Sanding technique

**OGYT** · 5th April 2009, 05:10 AM

When I sand soft wood, I never skip a grit except 240, because it always seems to show up a bit later. I keep the following grits on hand. 80,l00,120,150,180,220,280.320,400,0000steel wool,600, and brownpaper sack. Reversing the lathe between grits, and sanding with the grain before going to the next finer grit. Light pressure, low rpm, and being careful will help to keep the "moguls" from appearing. An old furniture maker told me..."Let the sandpaper do it's work... don't force it."
I have Micromesh pads also, but don't use them on anything other than pens.

**Grumpy John** · 5th April 2009, 07:40 AM

Thanks for getting things back on topic Al. I'm not too sure about using steel wool after reading this thread.

**Cliff Rogers** · 5th April 2009, 10:02 AM

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

I'll have to send you a piece of raintree.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Yes please!

I'll dig something up & PM you for an address.

**NeilS** · 5th April 2009, 11:42 AM

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

I also have 150 in that gap but I now try to use a very fine shear scrape so I can start at 180 or 240.

I also have #150 and also spend a lot of time shear scraping so that I can start higher, BUT.....

**bellyup** · 5th April 2009, 01:42 PM

I think I can see your problem, you're becoming distracted and not concentrating - she is in the bottom corner of photo #7!!

**Grumpy John** · 5th April 2009, 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by bellyup

I think I can see your problem, you're becoming distracted and not concentrating - she is in the bottom corner of photo #7!!

I wish it were that easy

.

**Skew ChiDAMN!!** · 5th April 2009, 05:43 PM

I still recommend stopping the lathe and hand-sanding along the grain between each grit change. It should only take a couple of passes.

If you run your finger across the grain and can feel the hard-grain (ie. the start of corrugations,) simply take a bit of extra time sanding those along the grain, with a bit of sandpaper wrapped around the tip of your finger.

At the lower grits it doesn't really matter if you sand the hard-grain a bit too much, and form a minor depression, as the next grit (with the lathe running) will flatten the softer wood quickly.

But it's a different story at higher grits, where the paper is "polishing" the wood rather than shaping... then you gotta take great care to keep the surface flat.

BTW, I think you're right about it being Oregon. It's rather pale, most Oregon I've seen is more pink/orange/yellow. But it does have a lot of colour variation and that grain is certainly right.

**wm460** · 5th April 2009, 08:34 PM

Originally Posted by bellyup

I think I can see your problem, you're becoming distracted and not concentrating - she is in the bottom corner of photo #7!!

**Ed Reiss** · 6th April 2009, 12:10 PM

John, the solution is simple...keep the paper moving and don't bear down on it. Took me a few years to figure that one out and it works !!!

Give it a go, I think you'll be surprised.

**eisbaer** · 6th April 2009, 03:37 PM

i agree with what's been said. My usual process with woods like this (raintree being the best and most painful example) is shear scraping, sanding sealer and hand sanding. Also helps to really scrutinise between grits with a bright light and a very close examination to make sure you're getting rid of scratches at each step.

I use a small led torch to check now as my workspace hasn't got the best lighting. Wiping down between grits is a must also to avoid more scratches from the sawdust. Hope that helps

**Grumpy John** · 10th April 2009, 01:07 PM

A big thank you to Skew who was kind enough to run me through his sanding technique personally. The wet sanding worked a treat BTW.

Thread: Sanding technique

Thread Tools

Search Thread

Similar Threads

some questions on technique

Spraying technique

Turning technique

Dovetail technique?

Obscure Technique???

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions