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Thread: Buying a wood turning lathe
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31st March 2010, 10:48 AM #1Member
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Buying a wood turning lathe
I would like advice on buying a wood turning lathe. I don't buy junk but could not justify over $2500 if new. However a good secondhand would also be good. I would like to be able to do up to 600 mm long spindle stuff and some larger burr work, so rotating headstock is preferred. I seem to see a lot of the same stuff being sold second hand whilst almost new which is a worry.
Any helpful suggestions appreciated.
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31st March 2010, 10:52 AM #2Pocketful of Pens
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this seems to cover your needs, at the right price. and with $1000 still in your pocket, you could get some accessories for it, such as an outboard tool rest.
Nova 1624-44
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31st March 2010, 11:58 AM #3
Reconsider your budget for a VL175, it will last a very long time and do the job you need easily
Jim Carroll
One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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31st March 2010, 01:29 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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My choice was the Nova 1624/44 and I am very happy with it. If you can hang on till June the Working with Wood Show is on so you will be able to see all brands at the same time and maybe pick up a show special.
Ross
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31st March 2010, 04:08 PM #5Novice
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If you are just a beginner like me, I wouldn't recommend starting off with the biggest and best. Why don’t you try and contact a local woodturning association and trying out wood turning first and then see and experiment to see what you really want. You may love it but you may give it up after 2 weeks
This might help you-
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/lathe-37615/
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/woodturning-7616/
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1st April 2010, 03:33 AM #6Senior Member
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My first preference would be a lathe with variable speed, the turn a knob type. This means either a DC motor which is fine, or a 3 phase motor, 220 volt (don't know if voltages are the same down under) with a converter which is better. This is one fairly recent innovation on lathes that, once you have it, you never want to go back to changing pulley wheels. It is especially handy if you are turning unbalanced blanks. I do prefer a sliding headstock for bowls, so you don't have to bend over to turn which is a literal pain in the back. On some lathes, the headstock will pivot, which works as well, but I still prefer the sliding headstock. If you get a bowl coring system, the McNaughton is the only one that will work if the headstock is pivoted. Of course, the more horse power the motor has the better for production bowl turning, but you don't need a lot for fun turning.
robo hippy
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1st April 2010, 09:57 AM #7
Wouldn't worry about that too much - in fact I'd jump on most of them. There's several common reasons for them going cheap in that condition...
1. Some blokes just look after their gear so well you'd hardly know it's been used (I wish )
2. Had a scary "introductory experience" and decided turning wasn't for them.
3. Just didn't get the bug.
4. Bought it just to turn the occasional knob or handle.
5. Bought it for retirement and carked it at 66
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1st April 2010, 10:15 AM #8Member
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Buying a lathe - thanks very much for info
I am new at this and have not figured out how to reply with thanks for the info receive, so I am doing a new thread. I have seen the Nova and like it. The Victorian machine is very well regarded, I did a lesson in the UK last year and it was considered the best in the world. but, turning may be just a phase so I cannot lash out that much money. I will be going to the Sydney show so a good deal on a Nova could be just the thing.
Finally, for novices are HSS chisels the best and what is the best sharpening system?
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1st April 2010, 11:04 AM #9Retired
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1st April 2010, 12:11 PM #10Hewer of wood
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There's lots of posts on sharpening systems hereward (the Wake?) ... just go to Search up in the menu bar and enter the phrase in the box, or go to Advanced to get more options.
Yes, HSS is really the only way to go for Aussie woods.
To add to TTIT's post, guys who get the bug often upgrade their lathe in time. As posted for the Tassie seeker, contact any local ww/turning clubs and let them know you're in the market; good lathes for sale often never hit the open market.Cheers, Ern
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1st April 2010, 12:43 PM #11
Buying second hand makes a lot of sense. My first lathe was a second hand MC1100 (off these forums), and while it was pretty cheap it did the job and got me hooked I've since upgraded to a Vicmarc VL200 which I also bought second hand off a hobbyist who was giving the game away, and it runs perfectly. When I upgraded I sold my old lathe to another forumite and didn't lose a lot of money at all - something to consider.
Oh, and the other thing you will need to note - a good set of HSS tools (as Ern said, essential!), chucks, jaws, sharpening, etc will cost quite a bit. Easily more than the lathe itself.
For sharpening, I use a bench grinder with an al-ox (white) wheel on it and a sharpening jig from Woodcut. Works great. If you're good at freehand sharpening don't bother, but if you're learning it is very worthwhile having the jig as you can repeat the grind every time.
As you're in Aus, a good level of chisel to get is P&N. There are better (and far worse) brands out there, but these are quite good value for money and are excellent quality.
Chucks and jaws, etc will keep you busy for a while too, but you can accumulate these as you go and work out exactly what sort of stuff you like doing.
Cheers,
Dave
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1st April 2010, 12:50 PM #12Skwair2rownd
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Yes Hereward HSS is the best steel for turning tools. Buthere ieHSS and there is HSSS. Therefore there are turning tools and there are turning tools.
For mine the P&N are difficult to best, particularlyu as the price is so good. Hare and Forbes sell them. You can buy them unhadled, find a club as Ern suggests, and turn your own handles. Good satisfying way to begin as a turner.
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1st April 2010, 01:35 PM #13Hewer of wood
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Yeah, P&N steel is pretty good - the finish on their gouge flutes is however pretty poor. The milling marks must be honed out to get a decent edge.
I've got a Hamlet and a Crown - no complaints. Also have a few Sorbys - steel quality is variable.
Best all round IME is Henry Taylor. But they're exxy and AFAIK now the only local source is here.
If I was starting out again, I'd try out a few tools from Garry Pye whom I've come to trust: click.Cheers, Ern
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1st April 2010, 02:26 PM #14Member
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Joinung Clubs
Thanks for suggestion about joining a club, I did but was asked to leave. Apparently i did too much of my own work and not enough for charity. A shame because some of the turners were very good.
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1st April 2010, 02:54 PM #15Hewer of wood
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Sounds like you're living up to your name.
Cheers, Ern
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