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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
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    Canberra
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    633

    Default My WOP Method Journey

    I'm going to try and document my trials and tribulations of using the Wipe On Polyurethane (WOP) method for no other reason than it gives me something to do

    Here is my first attempt, I'm sort of OK with the result, but not completely happy.

    Main mistake: I found the Minwax Polyurethane in Bunnings, but unfortunately I picked up the "Wipe On" version. This is reportedly a lot thinner than the normal Minwax Poly. I know, I know, why is it called the WOP method then. Well in Les’ tutorial it clearly shows normal Minwax Poly, not the wipe on version.

    The result of this mistake is even though I followed Les’ tutorial as best I could (coat, sand, coat, sand, coat, sand, coat, coat, coat, micromesh 6000 through 12000) you will see in the picture below it doesn’t have that same depth. This I believe is due to the thinness of the wip on poly. I could have put on more coats to build up the base, but to be honest this method takes long enough as it is.

    But it isn’t all bad. Because it is thin the wood still has a slight texture to it. Doesn’t feel as good as finishing with Shellawax Glow, but it doesn’t feel as plastic as the CA finish I tried not too long ago.
    Toasty

    "The knack of flying is in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss."

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Maryvale, Queensland
    Posts
    2,338

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Toasty View Post
    you will see in the picture below it doesn’t have that same depth.
    Isn't that a bonus? As you say, not as plastic as a CA finish. I'm not sure what the difference is in your two pictures. The one on the right looks smoother. Is that a CA finish? The left one looks a little rougher, but more "woody", so I take it that's your poly test. Or are they both poly, or the right one Shellawax??

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Canberra
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    Default

    Two different woods, same wipe on poly. The red one doesn't look as smooth because of the grain the thin wipe on poly hasn't been able to fill, this also is why there is a little bit of texture to it.
    Toasty

    "The knack of flying is in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss."

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Red Deer, Alberta Canada
    Age
    78
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    1,958

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Toasty View Post
    Two different woods, same wipe on poly. The red one doesn't look as smooth because of the grain the thin wipe on poly hasn't been able to fill, this also is why there is a little bit of texture to it.
    I find that I have to fill all the voids with a sanding dust Minwax Poly slurry.
    The Minwax Poly acts like a magnifying glass and will show any imperfections on the wood preparation.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Aberglassly,NSW
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    80
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    4,987

    Default

    Toasty,

    I am using the same Minwax as you have, i use the Rustin's sanding sealer to seal up with first. I have also used Sheelawax as the base and then used Minwax over the top with no adverse reaction.

    I have also used the Minwax and burnished it in with a rag same as friction polish and then several coats over the top. I have used a brush to put the WOP on as well and as long as it is a good quality brush it is OK

    I have not been able to locate any Minwax the same as Les uses anywhere, Bunnings only carry gloss and satin WOP and furniture restorer

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
    Age
    68
    Posts
    9,417

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Simomatra View Post
    Toasty,

    ... I have also used Sheelawax as the base and then used Minwax over the top with no adverse reaction.
    Is this something you polish SWMBO with?

    Sorry couldn't resist

    For how long have you used the Minwax over the Sheilawax?
    [We'd better trademark this name before the Benevolent Dictator sees it ]
    ie how many coats of Shellawax and then how many of Minwax

    PS pens look ok Toasty - what's the timber? A sheoak(?) and ...

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
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    Canberra
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    633

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    PS pens look ok Toasty - what's the timber? A sheoak(?) and ...
    Got the sneaky feeling it's a lace sheoak and possibly a jarrah but am not sure as I've had the blanks kicking around for a couple of years now.
    Toasty

    "The knack of flying is in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss."

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Aberglassly,NSW
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    80
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    Is this something you polish SWMBO with?

    Sorry couldn't resist

    For how long have you used the Minwax over the Sheilawax?
    [We'd better trademark this name before the Benevolent Dictator sees it ]
    ie how many coats of Shellawax and then how many of Minwax

    PS pens look ok Toasty - what's the timber? A sheoak(?) and ...
    You made my morning SDM

    As for the Shellawax just one coat and then at least 4 coats of WOP.

    I have also used 2 coats of Newts enhancing Ebonising solution as per the directions and then 4 coats of WOP. The ebonising solution comes from New England Woodturning Supplies

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