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Thread: hot glue
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28th October 2012, 09:28 AM #1
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hot glue
hey all ive noticed in some youtube videos that ppl use hot glue to glue a scrap bit of wood to the bottom of a bowl blank. just wondering if this is strong enough to do so and if no what is and is ther any special way to do this, as i m now to this i dont really want a peice of wood flying off my lathe as i am turning it
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28th October 2012 09:28 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th October 2012, 10:14 AM #2
Mat, good question I have in the past worked allot with hot melt glues in the packaging industry and have yet to use it in turning. My only reservation with using it is that I dont know what type is on offer. I say this because there are many different types out there each with it particular aspect or strength.
Some swear by it, I am not wholly confident given the way I turn that, thats the way for me to go. So I rely on other methods and when it comes to blocks etc I glue them on with PVA . I do this from time to time with scraps and do several blanks at once, other wise the usual methods chucks, steb centres, screw chucks and the like.Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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28th October 2012, 10:37 AM #3
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atm screw the blank to the face plate and cut a tennon at the bottom of the peice but would love to try something else to get a bit more bowl out of my wood. ive heard about pvc glue might try that and see how it goes
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28th October 2012, 12:10 PM #4
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I have been using hot glue on smaller pieces the largest being 6"x4" piece of camphour all with no problems . I didnt know there were different types of hot glues so I must have lucked out with the one I'm using
Some people are like slinkies - not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs .
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28th October 2012, 12:37 PM #5
Look up turners like Terry Scott from NZ or Vaughan Richmond WA on Google. They use hot melt glue a lot. One tip if you use hot melt always glue wood to wood not wood to a metal face plate, be carefull in how far you reduce the surface area of the hot melt glue bond surface & doing anything that may generate heat near the glued surfaces. Can have some interesting moments when the glue softens or shears. I have been trialing the Bosch hot melt glue, seems OK. I use it for bonding small (75mm) laminated bowl blanks to waste block spiggots which are then held in a chuck. May seem a strange process but the laminated blanks have a lot of time invested in them so you don’t waste them.
Tecbond Glue Sticks | Glue for Glue Guns | GlueGunsDirect.com
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28th October 2012, 12:50 PM #6
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There was a guy at the WWW show in Melb.that used super glue seemed to work ok,nothing came loose while i was there.
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28th October 2012, 12:51 PM #7
I do a bit of laminating of 300mm plus diameter bowls and use aquadhere. I do not use paper in the joint as I have had too many fail. I screw a waste block to the face plate and hollow it out to leave a 10 - 12mm wide rim. Something like a small bowl. This rim is made the same outside diameter as of the base of the bowl and the two are glued together using the lathe as a press. I separate them with a hand saw and finish off the bowl bottom by hand.
JimSometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...
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28th October 2012, 12:56 PM #8
Another issue with hot melt is keeping the glue hot enough for a good bond. I use the gun to spread the glue then an electric heat gun (paint stripper type) to remelt the glue before bonding together. Brendan Stemp uses hot melt on very large surfaces as does Terry Scott.
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28th October 2012, 01:07 PM #9
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Some tips using hot melt glue that Mr Wraight gave me:
The timber must be warm. A Melbourne thing in winter.
If doing a full circle of glue, leave an air gap for the air to escape and the glue to compress.
I use it occasionally for some jobs.
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28th October 2012, 02:42 PM #10
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thanks all ill take it ll on board
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28th October 2012, 04:58 PM #11
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I use it frequently to glue tennons on . Iv'e got one on the lathe at the moment about 260mm diam. The only failure Iv'e had, is when I sanded the base of the bowl blank before I glued the tennon on . Maybe the glue needs a bit of a key.I warm up the blank and tennon in a microwave oven before glueing which gives a bit more working time for assembly and I usually put the finished bowl back in the microwave to remove the tennon .
Having said this, you have to be sensible about it. A couple of days ago, I was coreing out a very hard coolabah blank .In this case I glued on a 100mm tennon about 25mm thick using Titebond 3 . I managed to snap the tennon twice but I had just enough wood left to cut a new tennon to remount and got there on the third attempt . I rather doubt that hotmelt would have held on.
Ted
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28th October 2012, 06:34 PM #12The timber must be warm. A Melbourne thing in winter.
If doing a full circle of glue, leave an air gap for the air to escape and the glue to compress.
.Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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28th October 2012, 06:58 PM #13
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I have used both hot melt glue and double sided tape for small pieces you just need to remember not to get to heavy handed with the cut.
Regards Rod.
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28th October 2012, 06:58 PM #14
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yeah i might have to get someone to show me one day im just a bit worried that it will fly off the lathe had that happen once when i first started
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28th October 2012, 07:45 PM #15
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The yellow hotmelt glue loves Huon Pine.
It usually delaminates the Huon Pine if you try to remove it cold.
It must be a marriage made in heaven, ment to last forever.
Cheers
TimSome days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't give a stuff so I don't turn at all.
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