Thread: Ern & Co - where does it all end?

Originally Posted by jefferson

give me some idea where it all ends.

It doesnt

Only buy what you need when you need.

It is great to have all the tools but save money for the ones you really need.

So where are the photos of you and Ern.

I put this one is the wrong section, never mind.

Ern has gone AWOL, too much time in the snow. He'll pay next visit. I've got some timber set aside for his efforts too.

And thanks Jim for letting me know that I should buy when needed. That seems to be every second week at the moment!

Jeff

Originally Posted by jefferson

I put this one is the wrong section, never mind.

Not anymore

As Gra says, it is never ending

And what Jim said , buy as you need them, that's what I do

Hi Jeff as Jim says when you need it. BUT as you are finding out about once a fortnite is when you need it . I find though that you can get by without going overboard . it would be nice to have one of each but the hip pocket nerve is likely to start playing up after a while so just have a long hard look at DO I Really NEED IT REALLY BAD . if yes then hey IT AINT STOPPED YET . I go to the wood work show on a small scooter Thats my budget master When I cant put anymore on then it's home time . anyway Jeff it's a great pastime so enjoy it Reards WW. Wally

What they all said. But one way of slowing down the cash flow is to make some of your tools and accessories: e.g. Longworth chuck for finishing the bottom of bowls, a steady rest or two or three, etc.

And you can slow down the rate of infection by concentrating on a particular product, such as boxes, bowls for a while, candlesticks, vases, weed pots, and such; and practise, practise, practise until you're halfway satisfied with your skill or become bored (Heaven forbid!). Works for me, except the last phase.

Joe

Hi Jefferson...

You are well and truly s*****d!!!

It's a never ending battle, albeit a most pleasant one, in acquiring "tools for turning" (although my dearest SWMBO, better half doesn't think so).

Remember, the very first time a new tool's edge hits the grinding wheel it's shot, kaput, finished, gone!!!! (I'll be glad to send you my address where you can send those useless tools)

Ed

Ed,

Your comment that a tool is shot after the first grind is interesting. When I visited , he said much the same thing - the first couple of mill of a new tool won't hold an edge for long. Is that true? I've noticed that the tools I've re-sharpened a few time seem to be getting better. They seem sharper and stay that way longer.

Or is it just me? Maybe my sharpening technique is improving.

Just been re-reading one of the Raffan books.... Seems I need a sheer scraper.

Jeff

Jefferson...

Sounds like your friend has been mis-informed for sure....it's the very first 1/100th of a mil where all the damage takes place, you really don't have to wait for a couple of mils!!! It also sounds like gets his turning tools like I do!

Richard Raffan counts on people to re-read his book just for the express purpose to sell more sheer scrapers...I've banned his books & videos from my home!!!!!

Ed

need = want = need = want = need = want = need = want = need

where's that P&N cattledog, Jim's website, vermec's website etc

... sorry dear I had to have it to make you this pretty thingy.

's quite right I've found. The first 1/8 should be ground off. And at the other end you'll find the tempering gone. Typically with coil tempering only 4 - 5" of the tool is hardened.

All good advice above.

We can get addicted to buying tools - I tend to do it when I can't turn - but start with a basic kit and then as advised above work out what lights your fire and go from there.

Another point, already noted by Joe, is that there is always more than one way of skinning a cat. So you saw me use a heavy square end scraper. Here are some alternatives and apologies for not mentioning them at the time: regrind a scraper or skew that you already have but don't use; get an old electric planer blade and cut and grind it to a tear-drop or square shape then mount on a rod of mild steel; or buy a tear-drop scraper tip like the Munro and mount it. A little more exxy but more flexible: get a tool like the Sorby multi-tip, which gives you a scraper tip (tho not of esp. good steel) and a couple of hollowing toothpicks mounted on a rather good shaft/handle combo.

You can also scrape with a skew with a freshly raised burr, or with the wings of a fingernail ground gouge though that takes a steady hand to avoid corduroy.

Glad you enjoyed our session Jeff; I did too. Currently sussing out when I can drop in again to help with the hollowing.

Buying when you need it only works if you have good foresight. Me, sure as eggs, as soon as I need it, it will be a Sunday or before a WWW show and I can't get it. So for me, it is when I have the money.

Ad Infinitum..............


But on the other hand...below are some pics of a few tools you can easily make your self.

The scraper blade can made out of a few things ie cut the end of a softened file and drill it out to fit your tool stock. In this instance its a piece of HSS saw blade [ pics 1&3 ], burnt the hole in it with the arc welder............yeah! rough, I know.. but I was in a hurry to get the scraper up and running.

The smaller tips are Tnungsten Carbide, sliver soldered and ground up later.

I'll bring up a couple of home made tools for hollowing tomorrow Jeff. Oh, and also one that'll have the missus' eyebrow raised again

I won't raise other eyebrows by wearing the normal XC clobber: black tights, red boots, gold and brown thermal top, black vest. For turning: Blunnies, black jeans, flannel shirt and black fleece.

What are other turners wearing?