast iron more than daunting.
I know nothing about D bits. Probably time for some Google education.
I agree with your thoughts on the indexing.
Bob.
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2nd January 2015, 01:42 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Lathe Turret
Bob
My Hercus 260 is the long bed version.
Its convenient to have the Turret Attachment sitting on the end of the bed at all times,& quickly remove the tailstock as needed.
Every so often its handy for drilling operations & the like on repetitive jobs.
Also, I don't know if others have noticed, but things seem to get heavier as one gets older, is earths gravitational pull changing? The Turret seem to have got heavier !!!!
Regarding Michaels note, about D Bits, they are very easily made & convenient for all of those "special" jobs requiring reamers or special diameter tools.
I recall making one to produce a resizing die for my .218 Bee calibre, it worked well, & was one of those one off jobs.
Best wishes to all for 2015 & beyond.
Bruce
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