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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
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    2,577

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    Thanks, Hickory. I like the set screws idea as it provides a bit of adjustability. Theoretically you can get better headstock to tailstock alignment at any point along the bed because you can make those small adjustments.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
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    2,577

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    I tried the setscrews idea last night. I found that the screws sat a little loose in the tapped holes. The setscrews are about 6 or 7mm long. They are all I had and what I found was that I would get the alignment right for the widest part of the bed but as soon as I moved them to where the rails were narrow, the screws would be pushed in and the tailstock would have the slop again. I am now faced with the prospect of filing the rails down as Shorty did. It's mainly in the middle and I was thinking of using some rough grit wet and dry. Oh well here go another few hours.....

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Berwick, Melbourne
    Age
    64
    Posts
    542

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger View Post
    I tried the setscrews idea last night. I found that the screws sat a little loose in the tapped holes. The setscrews are about 6 or 7mm long. They are all I had and what I found was that I would get the alignment right for the widest part of the bed but as soon as I moved them to where the rails were narrow, the screws would be pushed in and the tailstock would have the slop again. I am now faced with the prospect of filing the rails down as Shorty did. It's mainly in the middle and I was thinking of using some rough grit wet and dry. Oh well here go another few hours.....

    I told you so

    Just make sure you use a length of steel as guide and not just file away at what looks like high spots ( if that makes sense) otherwise you bed will end up with a "S" bend in it.

    Cheers
    Shorty
    ________________________________________
    Cheers
    Shorty

    If I can't turn it I'll burn it

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