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4th September 2013, 02:29 AM #1Retired
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EEE/shellawax vs organoil hard burning vs NC
Following my brain melting learning from and seeing my mates (they didn't question my frazzled unkempt wild eyed look) I stepped up to the lathe today.
I did 10 lengths of the round-then-bead-cove exercise on 250mm lengths of 90mm pine. Cool. 155 to go... Like the karate kid.
Then, having done 3% of the task asked of me, I weakened and did two bowls. Skill level up already! Not great, but certainly far less crap than before.
I "finished" them off in EEE and then Shellawax. That was after using the new spinner sander douverlacky from Jim Carrolls shop. Went through the paper up to 400. Jim sells nice paper, that double dot stuff really does a very good job.
SWMBO was very pleased. My earlier examples were promptly sent back with a "redo these please". They came BACK from the pool room...such disappointment.
Obviously shellawax has a learning curve to use. My first efforts produced "skids" and thick bits, sort of like wax buildups. Easy enough to scratch off with a fingernail, but still, something I need to learn to avoid.
Has anyone any opinions on shellawax VS Organoil Hard Burnishing as a final finish? I'm impressed by both, they both make my amateur efforts look very non-crap.
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4th September 2013, 05:27 AM #2
EEE/Shellawax, less is more.
Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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4th September 2013, 07:47 AM #3
EEE/shellawax vs organoil hard burning vs NC all have a place. Try putting Shellawax on a fine & delicate spindle. I use all three and love wet slurry sanding with Organoil on bowls, Shellawax on toys and general production items, 30% NC for my laminated spin tops, lin lam bowls and show items. Astradot sandpaper - none better in my opinion.
You would agree though that a few hours with someone like cuts years of the trial & error learning.
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4th September 2013, 09:20 AM #4Retired
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Have a look here Evan. Keep practicing.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/usi...llawax-131234/
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4th September 2013, 09:31 AM #5
Looks like you have sound advice grass hopper
would like to see pics
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4th September 2013, 10:21 AM #6
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4th September 2013, 12:32 PM #7
I use a couple of coats of Rustins danish oil. Then apply Traditional wax a day or two later. I guess its not as instant as the other things. But it is a beautiful result. And you can put more wax on later if you need to. Won a prize with it so must be ok. You can only shellwax things that are in one piece. If you a gluing finials on you need something to apply after. And I am a bit underwelmed by NC laquer. I reckon it looks and feels like plastic. Maybe you can't tell in a pic. But you can tell when you touch it.
anne-maria.
Tea Lady
(White with none)
Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.
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4th September 2013, 02:08 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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4th September 2013, 02:30 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Shellawax etc
I think they are both good products. Strange as it seems I have found that the serviettes
at Maccas (free of course to the discerning diner) are terrific for putting on EEE & shellawax,
but more importantly, just excellent for burnishing. Fold a couple of times and hold firmly on
piece. Dont forget, throw them in a bucket of water when you finish, otherwise they could
spontaneously combust, if left around. Then to garbo. Drillit.
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8th September 2013, 04:35 PM #10Hewer of wood
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FWIW, NC lacquer for turners manually applied needs to be well diluted with thinners.
1:2 is a starting point. Wipe off excess immediately with clean rag or HD paper towel and then cut back with 0000 steel wool.Cheers, Ern
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