Thread: Some pens I made

Excellent pens Evan.

NPGJ. (Sorry, just threw that in for another member of these forums. )

They're looking good, Evan, and there's some damned fine timbers in there. The 3rd pen, the brown mallee burl... what's the reddish timber near the band and clip? Was that deliberate design or was it a case of short blanks?

Either way, 'tis an effective combo. I'm not overly rapt in the nickel cigar kit, just my personal taste, but the timber's bloody lovely!

Evan, lovely pens, well turned and finished, and thanks for sharing what timber you used, love to get some of that, Amos

Top pens well made,The Malle both Red and Brown I think the clip in Black the same as used with the Padouk would be beaut the broad flat clip takes away from the rest,seems too much,takes over the exciting rest of those two pens.
Padouk contrasts with the others,believe we need this as it emphasises the g outstanding feature in the rest,blown away by the snakewood,its such a furry material you conquered that problem.
Overall I find the types of kit give interest,excited by the variety in the bands.
Jim has a good range well done to Jim and Froggie for the variety and quality kits too.
Thanks for the display Peter

You have turned out some very nice pens there Evan.

Nice selection of timber

very nice mate. what finish did you use on them?

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

NPGJ. (Sorry, just threw that in for another member of these forums. )

They're looking good, Evan, and there's some damned fine timbers in there. The 3rd pen, the brown mallee burl... what's the reddish timber near the band and clip? Was that deliberate design or was it a case of short blanks?

Either way, 'tis an effective combo. I'm not overly rapt in the nickel cigar kit, just my personal taste, but the timber's bloody lovely!

Thanks for your replies people; your comments (any) are very encouriging.

Skew,

the center and top bands are small cutoffs I used from the african padouk; I was experimenting with what else could be done to the cigars. I have several black titanium cigars and they look a lot better than the satin nickels. As far as satin pens go I will use the satin gold in future. The satin nickel seems a little bland. Got to experiment to learn. More pics to follow.

Penpal,

the snakewood is a buzz; once you use exotic tropicals you don't want to touch anything else. With snakewood you have to very careful when drilling when you get to the bottom of your blank. You will get breakthrough always if you drill through. The method I now use to avoid this is to cut your blank a little longer and NOT drill to the end but a fraction before you get there, or if you are a little short you can glue a scrap piece at one end. This was the first successful snakewood pen I made and I blew out the rest of my snakewood blanks; very costly and painful lesson (swaring like a trooper, going off like a pork chop) and I've kept the pieces I destroyed to remind myself in future. Even though they are useless now (the broken ones), for some strange reason I cannot throw them out; maybe because it is a very rare species or the cost is too great or maybe in 5 or 10 years time when it becomes extinct I can look at it and say "what a great timber it was and never will be". I'm being a little sentimental now, especially when it comes to rare exotics, but I have to be and use what I can get my hands on in a very thoughtful way.

Jim Carroll,

thanks for your comment; the bloodwood blanks you sent over are being used on some slimlines, what a knockout color, and the kingwood is stunning; it resembles cocobolo in some ways with the slight mauve hues against the darker grain bands. The wenge, what can I say, it looks surreal.
Talk to ya soon.

Stirlo,

The finish I use depends on the timber; I use several coats of danish over 5 to 6 days lightly cutting back each coat with very fine wet and dry except the last 2 coats. I apply 2 coats per day about 10 hours apart. The first 2 coats I let dry for 2 days and then apply the subsequent coats.
The snakewood pen looks more realistic with danish oil than a full on high gloss like shellawax and/or EEE; gloss on snakewood is too gimicky. Better a satin lustre. The burls take on a great finish with shellawax and EEE; it really brings out the color and "grain". With shellawax I apply 2 coats, wait 24 hours, apply EEE then shellawax (2 coats), wait 24 hours before I assemble the pen for it to harden a little to avoid grubby fingermarks.

I will be posting more pics soon; thanks once again for your comments.
Cheers, Evan.

Originally Posted by Evan Pavlidis

The method I now use to avoid this is to cut your blank a little longer and NOT drill to the end but a fraction before you get there

I use the same technique, especially for acrylics.

Well done Evan by the way. I like the assortment of timbers, all good choices.

Talk to Froggie about a drill for all seasons and how well it works and get one or more and you will never be dissapointed.The drill is a DeWalt extreme 2. Hope it helps your blowout problem,it works for me. Cheers Peter

Evan, I am impressed with the amount of time and care and thought you put into making a pen, I get a little impatient and want to see a good pen quickly!!! Amos

Evan, don't you just love both of the mallee pens? Beautiful, beautiful pens. You all of them balanced as to forms, colours, textures, excellent work.

I'm with Skew on the cigar-sized kits.

Good idea to save the bits for rings and experimenting.

What i need is to make me an indexed notebook, with pics and what i liked etc.It would be good to act as a history too. Because there are some really good ideas as well as good combinations of colours, textures, rings and styles.
Hmm, i wonder if there is a dead simple notebook-like database?

Oh, i see Tafts are selling some wooden pens. I wonder if there is a calendar of woods per month - anniversary pens.

See Evan, you are inspiring )

Tom

Originally Posted by Penpal

Talk to Froggie about a drill for all seasons and how well it works and get one or more and you will never be dissapointed.The drill is a DeWalt extreme 2. Hope it helps your blowout problem,it works for me. Cheers Peter

Peter,

thanks for the tip. I've seen these drill bits at Bunnings; they're packed in a plastic yellow sleeve; I havn't paid much attention to them except that I noticed the price (wow). Can you give us a brief rundown about these bits, do they have a different grind which prevents blowouts? I currently use the Sutton viper bits and they don't come cheap either. I keep all my drill bits for pen making in a seperate box and have other sets for general drilling.

Cheers, Evan

Originally Posted by Woodenink

Evan, I am impressed with the amount of time and care and thought you put into making a pen, I get a little impatient and want to see a good pen quickly!!! Amos

Gooday Amos,

when I first started making pens I too was impatient and wanted to see results yesterday . As I progressed I learnt to be patient to put a little more effort and thought into what I was doing especially when it came to preparing the blanks ready to accept a finish. Nowadays I compare my early pens with the current lot and say what on earth was I thinking at the time. I always look back at them to remind myself. When I get around to it I will dissasemble the crappy ones and start over again with better results.
Patience and extra effort really pays off.

Cheers, Evan

Thanks Evan, good advice, will start putting into practise. Amos