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  1. #1
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    Default very simple question on basics

    Hi all,

    I've made a few boxes over the last couple of years, but I am self-taught and have never "learned" how to do it.

    My main problem comes with lining up the two halves of the box.

    In the past, I have gone two ways:
    1) create two boxes and join them later with a hinge (a base and a lid)
    this gives me issues as they never are quite the right size and perfect fit
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f87/ba...ing-box-81584/

    2) create one box as a base, and make an over-hanging lid.
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f87/ch...rst-one-86392/
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/pr...omsmen-104422/

    both these methods lead to me having to painstakingly line up the hinges by basically guess-work, as i usually put the hinges inside the box (obviously when it's open).

    my question to you all is:

    * can you make a box, then attach hinges to outside rear of box, then cut it with a saw? obviously then remove hinges for final sanding etc.
    it seems this would solve a lot of my problems, apart from the fact that the hinges would be on the outside of the box (yuck!).

    i'm sure i'm doing the basics wrong here
    thanks guys.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    There's a knack to it. I usually make one box - lid & base combined - then separate them on the T/S. Cut them almost all the way through on the T?S, then cut the last bit with a knife or Jap saw, and clean up with a plane.

    Setting the hinges correctly takes a bit of practice. Set them in the base first, with the centreline of the pin just above the side and level with the back of the box. Only use one screw at this stage. Sit the lid on and lightly clamp it so that the sides are held level with the sides of the box, and mark the position of the hinges. Chisel out the beds for the hinges, being sure not to go too deep.
    Attach the hinges to the top, using one screw in each hinge, and check the fit.
    If the fit isn't quite correct, you can pull it into place by putting the remaining screws in off centre, but be careful to pull it the right way. After each screw goes in, check the fit.
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  4. #3
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    T/S being table saw?
    seems pretty aggressive when doing very small boxes. does the amount of waste (i'm guessing around 5-6mm after sanding) matter?

  5. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bassmansimon View Post
    T/S being table saw?
    seems pretty aggressive when doing very small boxes. does the amount of waste (i'm guessing around 5-6mm after sanding) matter?

    You could make the box bigger to allow for this. I always make my boxes in one piece too.
    If you have a table mounted router then you can use it for the hinge cutout , I do.
    And I use a flipping story stick

    les

  6. #5
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    There are a few variations possible, depending on what you want to get to and the tools that you have. Generally the top and bottom are assembled as one piece and then seperated to ensure that the components are size matched.

    1. If hinges are a problem, you can make the box so that top and base are lipped to locate them without needing to hinge. To do this determine the cut line and cut half way through the box sides from the inside face before assembly. Once assembled, make another cut one kerf width lower down the side from the outside, and deep enough to just meet the previous cut. This gives the base an external rebate and the top an internal rebate so they mate properly.

    2. If you don't have facilities to cut the walls and seperate the box when assembled, by using stop blocks and care, with whatever you have for cutting, you should be able to cut upper and lower sides and ends so that the components are accurately size matched.

  7. #6
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    thanks guys.
    yes i think my next box will be made all in one piece, then cut in half

    i'm thinking about making it with no hinges this time.

    if i make a box then cut it, can i then put lining timber of an opposing colour etc in the inside of the lid, protruding out a bit, so that it will slide into the main area of the box? or opposite way around (lining in box)

  8. #7
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    You can do what you're suggesting, but usually it's the base that is lined. Do the liner say 3mm thick, with mitred ends. If you cut the liner sides accurately, they go in tight and don't need to be glued.
    If you don't have a tablesaw, you can separate the lid and base using a jap saw.mark the cut line accurately, then start from a corner and cut along the side with the blade at a low angle to the side - this helps you to stay on the line.
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  9. #8
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    thanks. will give it a go in a couple of weeks

  10. #9
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    There is nothing to stop you from putting hinges on the outside of your box that is made by cutting the box in half. If you use fancy hinges then this can look quite attractive and you can get a clasp to match the hinges. Remember to place a thin card between the box and the lid to create a little gap, whiie you screw the hinges in place to allow the hinges to function properly.

    Installing butt hinges are not that difficult with a bit of practice and use a jig and a router to create the correct rebate for the hinge to fit into.

    Another great hinge is a home made wooden hinge which are not that difficult to make and install on the outside of the box and they do look attractive.
    You can find plans simple plans for a wooden hinges on this forum if you do a search.
    Reality is no background music.
    Cheers John

  11. #10
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    If your library has a copy of one of Doug Stowe's books on making wooden boxes, it is a great read and you will learn plenty from it. Better still try and obtain a copy of one of his DVD's
    Reality is no background music.
    Cheers John

  12. #11
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    Default

    There's a knack to it. I usually make one box - lid & base combined - then separate them on the T/S
    I'm guessing you remove the crown guard on the t/s to do this

  13. #12
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    You have to remove the guard, but it's quite safe because the blade is fully covered when you're cutting. If you don't cut all the way through, you can do the final separation with a hand saw, then clean up with a chisel & plane.
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  14. #13
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    I personally wouldn't ever do any operation on the t/s with the guard removed, but i guess thats because i've had it regularly drummed in to my head that it is unacceptable to do so by my tutor

  15. #14
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    I've made many boxes in one piece and then cut the top off as mentioned earlier.
    I have used a lot of fancy outside hinges. You will find that they are hard to keep in the correct position while fitting the screws,so I now glue them in place with a little super glue, can be moved around while still wet, and when they are set insert the screws.
    lots of different things to try.
    Have fun, Keith.

  16. #15
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    i like this idea of superglue. just not too much i guess

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