Thread: horizontal cylinderical box

great wip looks very interesting thats what I wanted to for the box chalange last year but could not do cause my table saw blade does not tilt
I will follow this one with interest
Regards Michael

Looking really great John

Looks great... will follow this one with interest.

Try getting yourself one of these.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-A...Box-564900.htm

There are several types around, but that was the first result Google threw back at me. I have used it on a triton to get some very accurate angles in crosscut mode. When I did the box for the comp it was a (irregular) hexagon. Using this thing I got the angles perfect on it (about the only thing that was perfect, mind you!!)

Seriously worth every cent/penny!

Cheers,
Dave

Looking good John, another interesting project.

Jow
As I mentioned in a recent post by Derek Cohen, it's not good practice to rip with the blade tilted towards the fence, but I can see that your jig would allow good control over the work and allow you to easily feed the work. But have you considered ripping with the fence on the other side of the blade? This would be even safer and I think you would have even more control. When you are ripping the second bevel with the fence in this position the edge that is contacting the the fence is undercut and bears fully on the fence, the other way round the bevel has a chance of slipping under the fence making an inaccurate cut.

Cheers
Michael

There's a trick that can be used if you're having troubles getting the blade's angles "spot on" and the last piece of timber just won't fit without a gap no matter what you do:

First, cut 4 segment/staves a mm or two wider than the rest. When you glue up the cylinder, glue it up as two halves with these wider pieces as the "edges" of each half.

Once the glue has dried, you can scribe a line on the outside of each edge to indicate the thickness should have been, then offer up the piece to a linisher, sanding both edges flatly back to the scribed line at the same time. (A rasp/file held so it flattens both edges simultaneously will also work, but a linisher is sooo much quicker. )

Repeat with the other half.

A near perfect fit every time! And, done well, no-one will pick any discrepancy.

Thanks for all the comments and helpful tips. I am very happy to tell you that the tube went well this time, I put the item on to my bench sander and cleaned the outside edges up with a 60 grit belt and tidied it up with some 320 W & Dry.


Micd, your comments are valid, but my fence stripping jig clings to the table top and nothing seem to creep under as would do with the ali fence supplied with the saw.

Ozkaban, looks a handy tool, however I could kick myself, I forgot to make a template of the 11.25 blade tilt angle for another time.

Skew, I suspect that because my strips are only 17mm wide and not the traditional 75 mm staves, my discrepancy if there is one has not stood out.

Prepared some end disks using my small lathe (no chuck, so faces are a bit disfigured). I have not committed myself to gluing these to the ends at the moment, I would prefer a harder timber than these original cuts, so am going to pull my timber stocks out and see what else can be used. However the guys on the English forum have given me some clues how to cut the internal straight edges that are required to make a clean appearance inside.

Photographs below show the progress todate.

making end caps



showing end caps (trial run)



Showing base and lid portions (before fitting of any end caps)

Originally Posted by jow104

Skew, I suspect that because my strips are only 17mm wide and not the traditional 75 mm staves, my discrepancy if there is one has not stood out.

I suspect that it's more likely because you're more studious in setting the angles accurately in the first place... unlike those of us who work on the principle of "near enough is good enough."

Prepared some end disks using my small lathe (no chuck, so faces are a bit disfigured). I have not committed myself to gluing these to the ends at the moment, I would prefer a harder timber than these original cuts, so am going to pull my timber stocks out and see what else can be used.

Are you planning on butt-joining the ends (as they are now) or recessing them into the ends, so the strips run the full width of the box? The latter would, in my opinion, look better... but is a LOT of finicky work.

However the guys on the English forum have given me some clues how to cut the internal straight edges that are required to make a clean appearance inside.

[Ears perked!] Now that's one way of earning my undivided attention...

Skew, you have inspired me.
quote.... Are you planning on butt-joining the ends (as they are now) or recessing them into the ends, so the strips run the full width of the box? The latter would, in my opinion, look better... but is a LOT of finicky work.

Veneers from the same timbers making a 16 ray sunburst is getting my juices going.


In fact I would like to suggest that the members here make a box of similar design and have a friendly display or competition. Any size box, the construction I can assure you is quite basic.

I like the way this box is going.

It's looking fantastic.

Thinking of dropping the end caps and fitting a sunburst marquetry design and hopefully having flush ends.

So made a paper template,



managed to salvage the waste ends of strips (which are already machined)



resawing those waste strips on the bandsaw so they are now around 2.5mm thick.



Thinking I should have finished with 1 mm thickness

Never done any marquetry before so might be a few days before I am back

Fitted the two end closures using some 3mm ply which I intend to attempt some marquetry later.

How odd?

I posted this thread the 30th April 09

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=95432

Fine woodworking magazine article by Derek Cohen, (Perth) ? 2n May 2009

http://finewoodworking.taunton.com/i...ring-a-box-lid