Thread: Why grip a spigot?

Just found the thread started by rsser 23/3/10. The contributors describe the method I use perfectly. I too, cut the rebate with the skew (my favourite tool) at an angle and about 5mm deep. The only failure I have had with this method was when I made the collar too narrow on a fairly soft piece and it broke on tightening.

Bruce,
A good question and I would also be interested in others views. I mostly use the expansion mode as it saves waste timber and I have found it easier to to line up again if it gets rechucked later. I have had the odd split grain happen due to the expansion mode but I am aware of the risk now so leave enough wood around the base to hold things secure. These days for bowls and platters I mostly use the chuck that came with my Leady lathe and it only expands anyway.
Regards
John

I always expand into a recess when turning green wood.
Green wood spigots are very weak and break off easily.
When using a recess if I have a problem it can be re-chucked.

I often use a Forstner style bit to drill a recess and find it is normally pretty consistent when re-chucking, also if timber is scarce for a spigot I glue on a pre-turned one centreing it up with the tail stock and tooling it to ensure true alignment....just a few tips that I find works for me.

well I'll be the exception. I use spigots exclusively on bowls and always in contraction never expansion and this includes green and dry blanks. I have a face plate of which rarely if ever use.

I prefer to use a screw chuck to get me started along with the tailstock, turn the out side to finish with a foot and a spigot. Reverse the bowl and do the inside, finally removing the spigot on a Longworth chuck or donut chuck.

The few times that I have tried using expansion mode grip I have ended up with pieces of part turned bowl all over the shop, including one time where it smashed two fluro tubes.

Maybe it is just me...

The grip that a 4 jaw chuck provides in the contraction mode is stronger than
expansion. For large pieces and off balance work I prefer to use a spigot.
Use of the the recess / expansion method can create a nice stable base for some vessels.
I had a spigot break off once and after I did the wash I went to a recess because the piece was already rough turned and there wasn't enough stock left at the bottom to make another spigot.
It's good to have options .

Hughie,
I agree with the contraction way too, but I try and use my face plates if possible. This guarantees that they very rarely come off.

I use chucks in contraction mode mainly. Sometimes for small >100mm blanks I'll put in a recess and use in expanding mode. The spigot only needs to be between 3 - 10mm in depth, depending on the blank size and composition . . .

I do use screw chucks (Woodfast and a bespoke 25mm version) and faceplates from 82mm to 200mm. It all depends on the type of wood, it's condition and the phase of the moon . . . whether I feel brave or it's kevlar body armour time from some punky Redgum burl action

Hi All,
I agree with Hughie & Ticklemedusa, that I also have only ever used the Spigot, in the Contraction Mode, I mainly use the 35mm. S/Jaws, but have 45 & Pinocchio Jaws as well. Have just purchased another Black Nova Chuck, & it had 100mm. Jaws .
I also use my 3 Jacobs Chucks & if I get the right size of Wood, I Insert it in The Heads #2 Morse Taper, with the Tail Stock, but most of the work I do, I don't use the T / Stock. I mostly use 3000RPM.
Then again, I don't turn Bowls. Haven't used a Faceplate for at least 7 yrs.

Sounds like there is not much difference really, other than personal opinion/habit. I guess I will just keep doing what I have been to date.

Turned a tiger myrtle bowl today - love that coloured/patterned Tassie wood!

I prefer a recess when turning face grain and a spigot with long grain.
A spigot on face grain can crush and tear the spigot away and, conversely, a recess in long grain can spread the grain apart.

Hmmm... I tend to use a mix of both styles.

If the blank has enough material I'll almost invariably mount with a spigot. If only because it's inherently a much safer method.

It's only when there's insufficient material for a spigot that I'll use expansion mode... and even then it depends a lot on the timber blank.

Any checking, resin lines or even if the species is just known for weak grain, and I'll glue on a waste block for either spigot or faceplate.

I drill a hole with a forstner bit, expand hte chuck in that, turn the back (including a spigot), then grip in compression to do the inside. Having recently bought bowl jaws, I've started turning out the jaw marks on the spigot to leave a neat foot. I reckon I've had more bowls slip on the spigot than in a recess.