Thread: WIP Cyclone

used 90mm storm water but the actual guard is narrow and probably restricts air flow.

I have come to the same conclusion as others and need to make the guard into 2 independant pieces to allow for the cutting of up to 3mm off an edge without sawdust escaping.

This setup has 150mm duct below the blade and 90mm above. The cyclone is a 5hp,1450rpm, 610mm fan dia, bill penz based design.
Attachment 55315

Hi Al or readers all,

Nearly ready to fire mine up for a test very soon !

I couldn't find any mention of what filters you used....(doesn't mean its not here, just means I'm a bit daft !). Did you end up using the Farr compatible filters ? Where did you source your filters from ? Quote from Donaldson here in Melbourne is ~$250 each ! Ouch ! To import from US = $600 just for freight ! Double ouch ! Used truck filters apparently are great but not having much luck locating them either !

Any sources anyone ?

Great thread !

welcome to the forum.

I just vent mine outside. Pentz cyclone and I am very happy with it. No filters (no neighbors either)

Now this thread has been dredged up; Wongo- assuming you see this, do you still use the same TS guard ( http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...6&postcount=26 ), and are you happy with it, I'm thinking of building one this W/E, probably in clear

Regards,

James

Hi drj6564 and thanks,
As James has said and done I also ended up venting mine outside and haven't had any issues.
If the cyclone is working properly the dust should end up in the collection drum.

I Look forward to seeing some pics of your cyclone.

Same as the other guys, mine is vented to outside with just some mesh over the outlet to stop the wildlife from going up the pipe.

Originally Posted by Al B

Hi drj6564 and thanks,

I Look forward to seeing some pics of your cyclone.

fat chance !.....how can I top yours brilliant work mate.

Originally Posted by apricotripper

fat chance !.....how can I top yours brilliant work mate.

Thanks Jake. You may suprise yourself!

When I was looking at cyclones I wasnt sure if I should build my own. Thats why it took so long to get around to building one, I experimented with marking up the patterns on sheets of paper, soldering bits of sheetmetal together, etc, until I was confident that I could build it. When I did start building the cyclone I actually found it a lot easier than I thought it would be.
Bill Pentz's plans are pretty good, although I did make some minor changes mainly with how I joined the cone and upper body together as you would have seen from the pics in this thread.

G'day Al,
Fantastic work and damn fine thread.
I've been looking at Bills site for a while now and one day........
I got the Carbatec 2hp dusty and it scares me reading Bills info, so it will get attacked and turned into a cyclone.
Just a couple of Q's
Is that the Delta 12" thicknesser, if so what would be the chances of getting a copy of paper patterns or computer docs to make one up for myself ( i'm not an experienced metal worker - more a basher ) ????????? Failing that, how do you go about developing a pattern??
Also not having much in the way of metal working stuff, would you be able to give some back yard cheats in how to roll the metal to make tubing runs etc, and the folds for the interlocking join.
Is it necessaary to have those swaged joins to make a lobster 90, not very backyarder friendly!!! is there another simple way.
Any links to sites that give this info would be good.
BTW I saw a guard for table saw that raises and lowers from the roof (similar to Wongo's) along with dust connection, not sure where but I think the american sites would get you very close. only prob is that you cant move saw around. My Jet tablesaw used to come with a guard that had independent sides that raised and lowered seperatly, only no dust connection, possibly still sold in States and adaptable to dusty.

Thanks for your time
Andrew

Originally Posted by AndrewPatrol

G'day Al,
Fantastic work and damn fine thread.
I've been looking at Bills site for a while now and one day........
I got the Carbatec 2hp dusty and it scares me reading Bills info, so it will get attacked and turned into a cyclone.

Thanks Andrew, Good luck building your cyclone,

Originally Posted by AndrewPatrol

Just a couple of Q's
Is that the Delta 12" thicknesser, if so what would be the chances of getting a copy of paper patterns or computer docs to make one up for myself ( i'm not an experienced metal worker - more a basher ) ????????? Failing that, how do you go about developing a pattern??

Its the carbatec version of the Delta. I am not really sure if I still have the patterns I will have a hunt around and let you know if I find them, While I was building my cyclone I posted a thread that shows how to develop and make a transition. I dont know if you have seen this. Here is the link http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...d.php?p=365984

Originally Posted by AndrewPatrol

Also not having much in the way of metal working stuff, would you be able to give some back yard cheats in how to roll the metal to make tubing runs etc, and the folds for the interlocking join.
Is it necessaary to have those swaged joins to make a lobster 90, not very backyarder friendly!!! is there another simple way.
Any links to sites that give this info would be good.

I cheated and used a sheet metal roller which I was lucky enough to know someone that had one, I think if you are going to do a neat job making your own long length of ducts you will need to use a sheetmetal roller, For the smaller bits pieces like the bends and reducers you could use a bit of round pipe and wrap the sheetmetal around to roll it, The seams for long length of ducts can be bent over some angle iron or similar with a good edge. There are also some pics in this thread that show some flanges being bent over a piece of angle iron.

"Is it nessary for the swagged edges" There are other ways that this can be done but I dont think its as simple and the quality will not be as good. I would recomend a jenny (I purchased mine from Ebay) because its not only swaging the joins it’s also creating the beads and shrinking the end to allow it to slip inside another bit of ducting.

I found the sheetmetal shop site had some very good info here is the link.
http://www.thesheetmetalshop.com/mod...y-pid-128.html

Thanks heaps Al,
Dunno when I'm gonna start the cyclone ( making a bench at mo ) Probably should be next, given the amount of dust that flies around. I used to have a Triton respirator and I would come out of shed feeling better for wearing it.
Spose I could get a fabricator to roll up pipe or just buy it, do you know of places in northern subs of Melb? I am assuming the rollers need to be as long as pipe that I'm making?
BTW dont stress too much about finding those patterns, I know what its like putting something down and five minutes later trying to find it ( I'm over 40 )

Regards Andrew

Hi Andrew,

Why don't you use 150mm PVC Stormwater pipe ? At only $60 for 6metres I'm not sure if its worth making it out of sheetmetal. But of course its lot of fun making it and you get more satisfaction. Als' are brilliant.
The only issue with using pvc is the that the wyes' and bends etc. can add up in cost very quickly. Wye=$33, 90 bend=$23, 45 bend =$18...
Also another couple of ways to bend your sheetmetal is 1. simulate a roller by by placing your sheetmetal over a triton workbench and gently roll a 150mm pipe back forth over the gap between the jaws and moving the material bit by bit...hard to explain, sorry..2. Go to your nearest sheetmetal fabricater and they will roll it for a small fee...

Hope this helps,

Regards.
Joe

Hi Andrew,

Sorry, I meant to say Black n Decker Workmate not Triton.... basically 2 parallel pieces of timber (that can't move with a 100-200mm gap between them) that you can sit your sheetmetal over then roll your pvc over the sheetmetal - it will gently bend the sheetmetal between the 2 parallel timbers....

Cheers,

Joe