Multiplex box with alu feet

**detfall** · 11th July 2007, 04:47 AM

As a long time silent viewer, I decided that it is time to introduce myself. My name is Detlef Fallisch. I am a woodworker from Germany. I live nearby Duesseldorf and the famous Neanderthal http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neanderthal%2C_Germany is about 10 minutes to walk.

I real live I earn my money with IT consulting (IBMs AS/400 or Iseries) but in my free time I like to build boxes. During the recent month I learned to draw with Googles SketchUp program. So I started my last box with a sketchup drawing.

Here is my first draft http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B2147.jpg in sketchup. After reading in the sketchup forum, that you can put an individuell skin to the surface of your model, I tried to "paint" my box with a picture of the wood from which I wanted to build my box.

This was the result of taking a photo of my wood and applying the image to the box model http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B2139.jpg in sketchup. Here is the same box in a frontview. http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B2142.jpg or viewing from the side. http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B2145.jpg

Here a last view from the model with an open lid. http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B2144.jpg

After seeing my virtual box in sketchup, I started to build the box. Because I was not sure if glueing anodized aluminium to wood would hold, I decided not to spoil my wood and used multiplex in place of my real wood. Some trials of glueing the anodized alu together with multiplex failed. Finally I tried Gorilla glue (One touch glue) which I found in my workshop. This worked.

For the lid I tried for the first time to work with veneer. From another woodworker I had got a box full of different veneers. So I used Makassar ebony for the lid. The handle was made by sandwiching cherrywood with aluminium.

The inlay stripes you see at the side of the lid are shopped in Spain. The green inlays are made of small veneer stripes. For the inlays at the box sides I routed a small groove in the sides so that the inlay surface and the rest of the side are at the same level.

Here is the ready box in the frontview http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B2130.jpg The same box in a topview without the lid http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B2134.jpg
and with the lid http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B2133.jpg Here you can view the details of the handle http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B2135.jpg
Two other views shows how near you can come with your virtual model to the reality http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B2136.jpg http://hw.roesch.de/Bilder/B2137.jpg

Hope you like the pictures. All reviews and comments are welcome.

Detlef

**Sculptured Box** · 11th July 2007, 08:29 AM

detfall

Welcome to the best box makers forum internationally.

You have produced a nice looking and functional box by blending your computer skills and woodworking skills, well done!

**zenwood** · 11th July 2007, 10:31 AM

Detlef: Fascinating glimpse of the process of converting a design to an actual object. I must look into applying those textures to Sektchup surfaces. Do you have a link to a tutorial that explains how to do that?

Anyone know if it's possible to plane aluminium?

**echnidna** · 11th July 2007, 10:43 AM

aluminium can be planed.
Even seen an ally head shaved in a thicknesser (not mine)

**Boxinator** · 11th July 2007, 02:56 PM

I wish I had your box building and sketchup skills! Nice work!

Corey

**AlexS** · 11th July 2007, 10:27 PM

Welcome Detfall. Thanks for posting the whole process, I found it interesting to see how another boxmaker develops a project - well done and a great result.

**detfall** · 12th July 2007, 04:02 AM

Originally Posted by zenwood

Do you have a link to a tutorial that explains how to do that?
.......
Anyone know if it's possible to plane aluminium?

Hi Zenwood,

here is a link to foto mapping in SketchUp. http:///www.sketchucation.com/tutorials/modeling/tnt/photomappingp1/index.htm

I am not quite sure if I understand your last question right. Do you mean by "...plane aluminium" to work on it with a hand planer or is it just the question how to make alu flat?

Difficult English for a German

For the handle I used a simple alu rod like in the attached picture. Because it was anodized too, I filed (rasped?) off the anodized protection. That made it easier to glue together with wood. The alu rod was sawn at the table saw.

Detlef

**zenwood** · 12th July 2007, 11:24 AM

Thanks for that link, Detlef.

When I used the words "to plane" I meant the verb: "to make flat with a hand-plane, with the purpose of making it flat". I asked because I noticed that the bottom of your handle pieces seem to have been slightly rounded. I assume this is because you worked them with some kind of sandpaper abrasive(?) Using a hand-plane would have ensured those surfaces were flat and would have mated nicely with the surface of the box lid.

**detfall** · 17th July 2007, 02:50 AM

Zenwood,

I have never heard it before that you can plane aluminium with a hand planer. But your hint is helpful. I will try it.

Can I send the ruined hand planer to your address in case it doesn't work

Detlef

**labolle** · 17th July 2007, 06:55 AM

Feel free to send all used and abused hand planes to me. I'll be happy to give them some tender loving care....

Though, as a technique for surfacing and flattening metal parts in the future, I'd be tempted to try sliding them over some sandpaper glued to glass like is used in the Scary Sharp System, after all we do use that to flatten the backs of chisels and the bottoms of planes.

Very cool box and design skills, by the way.

**Shedhand** · 18th July 2007, 09:12 PM

Willkommen Detlef. Outstanding work.

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