Thread: Chisel Sharpening

Hear, hear!

One of the first things I get my new turners to buy is their own white wheel. That, sand-paper and a set of cheap chisels to learn sharpening on.

I don't mind supplying the timber and finishes, but I've no intention of having to redress my wheel at the end of every day simply 'cos they can corrugate it when sharpening even the widest square scrapers or skews!

The "normal" grey wheels on the average 6" and 8" grinders (ie Abbot and Ashby) are carborundum, not Aluminium oxide.

Have a look at this site -

http://www.toolies.com.au/tips/tips....e8f39ad2da9eb2...

Carborundum is good for quick grinding of mild steel where you are not after an edge, but HSS steel must not overheat. Carborundum is fine if it is water cooled (ie in a lapidary grinder and some specialist grinders).

The Carbatec catalog has some grinders fitted with an aluminium wheel and an "ordinary" wheel (ie carborundum).

Don

Sharpening anything on this forum is bound to elicit numeruos replies. It is full of experts, which is a good thing. So being a non expert at grinding lathe gouges, ie doing it free hand, I bought myself a Jig. Namely a UNI-Jig 5 made in Australia and will grind/sharpen any turning tool. (At least what I own, which is all the normal ones) You can find it at http://www.unijigproducts.com.au/UniJig/unijig.htm.
Do not know them just happy with their Jig.
Regarding grinding wheels, well lots of info. I have a white aluminium oxide one which I used for a long time then at a working with wood show I watched an expert. He used a Ruby wheel (Not exactly pink) and I bought one. If I recollect it is 100 Grit Soft. Absolutally magnificant, cool sharpening and produces a good edge.
Hope this helps.

IMHO it's all a relative thing.

For cost, availability and versatility I still recommend a newby turner to start with a white wheel. Once they have all the various techniques involved with sharpening under control then start experimenting with other types of wheel. If they notice an improvement, then fine. If not, then why bother persisting just 'cos it's "technically better?"

I've tried several types and personally I see little real difference when it comes to sharpening turning tools. I'm not sure whether this is because it's what I'm used to, or whether it's because I'm only interested in a quick two second pass to get back to the job at hand: turning! IMHO, any longer than that and you're doing something wrong unless you're deliberately reshaping the profile.

Come to that, I believe that how much steel is lost per grind depends more on the quality of steel used in the tool (and my tools are a very mixed bag) than the wheel colour. Assuming they're all equal grit, of course.

When sharpening knives, plane blades, etc. it's different... but the whole process is different then, anyway!

Originally Posted by QbnDusty

.. I bought myself a Jig. Namely a UNI-Jig 5 made in Australia and will grind/sharpen any turning tool. (At least what I own, which is all the normal ones) You can find it at http://www.unijigproducts.com.au/UniJig/unijig.htm.
....

That is the one I have, I thought they had stopped making them.
I only use it for my bowl & spindle gouges.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

.... why bother persisting just 'cos it's "technically better?"
.....because I'm only interested in a quick two second pass to get back to the job at hand: turning!

I'll second that!

True, but with say fingernail grinds on small gouges it isn't hard to colour the edge, so a good cool running wheel helps.

Dipping in water is not sposed to be good for the microcrystaline structure of HSS (I can spell it, I think! but don't ask me what it means).

Originally Posted by rsser

microcrystaline structure of HSS (I can spell it, I think! but don't ask me what it means).

Little crystals????
I think it would pertain to the structure of the honeycomb that you see when a piece of metal has fractured, under the microscope it comprises of this fine honeycomb structure and I imagine it may weaken when subjected to certain stresses be it mechanical or heat (cold).

Yep dipping HSS in water for cooling is bad form unless it isn't that hot anyway.
Any rapid cooling of HSS isn't suposed to be good.

cheers

Originally Posted by soundman

Yep dipping HSS in water for cooling is bad form unless it isn't that hot anyway.
Any rapid cooling of HSS isn't suposed to be good.

cheers

Ooooooops!



Now I have to change my habits when reshaping HSS stuff - bugga!

Originally Posted by soundman

Yep dipping HSS in water for cooling is bad form unless it isn't that hot anyway.
Any rapid cooling of HSS isn't suposed to be good.

Try not to let the tool get too hot in the first place (if you can). I've now developed a light touch but it has taken a lot of practice.