Thread: Boxmaking - saw advice

I use a Nobex Proman for almost all my manual cutting, and I couldn't be more happy. I have the 12-, 18- and 24-tpi blades, and I cut stock from 100*25 to 30*10.

The only limitation I've found is that the tables are too short to hold long, heavy stock accurately. I use one of the old Triton roller stands to hold long stock, and make a couple of test cuts until I get the height adjusted correctly.

I now do my mitres on the disc sander - there's a knack to it that's easier demonstrated than described - or the table saw. I used to do them by hand with a Japanese saw - takes a bit of practice but can be done, but there's always a bit of tension until it's succesfully done. I've seen a Nobex used successfully by a blind woodworker, but never tried it myself.

Originally Posted by Harry R

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One option would be a compound mitre saw, but should I get 10" or 12", should I get sliding or not? I've heard that saws with smaller blades and no sliding mechanisms are more accurate. What's your experience? What models do you use & what do you like about them?

I swear by my 12in makita SCMS. there is a thread somewhere (minus the pictures) on how I did the mitres timber laying flat and blade tilted, and then did the splines by tilting the blade through 90 degrees. Absolutely dead accurate.

One well known boxmaker has a Hitachi 10in SCMS and he swears by that.

Carry Pine

Hi Harry R , I usually use the Bosch GCM - SD Professional SCMS 10". Had to tweak the table to square when I first got it does a fantastic job now. Depends on the depth of the board as to whether I cut it lying flat or standing up against the fence. Also still use a good hand saw on occasion.

Regards
Pal

I use a table saw (contractor style) to cut mitres, and clean then up with a handplane and a donkey's ear shooting board (pics here). I'm very happy with the results I get with this technique. I've never used a SCMS or Nobex.

For cutting tenons, I either cut them by hand or with a Rocker tenoning jig on the tablesaw. Usually tune them with a plane afterwards (shoulder plane or #140).

Originally Posted by Ron Dunn

I use a Nobex Proman for almost all my manual cutting, and I couldn't be more happy. I have the 12-, 18- and 24-tpi blades, and I cut stock from 100*25 to 30*10.

The only limitation I've found is that the tables are too short to hold long, heavy stock accurately. I use one of the old Triton roller stands to hold long stock, and make a couple of test cuts until I get the height adjusted correctly.

The Nobex is a good saw. The table issue is no worse than most chop saws. A simple extension like a box made of MDF solves the heavy stock problem.

Thanks for the feedback I like the idea of using a SCMS for doing mitre & spline cuts. However I have been spending more time using hand tools so also like the donkey's ear shooting board idea. Mmm...looks like I'm back where I started

If you are box making, it is probably best to get a decent SCMS. 10" ones are quite good, buy a very good blade for it.
I've got the much maligned Ryobi with a Irwin Profesional 80 tooth TCT blade. Gets used everyday, and although some time is needed to set up cuts after changing angles(not required on the better machines).

A deadly accurate drop saw like the Makita would probably be the minimum required, because although the idea of cutting all boxes by hand is appealling, the reality of getting square results first time everytime with a drop saw or SCMS makes life much, much easier.

Cruzi (and others) what is it like cutting small pieces on an SCMS? Don't they get flung around by the saw? Do you ever feel nervous whilst cutting?

Always clamp whatever you are cutting, if you can't clamp it, don't cut it.

Can take a bit of fiddling around, but you can get reasonably small pieces done.

i always cut my mitres a bit longer , then i use one of those guillotines they sell for making picture frames, which cuts left and right and straight,it will cut material up to about 100ml maybe a little longer
no need to clamp, i just wrap elastic band round till dry because there is no gaps so sits flat and square,and the mitres are perfect. you could not fit a hair in the gap and you can get all sides even. i use on everything i make with mitres. especially boxes and picture frames. when you assemble there is no trying to squeeze the last joint together, and it is quick as,make my boxes with lids on then last cut off top . perfect fit.bob