Thread: shopping list

Originally Posted by weisyboy

i am compiling a shopping list well more of a wish list to rtake to teh www show here in brisbane.

what brand and size chisels should i get for cuttign dovetails and finger joints?

Liegh Dovetail Jig- no need for chisels

what brand of hand planes? and sizes?

2nd Hand Stanleys, get some Hock or Academy Blades though, #110,#220, #3,#5, maybe a #7 or a #4 1/2 smoother.
You can buy a nice expensive LN plane or 2 but you are paying huge $$$ to get a tuned plane. eg a LN #7 is $780, a 2nd hand Stanley ($140) with a hock blade ($60) would cost you about 2 hours and $10 in materials to tune.

what type of saw? pullsaw or normal tennon saw?

SCMS, accuracy is everything.

what else shoul i get or will i need for making small boxes.

Bandsaw, clamps, router bits, sharpening system, etc,etc

i know these questions are ones that will be answerd on a matter of opinion and personal prefrence but i have no idea so give me a few pinters

Probably no help to you but thats what I use.

Liegh Dovetail Jig- no need for chisels

i dont want to use a router based dovetail jig and they are just soo expensive.

SCMS, accuracy is everything.

scms?

Bandsaw, clamps, router bits, sharpening system

i got alof them.

When it comes to dovetails and exotic timber, the Leigh jig saves money, very few mistakes get made. The other thing is, by the time you buy a good dovetail marker, a good saw and a good chisel the cost is much the same.

A SCMS is a Sliding Compound Mitre Saw.

Add to extras list a drill press and WASP

i have a drill press and a bench sander.

i saw thinking a saw for cutting dovetails etc.

Carl, for my dovetails I use a coping saw, Stubai Bench chisels, Veritas Dovetail markers and a pacer pencil. The Stubai chisels and Veritas Dovetail markers I brought as a spoil , so you do not have to have the name brands, I have a few chisels that I have got for next to nothing at garage sales and intend to modify to be Dovetail chisels, one day

Carl, you say you have plenty of clamps. Does that include corner clamps and some useful clamps as per Barry White's post?
IMHO you should rethink your opposition to dovetail jigs. True they are expensive but can't be beaten for accuracy and speed.

I found the jig posted by Derek Cohen of Perth for getting accurate shoulder lines both side of joint very useful if staying with handcut dovetails.

Handcut dovetails mean you can do your own thing, whereas many commercial jigs are very repetative with their dovetail spacings.

Originally Posted by jow104

I found the jig posted by Derek Cohen of Perth for getting accurate shoulder lines both side of joint very useful if staying with handcut dovetails.

Handcut dovetails mean you can do your own thing, whereas many commercial jigs are very repetative with their dovetail spacings.

Leigh jig has infinitly variable spacings and pin sizes, as well as allowing you to do half blinds and sliding dovetails, the adventurous can also do angled and inlayed dovetails as well as doing 1/4" finger joints, all straight out of the box.

As you can guess, really do like the Leigh jigs, so much so that there is 2 in workshop; a D1600 and a D4. Spent about 6 months with a fine tenon saw and chisels trying to do handcut ones before I bought them and never ever got even close to what the jigs can do.

Carl, you said you had a belt sander already, take a look at what the WASP can do especially on small or curved work before you dismiss it. One example is ease of belt changing.

Will climb off my soap box now, its not helping you get to where you want to be.

I found the jig posted by David Cohen of Perth for getting accurate shoulder lines both side of joint very useful if staying with handcut dovetails.

where can i find this jig?

i do love cuttig dovetails by hand using a router and jig just seams like cheating to me.

Carl, you said you had a belt sander already, take a look at what the WASP can do especially on small or curved work before you dismiss it. One example is ease of belt changing

i will have a nother look at teh wasp.
it only takes me 30 seconds to ahange and track the belt on my sander.

Will climb off my soap box now, its not helping you get to where you want to be

sure it is mate any help is good help.

I found the jig posted by Derek Cohen of Perth for getting accurate shoulder lines both side of joint very useful if staying with handcut dovetails.


where can i find this jig?

i do love cuttig dovetails by hand using a router and jig just seams like cheating to me.


I am sure Derek will be along (allow for time zone) and give you a link to his very useful jig, I use it myself for handcut tenons as well.

Originally Posted by jow104

I found the jig posted by Derek Cohen of Perth for getting accurate shoulder lines both side of joint very useful if staying with handcut dovetails.


where can i find this jig?

Would you be referring to these two, MK I and MK II?

Thanks DJ and DerekCohen, I had not seen MK2, must have been that long spell off the net when in Oz. last time.

All you need is the bandsaw

(I send the dvds off tomorrow, I swear)