Thread: another tool questions

It sounds like you need a new tool for that, Toni. I wouldn't turn with the handle (or the ferrule) on the tool rest as it gives you a lot less control and a bad catch can split the handle badly.

It might be worth your while to look around for couple of 12" lengths of 8mm square HSS rod,turning your own handles for them and then sharpen them to whatever profile you want... this makes for great scrapers. Of course, in a pinch you can make tools out of ordinary metal rods, big old screwdrivers (they even come with their own handles! ) etc, but then you'll be sharpening 'em every 30 seconds. Still, old screwdrivers have done the job for me more than a few times, when I had nothing else to hand.

Warning: making your own tools can be almost as addictive as turning!

Originally Posted by lubbing5cherubs

I got kits today and can play again.

(Mutter, mutter, rotten wench, mutter, rhubarb...)

yes i would like to know as well ,
2 nights ago i scraped out a wine cooler , 250mm deep 170 mm wide out of green African mahogany , at the moment it's in a coles bag with 3 small holes in it drying out (carnauba waxed on the out side),

i had to make a new carbide scraper bar 350mm long to get to the bottom of this peace ,and the bar was flexing and chattering like a "GMC lathe with a 300mm blank in it "

i was going to glue sand paper to choped up broomsticks to finnish off inside
but would like to hear a few suggestions

the pic below is the "Wine Cooler" aka (chuck a handle on it )" Octoberfest beer mug ", just needs copper hoop iron to make it look like a barrel
Battle scars and all , came out of chuck 3 times ( i blame the dinalink lathe not the operator ),once she's dry i'll clean her up

Thanks Skew. so I will just finish up it up at that depth them.

HEy Skew, I will think of you as I nicely turn a pen. I only got some slimlines but they are nice too..I got the greek band from froggie to do.
Toni

Originally Posted by lubbing5cherubs

HEy Skew, I will think of you as I nicely turn a pen. I only got some slimlines but they are nice too..I got the greek band from froggie to do.

I'm just jealous. I blew too much of my budget on Froggies more expensive pens instead of building up a stock of slimlines. They'll make great Chrissy pressies but slimlines would've done as well and I'd have more of 'em left to play with! [sigh]

Originally Posted by SawDustSniffer

2 nights ago i scraped out a wine cooler , 250mm deep 170 mm wide out of green African mahogany , at the moment it's in a coles bag with 3 small holes in it drying out (carnauba waxed on the out side),

It's looking good so far. Personally, I wouoldn't have used tailstock support, I'd have turned the bottom first then hotmelt glued a sacrificial stub for mounting in power-grip jaws...

i had to make a new carbide scraper bar 350mm long to get to the bottom of this peace ,and the bar was flexing and chattering like a "GMC lathe with a 300mm blank in it "

...and this is why I'd have mounted it that way. Without the centre support for the tailstock I'd be able to use one of my beefier tools. Thicker bar, more reach, less chatter.

i was going to glue sand paper to choped up broomsticks to finnish off inside but would like to hear a few suggestions

To do the bottom? That'd work... but I'd be inclined to pad it first. A bit of rubber folded over the end, or even a bit of thickish corrugated cardboard. Something with a bit of give, so the sandpaper can conform to the shape of the bottom.

so what tool are you using to shape the metal... grinder??
Toni

Yep. Sharpen 'em exactly the same as I would a new chisel.

Depending on the diameter of the hole you are digging, try a large diameter drill bit or a Forstner bit. Digs out most of the wood and leaves just a veneer to scrape or sand off.

Definately don't put the wood on the tool rest - you could go beyond the depth of the steel in the handle and it will snap off. You need a bowl gouge or skew shisel, or even a scraper (1/2 inch), but with a very long handle. Hold the handle as close to the ferrule as possible and use your forearm to brace the rest of the handle (ie the handle rests under your forearm). This will hold it pretty steady. Only shave lightly.

Have fun
Don

Originally Posted by Don Nethercott

Definately don't put the wood on the tool rest - you could go beyond the depth of the steel in the handle and it will snap off. You need a bowl gouge or skew shisel, or even a scraper (1/2 inch), but with a very long handle. Hold the handle as close to the ferrule as possible and use your forearm to brace the rest of the handle (ie the handle rests under your forearm). This will hold it pretty steady. Only shave lightly.

A skew chisel for deep hollowing a vase? :eek: OK, so maybe I've been guilty of it myself once or twice... but some things should never be discussed in public.

Agree with the rest though.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

It's looking good so far. Personally, I wouoldn't have used tailstock support, I'd have turned the bottom first then hotmelt glued a sacrificial stub for mounting in power-grip jaws...

yes i glued and screwed a 54mm jarra door lock hole (always save them from work ) to the bottom to hold in chuck and the pole in the middle is the tail stock mount , clamped the lathe down , 1st let go was the dinalink chuck undoing , second was the tailstop undoing , 3rd was my falt a catch , the bench walked about 2 feet , and the tool rest came undone about 5 times , its a crap lathe , will take joy in towing it to the tip behind the car when i purchase a "variable seed woodfast " or DVR early next year ( was gonna make my own but down loaded a video of the DVR ## SWEET} )

Originally Posted by skew ChiDAMN!!

To do the bottom? That'd work... but I'd be inclined to pad it first. A bit of rubber folded over the end, or even a bit of thickish corrugated cardboard. Something with a bit of give, so the sandpaper can conform to the shape of the bottom.

THANKS FOR THE TIP

Woops, and I haven't even been on the turps. I meant spindle gouge. However!! for taking off a small shaving where the sides are vertical, a skew chisel would work nicely. Works in a similar fashion to a square end scraper with the top edge just touched up (ie sharpened)

Don

Toni,
Get Hubbie or boyfriend to buy you a good hollowing tool. I have one made by Rolly Munroe, it's an absolute pleasure to use. I believe that the Vemec Hollower is good to.

Peter

hubby buy me anything for the lathe. THat be a first. the lathe was the last lot he bought and says now i keep him broke..LOL
bye
Toni

Originally Posted by SawDustSniffer

its a crap lathe , will take joy in towing it to the tip behind the car when i purchase a "variable seed woodfast " or DVR early next year ( was gonna make my own but down loaded a video of the DVR ## SWEET} )

THANKS FOR THE TIP

a new lathe is always a good idea but growing one from seed nomatter how variable it is, is going to take a long time

i like some of the home made hollowing tools i'll have to have a go it's a chair leg and a solid bar right? cheap and simple

Matt

Originally Posted by Twinnie

a new lathe is always a good idea but growing one from seed nomatter how variable it is, is going to take a long time

Must be a genetically modified Ironbark.