Thread: How is this done?

At a guess, the lid & panel are assembled fairly tightly, then he used CNC router to shape the lid, then groove around the panel, again using CNC router.

G'day Alan,
Remember reading in an old ww magazine on how it was done, will dig out my collection and read up.
From memory a jig frame was used and a router. sounded reasonably easy to set up. Probably not to use though. will have a look and find it.
Catch ya
Andrew

Found it,
A frame was built with curved rails on top, The router is fitted to a board that then moved length ways and across the lid.
Then turned 90 deg and repeated.
Sorry about the description but that is how it is explained but with pics.

Hope this does not confuse too much.
Catch ya Andrew

Originally Posted by ravlord13

Found it,
A frame was built with curved rails on top, The router is fitted to a board that then moved length ways and across the lid.
Then turned 90 deg and repeated.
Sorry about the description but that is how it is explained but with pics.

Hope this does not confuse too much.
Catch ya Andrew

I know how the 'shape' is formed... it's the inset panel with the uniform spacing and issue of panel movement that I don't quite get. When I inset a panel, it is rarely that tight, in fear of movement and splitting.
Since the frame is solid, the panel MUST come from underneath...I wonder how it is 'fixed' into place, then covered inside the lid.
Someone suggested that he glues a veneer in the center, then uses a 1/16" router bit to 'frame' the veneer. But I don't know if a veneer would take the shape of his contoured lid.
How's about this: You rout out where the panel is...let's say 1/8 deep...then inset a figured panel that is 1/8" thick...glue it to the lid. Come back and rout a 1/16" x 1/8"deep groove around the panel. Would the lamination of the lid material and the panel cause a problem?

I make up huon pine panels with Myrtle burl inserts for some of my clocks and boxes.
I laminate them over thickness to allow for any missalignment while in the clamps then thickness and shape them to suit.
I have never routed as you suggest but I see that would work.
As I line all my boxes with velvet the interior is not a problem.
Andrew

From here

JDS Multi-Router. Joint making machine. Highly recommended for many joints and routing. Easy to tap holes in table for all sorts of jigging uses. I use a vacuum (venturi) clamp for holding lids to route out the recess for inset, for example. My Multi-Router has been going strong for over fifteen years.

Originally Posted by Cruzi

From here

Ooopss. It was right there. AND...it's $2965 (US)...that's alot of boxes to sell.

Yes, it's the magic of the JDS MultiRouter!

I've put a photo on my site that might help although although I don't have one of the lid blank routed out and ready for the inset.

http://www.hamiltonroberts.com/multi_router_setup.jpg

Basically though, it's simply setting the three axis' of the MultiRouter - depth along with vertical and horizontal travel. Then I trim the inset piece to width and length and, by hand on my disk sander, sand the corners to fit. I once attempted to make the inset fit using some sort of router based jigging but it ended up being much faster and actually safer to eyeball it. You get good at it after several hundred!

The lid blank is usually about 5/8" thick, the inset is never less than 1/2". A lid like, say, the "sculpted" needs to be 3/4" minimum.

After gluing the inset in, I rough shape the whole lid on the bandsaw (carefully!) and then start the long process of using my 6" x 48" belt sander (60 grit cross grain, 150 grit with grain) and then pad sanding to finish. The gap is actually more of a design element than trying to account for different expansion rates between the lid and the inset, although it does serve that function as well. Besides, it would be extremely difficult to make a perfect zero-clearance fit.

When I puchased my MultiRouter 15 years or so ago, it was US$1500. Not cheap but it is a terrific machine. Very smooth operation even after all these years. It's also what I use for our finger joints - can't be beat for that joint. I'm always finding things to use it for. I only wish it had greater travel. JDS will also make custom jig plates if needed.

Hope this answers your questions - feel free to ask more...

Thanks for the interest! I'll have to tell my Aussie friend and neighbor here in Boise, Idaho about this!
Michael Hamilton

Originally Posted by MichaelH

Yes, it's the magic of the JDS MultiRouter!

I've put a photo on my site that might help although although I don't have one of the lid blank routed out and ready for the inset.

http://www.hamiltonroberts.com/multi_router_setup.jpg

Basically though, it's simply setting the three axis' of the MultiRouter - depth along with vertical and horizontal travel. Then I trim the inset piece to width and length and, by hand on my disk sander, sand the corners to fit. I once attempted to make the inset fit using some sort of router based jigging but it ended up being much faster and actually safer to eyeball it. You get good at it after several hundred!

The lid blank is usually about 5/8" thick, the inset is never less than 1/2". A lid like, say, the "sculpted" needs to be 3/4" minimum.

After gluing the inset in, I rough shape the whole lid on the bandsaw (carefully!) and then start the long process of using my 6" x 48" belt sander (60 grit cross grain, 150 grit with grain) and then pad sanding to finish. The gap is actually more of a design element than trying to account for different expansion rates between the lid and the inset, although it does serve that function as well. Besides, it would be extremely difficult to make a perfect zero-clearance fit.

When I puchased my MultiRouter 15 years or so ago, it was US$1500. Not cheap but it is a terrific machine. Very smooth operation even after all these years. It's also what I use for our finger joints - can't be beat for that joint. I'm always finding things to use it for. I only wish it had greater travel. JDS will also make custom jig plates if needed.

Hope this answers your questions - feel free to ask more...

Thanks for the interest! I'll have to tell my Aussie friend and neighbor here in Boise, Idaho about this!
Michael Hamilton

Thank you...you are a gentleman for sharing this with us. All questions, answered. Alan