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6th July 2014, 10:07 PM #61
I went ahead and checked the motor today. The results are
Cont. Megger
Winding 1. 18 Ohm 88 MOhm
Winding 2. 18 Ohm 108 MOhm
Winding 3. 18.6 Ohm 60 MOhm
The star point wires have been brought out, all the loose bits tied up. I love those EBay Hemastats. I don't know how I managed without them. I have stuck stuff down with Araldite, including all the knots.
I will need to mount the motor on the mill to drill out some broken bolts. One end only has one bolt left intact.
I am now eyeing off the motor off the cylindrical/piston grinder. It is sitting on the bench behind the rickity card table.
Dean
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6th July 2014 10:07 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th July 2014, 10:14 PM #62
I went ahead and checked the motor today. The results are
Cont. Megger
Winding 1. 18 Ohm 88 MOhm
Winding 2. 18 Ohm 108 MOhm
Winding 3. 18.6 Ohm 60 MOhm
The star point wires have been brought out, all the loose bits tied up. I love those EBay Hemastats. I don't know how I managed without them. I have stuck stuff down with Araldite, including all the knots.
I will need to mount the motor on the mill to drill out some broken bolts. One end only has one bolt left intact.
I am now eyeing off the motor off the cylindrical/piston grinder. It is sitting on the bench behind the rickity card table.
Dean
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6th July 2014, 10:17 PM #63SENIOR MEMBER
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6th July 2014, 11:08 PM #64
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7th July 2014, 08:56 AM #65GOLD MEMBER
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Dean...the meggar is used to test to earth
Place a lead on any motor terminal and the other to the motor casing...set the voltage to 500v and press the button, hopefully it will read infinity
if windings have been discnnected from terminal plate then place the lead on each winding ...make sure the windings and lead are isolated from the motor case when testing...you dont want a false connection to earth/motor case
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7th July 2014, 09:58 AM #66
The Ohm readings are continuity values from a MM. The MOhm readings are from the megger. One wire to each end of a winding and the E wire to the motor case. I should have provided more detail. I hope this is correct. This is what I asked in a previous post and as no-one said no, it figured it must be yes. If not then I guess I am wrong and I need to do some more work on my Chinglish translation skills.
Dean
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7th July 2014, 12:43 PM #67GOLD MEMBER
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7th July 2014, 01:30 PM #68
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7th July 2014, 03:27 PM #69GOLD MEMBER
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25th July 2014, 09:51 PM #70
I have reassembled the motor and connected it to the VFD. It runs well except for a bit of noise.
The motor has been dropped at some stage. On the drill press or off I cannot say.
Motor Rear Plate Repair.jpgMotor Inside Rear 2.jpg
If you look at the top screw hole you can see a lug inside it which serves 2 purposes. I locates the end plate inside the main case and it holds the baffle plate/ring, visible behind the fan in pic 2, in off the fan. The right side and bottom lugs have been broken off and 3 of the screws holding the end plate on were broken off. I managed to remove 2 of the screws, but had to drill and tap the 3rd one. This extracted the threads, so all is good there. The noise was, I presume from the fan hitting the baffle plate. As shown in pic 1, I milled a small flat and drilled a 3mm hole. I then made a 3mm diam pin which I have stuck in with loctite. I am hoping the end plate position will be ok. Once I get it back together on the weekend I will consider this. The pins are only to press the baffle plate in against machined surfaces behind it to hold it in position.
Dean
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27th July 2014, 05:50 PM #71
I put the motor back together and tried it today. I have got rid of the rattle, but there is still a noise. I suspect that it is caused by either
Bearings
Misalignment due to missing locating lugs
Misalignment due to a twisted case, from the drop.
I did have a play with the VFD for a short while. The motor is rated at 1430rpm (Wye connection). At 50Hz it was clocked at 1400rpm. At 140Hz it was clocked at about 4200rpm.
Dean
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