Thread: Need help with routing back edge of 'C' curve

Lyle,

This is hard for some of us visual learners even with the photos, but could you cut the bevel somehow with a saw, given that the piece is being held in a jig?

Graham

Can't hold it in a vice to saw it, or plane it. At least with the saw/planes I have.
I just finished a run with the router using a stop piece held behind the "C".. It worked OK. Was very nervous about it kicking back, but it didn't budge. Mind you it was only a light cut.

A reversal of sequence might work better. Shape the bevels in pieces more easily maneuvered. Then cut the "C" shapes, then round over the edges. Similar problems of holes in odd-shaped workpieces are often best done by drilling the holes first in a straightforward blank, then forming the final shape.

Cheers,
Joe

Thanks Joe, a revised cutting and then routing process might be better. Hadn't thought of that. "Forrest for the trees" I was focussed on what I had done and was down the path. I'll have another think on your thought. Although it'll mean a bit more waste in the cutting out the blanks from the template.

I have taken a couple more photos of another prototype to show the use of the stand and size. Also a vertical shot down to show the joint I was after. It is a bit battered and filled with woodfiller to fill in the dings of the router and is only held together with a pipecleaner. But you should get the idea.

Lyle.

There is a good possibility this could be achieved with the router in the plunge mode shaping the parts and adding the 60 degree angle in one safe process with only a little trimming to be done.

If you care to submit more details of the dimensions, radius and timber to be used etc I may be able to assist. I will not say it can be done until I have tried it.
Tom

You can upload pictures larger than 4Kb. The thumbnails in other threads are about 4Kb, because they represent pictures of about 100Kb, which blow up to full screen when clicked. Yours don't enlarge for me; might be browser-dependent, of course.

I get most of the idea from your latest pictures, but larger images would help. BTW, I like your use of pipe cleaners as adjustable clamps.

Cheers,
Joe

Thanks Joe. The curve is not a set radius. Rather a curve I created using a soft edge tape.
The wood has been white cedar and red cedar about 10mm thick.
The jig I made works now that I have used a piece to clamp the job in place and take light cuts. The amount of material taken off is minimal anyway.

I'll make a couple of production items with photos along the way.

Lyle.

Try screwing a piece of scrap, from the arm on the back of the jig, forward to the work piece. It should hold it forward on the jig whilst you cut.

Scott