Thread: Timber suitability

Brianne

Much depends on how the intended recipients will use the knives. Yep, I know, for cutting cheese, but will they throw them in the dishwasher or leave them submersed in the kitchen sink?

I have made a number of kitchen knives now, but I have to stress to the people using them that they are only to be wiped clean with a damp cloth. With that proviso you can use just about anything.

The second consideration is how easily the timber is worked and exactly what tools you will be using. Some timbers "pick up" readily.

Thirdly are you chasing colour, figured grain or both?

I have used Spotted Gum, Tallow Wood, Gidgee, Hairy Oak and Bull oak for handles. The last two (Casuarina Oaks) with their tight and distinctive grain are the most dramatic. The Spotted Gum i get from NSW has a lovely subtle figure to it, but the QLD stuff is fairly bland. The Gidgee I used in conjunction with either the Tallowwood or Spotted Gum. The combination made for an interesting contrast.

I use cypress pine a lot for building, but I am not sure it would be good for this. It is very brittle.

As to suitability of your individual timbers I will let others comment. Sounds like an interesting project.

Regards
Paul

Bearing in mind Pauls comments above, cheese knife handles can be made from just about any timber.

I have even made then out of small branches from many different trees picked up from council pickups including
Olive, lemon, orange, pear, apple, apricot, grapefruit, Chinese Tallow, tea tree, bottle brush, Geraldton wax, Cape Lilac.
Scraps of timber picked from farms like old fence posts, and bits of Sandal wood.

I've found that Cypress Pine has a tendency to split over time... and there are a few others I'd take off the list for allergy/toxicity reasons.

Wood Databases' Toxicity List

Personally I've had no problems with any of the timbers listed and have at various times, used them for similar projects (except cocobolo and Tas Blackwood) but apparently others do have problems...

Most will work, but I would not use the Beefwood as it leeches goo forever. When I make them as the other posters have said, try and use a nicely figured timber.
Rgds,
Crocy.

Thanks for your comments guys.
I have madeBiro2.jpgFountain Pen2small.jpg a couple of fountain pens from the beefwood and it seems ok. I will be using Shellawax for the finish as I am not keen on super gloss finishes and it works well on the pens.
I have been making biros and fountain pens from 100 year old Gray Ironbark which was from a cross beam of the original Urangan Pier. Just completed the 100th biro and the 30th fountain pen. We just celebrated the Centenary of the Pier on March 3rd this year. The pens have sold like hot cakes being a Limited Edition.
Out local Council fotunately saved the original timber when they did restoration work . It is not easy to work as it is full of cracks etc. I swear there were sparks coming from my bandsaw resawing this stuff. Sharpened the chisels every 3rd pen.

I gather from this post and others you are not a stranger to woodworking, which is good. Frequently it seems that difficult timbers can be turned more easily than they can be planed or otherwise worked, but I feel sure you will sus that out fairly quickly.

Your pens look gorgeous. I have recently returned to using fountain pens. May I ask what your sets cost? I will look forward to seeing other items too.

Regards
Paul

One caution for woody things in contact with food... Watch out for woods with deep, cavernous pores... Especially if there is a chance of food mushing up into the pores, them being soaked in the sink, or run through the dishwasher.

For me - American oak (Quercus species) would be out. Too porous - especially red oak with its bottomless pores.

Next - things with strong smells that may leach out... Once again - Quercus oak is out (vinegary smell) as would be camphor... I just can't imagine the stink of Vicks vapo-rub flavored cheese. yuck.

I get my pen supplies from Timberbits here in Australia. Very good to deal with. The pen kits I have been using are B172 Fountain and D031 Biro. They also supply me with the Pen boxes which really look good.
The Fountain pen kits need a slight adjustment before assembly. You will need to run a Dremel or simialr tool around the inside diameter of the clip ring to enable the end cap to fit it otherwise there is a danger of it cocking over when being pressed into the sleeve and ruining your job. They also only take the cartridges, not the refillable unit. Pen sets cost $

75	D012	Deluxe Pressed Metal Velvet Pen Case	$3.30
50	D031	Australia Slimline Pen Kit	$2.80
26	B172	JB Fountain Pen - Gold	$6.00