Thread: How do I laminate veneer to create curves?

You should alternate the grain, as this will make it very stable and it won't be affected by differential expansion with humidity changes. However, if you are going to use it as a floating panel it probably won't matter if you don't.
I'd use an epoxy such as techniglue. For something the size of a box, springback will probably be negligible, especially if it's only a gentle curve, you use 5 veneers and are vacuum moulding. The trick is to do the lamination, then cut everything else to fit the curve you get.
Don't forget that you can use your nice, expensive veneers on the outside and cheaper plain ones inside.

Not wishing to disagree with you, but for a jewelery box I'd make the top from solid and curve it with a hand plane. The wood "wasted" would be negligible.

as to laminating, I'd
• align the veneers with the grain all running in the same direction
• use PVC or Titebond 3 (i think this is the one with the longer open time) -- you should be able to layup the veneers within the open time of either glue
• not worry too much about spring back but build the box to fit the curve taht results -- besides if your curve is gentle and you use 5 or more layers of veneer, springback will be negligible

Thank you Gentlemen for the quick response. I will be going with the veneer laminating for two reasons: 1. I want the experience of doing it 2. I really want precise curves and do not trust my hand work.
*So, I DO NOT have to alternate the grain? I am going about 5 layers. Alternating creates more issues with getting the veneer as wide as the piece is wide (understand?). I have a bunch of long, narrow veneers that I want to use, but nothing as wide as the top, so with them all in the same direction, it would be easier.
*Can I use different species of woods? ie: maple core with walnut top and bottom? I have a bunch of poplar and maple to get rid of, would be nice to use that as core and my fancy burls/ tigers as the 'show sides'.
*How does Titebond respond to vacuum pressing? Seems that the short time it's in the press is not sufficent to cure. The epoxy is darn messy.
Alex...took a look at your 'stuff'. Very impressive. Did you make your Surprise Boxes and curl handles by lamenating veneers?

Originally Posted by AlanS

Thank you Gentlemen for the quick response. I will be going with the veneer laminating for two reasons: 1. I want the experience of doing it 2. I really want precise curves and do not trust my hand work.
*So, I DO NOT have to alternate the grain? I am going about 5 layers. Alternating creates more issues with getting the veneer as wide as the piece is wide (understand?). I have a bunch of long, narrow veneers that I want to use, but nothing as wide as the top, so with them all in the same direction, it would be easier.
*Can I use different species of woods? ie: maple core with walnut top and bottom? I have a bunch of poplar and maple to get rid of, would be nice to use that as core and my fancy burls/ tigers as the 'show sides'.
*How does Titebond respond to vacuum pressing? Seems that the short time it's in the press is not sufficent to cure. The epoxy is darn messy.
Alex...took a look at your 'stuff'. Very impressive. Did you make your Surprise Boxes and curl handles by lamenating veneers?

Alan
forgive me, but if you don't trust your hand work how will you shape the former?

you can use different species in the core

narrow stock might create some challenges in terms of edge jointing so that there's no gaps in the edge -- for the show surfaces, jointing the edge with a hand plane (use a shooting guide top and bottom) and holding the veneer tightly together with quality painters' tape works. Put the tape on the show surface and peel it off after it come out of the press

leave the assembly in the vac press till the glue has fully cured
alternatively use a male and female former and clamps

Originally Posted by ian

Alan
forgive me, but if you don't trust your hand work how will you shape the former?

you can use different species in the core

narrow stock might create some challenges in terms of edge jointing so that there's no gaps in the edge -- for the show surfaces, jointing the edge with a hand plane (use a shooting guide top and bottom) and holding the veneer tightly together with quality painters' tape works. Put the tape on the show surface and peel it off after it come out of the press

leave the assembly in the vac press till the glue has fully cured
alternatively use a male and female former and clamps

For the former, I will use a router...route a large circle, only use part of the arc...then take that template, and with a guided bit, cut a number of thicker templates identical to the original. Glue those together...voila, a wide form with a gentle curve.

Is the curve going to be a floating panel enclosed in a frame, or is it going to be part of the carcass? If it's the former, it's not necessary to alternate the grain, but if it's he latter, you will need to alternate them, otherwise it will expand and contract with changes in humidity, and eventually glue joints will fail.
You can use different types of timber for the inner and outer veneers. Also, don't forget that you can lie the thin veneers side by side if necessary to achieve the full length of the job.

Originally Posted by AlanS

Did you make your Surprise Boxes and curl handles by lamenating veneers?

Yes, done with a male former and tinplate strap outside.