Thread: Waldown 8" Series II Grinder tart up x 2

Hi Piers,

They should clean up nicely. Be good when you get them up and running. What color are you going with?

Originally Posted by Piers037

one of the tables has a flat spot.

umm? isnt that a good thing?

Stuart

Cheers Stuart,

I should have said low spot. The grinder came from CMI in Ballarat and I am guessing was used in production so one side is worn down. I will try and get into the shed tonight and measure how much needs to come off to clean it up.

I will be painting them in the original Waldown colour. Does anyone have a colour code or do I need to have it matched? I have spray painted my car in the past, but are not sure What type of paint I should use? Automotive?

Cheers

Piers

Ive got a feeling the grinding wheel that came with it is probably due a dressing...just a hunch though

As for paint, id hit it with 2pack. Its the most chemical resistent coating thats readily available. If youve already been painting cars, then youve had the practise.

Hi Piers,

Nice score, should be a good addition to the workshop, and looks like they will clean up well. I have a soft spot for Waldown stuff..

I did a Waldown drill press with 2 pack acrylic, this one.. Salcomix - 729/732 TPC-ACR and it has been pretty durable so far.

I got the paint place to do a colour match to the inside of the belt cover, If you scout around your machine and see if you can find a decent patch of original paint and then get them to match your colour to that.

The 2 pack acrylic has some nasty isocyanates in it so you'll need good ventilation and masks.

Regards
Ray

Thanks guys for the paint info. I will need to do some research as I have only used the old thinners based paint.

tonight I investigated the low spots. One of them turns out to be created by a high spot on the edge of the table. They are out by 0.35 to 0.42mm so I will give them a skim in the mill before grinding them on a friends surface grinder.

I also removed the aluminium switch plates prior to the paint striping in a caustic bath. To do this I turned up a stubby 1.9mm diameter punch to push them out from the inside of the housing.

cheers

Piers

Hi Piers

if you look here
I have restored a waldown the same as yours
I painted mine with industrial enamel which is what a i also painted my mill with
2 pack i great but you need to spay it away from anything you dont want paint overspray on
cos this stuff floats for miles and stick like s#$t to a blanket dont ask me how I know

cheers
Harty

I would also recommend a good quality Industrial Enamel (ie Solver Line 349) and improve performance further by adding an isocyanate based cross-linking additive (ie Solver DryAdd).

Much easier to apply than a 2pack automotive Urethane/Acrylic system, good build up and very good mechanical properties. Should be cheaper too.

Haymes and Protec have equivalent products to the Solver ones mentioned above.

dsc_9506-600_595.jpg

I remember being intrigued by this picture.... I knew something was different from standard... but then Peter explained it

Seeing Piers machine reminded me...

Regards
Ray

Harty,

your grinder looks great. The Waldown and On-Off plates look like new! Are replacements available or do you have a trick to clean them up?

Cheers

Piers

Hi Piers

I re manufactured the plates they are printed onto a coating on the aluminium as my plates where toast
i have a spare set if you would like them but they say single phase not 3 phase and as ray was eluding to the on and off is reversed from your machine I did this to match another grinder i have so when you go oh bugger the reaction to switch off the machine is the same

cheers
Harty

Harty,

Thanks for the offer of the plates. I will see how well mine clean up.

Cheers

Piers

harty69.

Please describe how you remade the Waldown name plates. Obviously you had to come up with the artwork first. What did you use for that?

I'm guessing, but did you just use your printer onto aluminium. I've tried that, but the ink did not dry, it smudged.

Ken

Originally Posted by neksmerj

harty69.

Please describe how you remade the Waldown name plates. Obviously you had to come up with the artwork first. What did you use for that?

I'm guessing, but did you just use your printer onto aluminium. I've tried that, but the ink did not dry, it smudged.

Ken

Hi ken

I made the art work by scanning the damaged plate as a rough template then recreated the artwork and text in adobe illustrator

the printing is not direct onto the aluminium its a dye sublimation process where you print dye based inks onto a special carrier paper the heat press onto the aluminium once the dye reaches 180 deg it vaporizes and transfers onto a special coating on the aluminium
whats cool is it even transfers through plastic if you forget to remove the protective sheet off the metal
the only down side is you dont get quite as strong a colour cos the backing is not white its aluminium so it looks a little dull still a lot better than a dented up plaque

you can get flatbed printers that will print directly on to just about any surface but i dont have one of those yet as they costs from $180,000 to $400,000 for a decent one

cheers
Harty

Originally Posted by Big Shed

I would also recommend a good quality Industrial Enamel (ie Solver Line 349) and improve performance further by adding an isocyanate based cross-linking additive (ie Solver DryAdd).

Much easier to apply than a 2pack automotive Urethane/Acrylic system, good build up and very good mechanical properties. Should be cheaper too.

Haymes and Protec have equivalent products to the Solver ones mentioned above.

Apologies in advance for the thread hijack Piers037, but I'm just wondering Fred, if the paint you have recommended in the quote above, would also be a good choice to paint the inside of a container which I plan to use as a workshop. I would like something pretty tough, resistant to the usual sorts of workshop chemicals, solvents, coolants oils and greases etc, and able to be applied with a brush or roller. I had been considering using Jotun Hardtop AS, a 2 pack polyurethane, but at $600 or thereabouts to paint the container, it is more than I can justify for the job. I have no idea of the cost of the Solver paint required, but it would be around 130 square metres in total, with present paint being generally in good shape,(It is I believe an epoxy topcoat) but just too dark and dingy, and I wish to brighten things up a bit.
Congratulations on the new arrivals Piers037, with a bit of TLC, they will come up like new and well and truly justify the time and effort taken
Rob