Thread: What is the Best Router???

Ray,
I do agree. The MOF001 is a great router and I also use it with the Leigh jig. Because of the preciseness of the router, the dovetails are of an excellent quality when made with the Leigh jig. The TRA001 now stays permanently in the table.
Les

I'm planning to buy a quality Router for table mount as well as 'hand held'. However, I have not much option here in Indonesia !!!

Some available Router sold here are Makita, Maktec, and HITACHI. After a month of searching and browsing, my ONLY option is Hitachi - M12SA2 .
Seeing the picture on internet, it looks okey and I think I should be able to handle it. But doubt myself after I went to the shop and have a look the actual router.....

Can anyone suggest, would it be difficult for hand-held ?
How about using it for a router table, would it be difficult for adjustment, bit changing etc !??

Any advise ?

Originally Posted by hcim

Some available Router sold here are Makita, Maktec, and HITACHI. After a month of searching and browsing, my ONLY option is Hitachi - M12SA2 .
Seeing the picture on internet, it looks okey and I think I should be able to handle it. But doubt myself after I went to the shop and have a look the actual router.....

Can anyone suggest, would it be difficult for hand-held ?
How about using it for a router table, would it be difficult for adjustment, bit changing etc !??

Any advise ?

Firstly, the router seems to be single speed - never a good idea for such a large motor. It means that - in spite of the size of the router - you'll be quite restricted in the size of cutter you can safely use.

Secondly, it's heavier than the large Triton router and many will say that the Triton is a bit cumbersome for hand-held use, although great in a table. I've not had any problems using a big Triton hand-held, but the Triton has the undoubted advantage of the extendable metal baseplate, so good for edge-profiling work. Heavy routers are at a disadvantage for hand-held work involving edge-profiling, because - by definition - more than half of the router overhangs the workpiece, making tipping a real possibility without some form of stabilisation (like the Triton uses). This also renders it unsuitable for use with the majority of conventional dovetail jigs.

The router base has one straight edge, a style I avoid at all costs, preferring a circular base every time. I appreciate that this is a personal preference, but it is based on many years of routing experience, having tried both styles.

For table use, you will not be able to use most of the larger-diameter bits, particularly horizontal panel-raising ones, due to not being able to vary the speed. I suppose that you could use a speed controller, but you will also lose power that way. The spindle lock looks a little flimsy in the (single-sheet) "user manual" link I found and all bit-changing when in the table will require access from below.

In conclusion - I wouldn't buy it. It doesn't have variable speed and nothing else puts it apart from many other cheaper models.

Ray.

Originally Posted by rayintheuk

Firstly, the router seems to be single speed - never a good idea for such a large motor. It means that - in spite of the size of the router - you'll be quite restricted in the size of cutter you can safely use.

Secondly, it's heavier than the large Triton router and many will say that the Triton is a bit cumbersome for hand-held use, although great in a table. I've not had any problems using a big Triton hand-held, but the Triton has the undoubted advantage of the extendable metal baseplate, so good for edge-profiling work. Heavy routers are at a disadvantage for hand-held work involving edge-profiling, because - by definition - more than half of the router overhangs the workpiece, making tipping a real possibility without some form of stabilisation (like the Triton uses). This also renders it unsuitable for use with the majority of conventional dovetail jigs.

The router base has one straight edge, a style I avoid at all costs, preferring a circular base every time. I appreciate that this is a personal preference, but it is based on many years of routing experience, having tried both styles.

For table use, you will not be able to use most of the larger-diameter bits, particularly horizontal panel-raising ones, due to not being able to vary the speed. I suppose that you could use a speed controller, but you will also lose power that way. The spindle lock looks a little flimsy in the (single-sheet) "user manual" link I found and all bit-changing when in the table will require access from below.

In conclusion - I wouldn't buy it. It doesn't have variable speed and nothing else puts it apart from many other cheaper models.

Ray.

Many thanks for your kind advice Ray!
You've covered most of the downside that I need to know, regarding the usability, stability etc.

I'll prefer to buy the one with variable speed (which is M12V2 in this case), ... unfortunately it's NOT available here. As I mentioned previously that finding a quality router is hopeless here in Indonesia. (Personally I don't really like the Hitachi model, BUT I have not much options). - I've just check with several hardware shop, and they don't have any Triton router. -

I'm working in Jakarta-Kota and near my office there is an area called Lindesteves and Glodok, where most of the main suppliers and distributor of hardware and tools are. Sadly, If you ask for a medium size router... most of them will offer Makita or Hitachi. Not to mention the model are very limited as well.
Most of them will ONLY have:

• - Makita (2 or 3 models max.)
• - Hitachi (M12SA2 model ONLY)
• - Ryobi (several models)
• - Maktec (one has 1 model)
• - various trimmer from different brand

So I guess, I need to order from overseas to have a proper one .

Thanks.

Scheer.....if you can afford one.

I have a Makita 1/2" router, about 5 years old. When changing bits the neck seems to have two pressures when undoing and doing up. This is a pest at times, especially when I use the 1/4" reducer collet.

Is this normal for routers, or can it be fixed?

I use this router in a bench at all times, upside down.

Originally Posted by Black Bear

I have a Makita 1/2" router, about 5 years old. When changing bits the neck seems to have two pressures when undoing and doing up. This is a pest at times, especially when I use the 1/4" reducer collet.

Is this normal for routers, or can it be fixed?

If I understand you correctly, this is normal behaviour for the often-called "self-release" design of collet. The second bite is required to lift the insert slightly to complete the release of the bit. Tightening, however, should be one smooth pressure, not two. Remove the collet nut assembly from the shaft and thoroughly clean, but do NOT separate the internal collet sleeve from the nut.

Ray.

Originally Posted by rayintheuk

If I understand you correctly, this is normal behaviour for the often-called "self-release" design of collet. The second bite is required to lift the insert slightly to complete the release of the bit. Tightening, however, should be one smooth pressure, not two. Remove the collet nut assembly from the shaft and thoroughly clean, but do NOT separate the internal collet sleeve from the nut.

Ray.

You deciphered my description exactly, Ray, Thank you. At least it is not a fault. I will do as you suggest.

hey mate
Here in UK Tend seem to be the daddy if not of routers then routing fullstop ,they have an endless range of cutters and accessories I myself have the trend T11 1/2" router which spends most of its time in the router table and I have recently run around 40lm of T&G for some panel gates I was ive made and its also ergonomic enough to be handled easily out of the table,Does Triton have a monopoly on routers in Aus ? as it seems to be the only make that seems to be pushed on your forum,It didnt fair well on reviews in UK.
Happy routing
Nick