Finishing and preparing to finish

**Clinton1** · 15th August 2005, 12:19 PM

I was sent some samples and spent the weekend planing and sanding down to familarise myself with the timber.
Huon pine, Celery top pine, Blackwood, Silver wattle, Tassie Myrtle.

I'd like to pose some questions for all those with the experience (not me

).
I hand sanded to 400 grit wet and dry. Is going any further any use?
After sanding I wet down the surfaces and let dry (to raise fibres).
The blackwood turned very rough with raised fibres, others showed no change.
I could not remove, or stop the blackwood from roughening up - do I need to "stiffen" the fibres that are raising with a varnish or french polish then sand off?

How do I clean the sand paper when sanding Huon (without using the paper on a hardwood - this was the quickest way to 'clean out' the paper.)?

I was seeing "scratch marks" in the Huon even with a fresh sheet of 400 grit W&D, light shiny marks coming out on each "wipe". ???

Does anyone use different finishes for different parts of the furniture they make. I.e. poly for the coffee table top, wax for the "not in use" parts??

I'd appreciate some suggestions for finishes for the listed species.
My intent is to try different finishes on the pieces to use as a "reference' board. Are there favorite finishes for these timbers? (thats if I can keep my hands off the nicer pieces).
I have some background in finishing (only in french polishing - mostly silky oak and red cedar), but that was 12 years ago.
BTW the finishing bible from Neil is on order. I'm looking for your experience and "favorites" to try out.
Thanks
Clinton

**Termite** · 15th August 2005, 01:09 PM

By my way of thinking 400 W&D is about halfway there. I sand all the way to 1200 W&D. The method of grain raising depends on the type of finish I'm going to use.
If I'm doing a Ubeaut wax finish I apply Ubeat sanding sealer and remove the raise with one swipe of 1200. If I'm doing a Danish oil finish I rub the first & second coat of oil in with 1200 W&D this takes care of any raised grain.

Like most things in life the result will depend on how much you put into the initial preparation.

**rsser** · 15th August 2005, 09:23 PM

Huon's funny stuff. Pretty oily. Finish it with oil and it goes pretty dark over time, and boring. Sanding sealer and wax works better for me. Never had problem with scratches - work carefully up the grades, light pressure, fresh quality paper. Never needed to go over 400g.

As for blackwood, as for all your samples, pieces vary. All depends on the grain, the weather, your corns etc. That said, yeah, use some kind of sealer to hold the fluff - shellac or n/c sanding sealer.

**aabb** · 15th August 2005, 09:44 PM

Originally Posted by Termite

. If I'm doing a Danish oil finish I rub the first & second coat of oil in with 1200 W&D this takes care of any raised grain.

Like most things in life the result will depend on how much you put into the initial preparation.

Would this be a reasonable/advised course of action for Tassie Oak also?

I did sample piece recently with intergrain tung oil ... sanded to 600 then applied oil and let dry then sanded back again to 600 and reoiled ..was happy enough with that though wonder if sandback when wet is better

Thanks
Albert

**NewLou** · 15th August 2005, 09:55 PM

Gidday Clinton1

Heres some great Finishing articles I've come a cross in my travels:

http://woodworkstuff.net/RubinFin.html
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/rubbingout.htm
http://www.io.com/~richardr/writing/APerfectFinish/

I've found these all a great read and a great help!!!

REgards Lou

**aabb** · 15th August 2005, 10:10 PM

Thanks NewLou for the links - have just had a quick skim and they look great - will read in more detail later.

You must have a massive list of favourites or database of links - seem to have links for everything there == good on ya

albert

**Clinton1** · 15th August 2005, 10:13 PM

Termite: Thanks, I think that I might give the finer grits a go, and see if I can tell the difference with my stubby fingers.

rsser: I don't really like the "plastic layer" look of some poly's. My concern is the softness of Huon might need a poly if its in a table top type situation. Can wax (x-linked mix?) get by on a table top?
I think theres something about blackwood thats going to bite me... looks good though, so I'll stick with it.
Thanks for your points.

Lou - thanks - will read.

Cheers,
any more for any more?

**rsser** · 16th August 2005, 07:41 AM

Sure. But Huon's not the best timber for a table top is it? In any case, poly scratches readily and isn't repairable. Not sure how durable wax would be. White shellac and careful use might be the go.

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