Thin Parting tool from Planer blade

**Hickory** · 28th July 2006, 04:35 AM

I was wanting to make a thin Parting tool. I thought about using an old blade from my Saws-All (Recipitating saw) Had layed one aside to do just that when my "Round 2 It" gets here.... Well yesterday I got fed up with poor performance and loud noise with my planer and convenced myself that it was finally time for a change in blades. I have a Ridgid and the blade flip over (I had already flipped them once so they are both sides dull) Here is my thinking....

Why not use one of these blades to make a Parting tool. They are long and thin and HSS. Of course I will have to grind the edge off so that I dont slice my fingers off whilst on the lathe. I plan to use a Sharpie Pen and mark the shape and also mark a Tang to fit a handle and have my S-I-L grind to shape at his work (Machinist, he is suppose to be)

Anyone find fault with using a planer blade? They are throw-away blades and re-sharpening will only create more problems later on.

BTW There is no comparison to the difference new blades make. Quiter, smoother, faster. I think I stretched the old guys to the end. Still, aside from the nicks, the edge as a keen as most kitchen knives.

**hughie** · 28th July 2006, 09:55 AM

[Anyone find fault with using a planer blade? They are throw-away blades and re-sharpening will only create more problems later on.

Hickory,
Only draw back maybe that the blades are short in length and therefore limit the depth of cut. There is a possiblity of brittleness causing the blade to shatter if too much side pressure was applied. Not knowing the type of HSS, it is something to consider, but not great enough IMHO to stop going a head with the idea.

I am always on the look out for HSS like this to do the same thing. My planer has very short blades, just under 3" or 75mm. With a tang ground into it makes it useless for length.

If nothing else they will make good scrapers

hughie

**Bodgy** · 28th July 2006, 10:01 AM

I think Hughie's right, they're too short (the planer blades). I wouldn't chuck them, they are actually quite easy to sharpen yourself.

The reciprocationg saw blade soulds better. How thick is it?

Alternatively, use some of the offcut of the planer blade and weld on to make a tang, still only gives six inches tho.

**echnidna** · 28th July 2006, 10:27 AM

You need to heat treat them so they are not brittle or they might shatter while your hanging onto them while merrily making shavings.

**hughie** · 28th July 2006, 01:08 PM

Originally Posted by echnidna

You need to heat treat them so they are not brittle or they might shatter while your hanging onto them while merrily making shavings.

Heat treating, is OK but you will need some very good heating gear and control.
Most HSS has fairly tight temps requirements and triple tempering is generally required as well.
A quick search on google will bring up the info you need to have a go at it. If you do, use clean oil not second hand sump oil and make sure there is not water in it. Water and hardening do not agree with each other especially HSS.
hughie

**Hickory** · 28th July 2006, 01:32 PM

What kind of planer do you guys have? My planer knives are 14 Inches long. (13.5 inch planer with 1/4" tabs on each end.) I am talking Thickness Planer, You must be talking Joiner or hand plane(?) Perhaps:confused:

Will consider the Heat treatment of the edge, etc.

**Bodgy** · 28th July 2006, 02:21 PM

We all thought you were talking about a hand electric plane.

Ignore everything except the comments on heat treatment. To avoid de-hardening keep the cuts and the grind very gentle to not cook the blade, however HSS needs an awful to of abuse to get hot enough.

Do one for me too and post it over, in the interests of OZ US friendship.

**hughie** · 28th July 2006, 02:37 PM

Originally Posted by Hickory

What kind of planer do you guys have? My planer knives are 14 Inches long. (13.5 inch planer with 1/4" tabs on each end.) I am talking Thickness Planer, You must be talking Joiner or hand plane(?) Perhaps:confused:

Will consider the Heat treatment of the edge, etc.

Hickory, no worries, go for it. they will do just fine. Cut the tang and mount the handle. If they are 1/4" thick I would not be to worried about shattering, just take it steady. Beside heat treating something that long and slender is a real art to keep it straight. You have to take a leaf out of the Japanese sword makers manual. When they quench the blade its done edge first, not unlike a double hand over the head swing straight down.

**rsser** · 28th July 2006, 02:55 PM

Seen Guilio M down here use one he made out of a power hacksaw blade if I remember right. Thin and wide.

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