Thread: Help with preparing slab of redgum for bar top

I have never used plastibond to fill timber cracks and voids (what colour will it end up being?) May turn out ugly unless it can be coloured to what you desire.

I now use casting resin (used for fibreglassing etc) I use it clear or get it tinted black depending on what effect I'm trying to achieve. It can be got at any outlet for fiberglassing supplies (maybe even bunnings has it?) Better to buy from where the tradies buy though as you'll get some better advise (ussually). And its relatively cheap.

As for the oil finish, I wouldnt use linseed (others who use oil finishes will be able to advise here) there are much better products available.

I use 2-pack poly finishes on my bar tops etc. which require spraying equipment. Though Wattyl 7008 is able to be applied with a lambswool applicator (been told its quite easy to achieve an acceptable result) This will give you a very durable finish, but maybe not the matt type look that you are after.

I also am not fimilar with that product, but I also agree that you should use a two part filler to fill the defects.

A bit of advice, only slightly over fill the cracks, voids, dents, etc. The more you put on, the more time you will spend sanding down those damages.

Do not use Linseed Oil, it dries to slow if it ever dries, The clerk must have meant to use Boiled Linseed Oil, You might want to consider using one of the Danish Oils, they usually also contain an alkyd varnish or poly and are more durable and chemical resistant. These types are wiped on finishes, read the directions on the labels, or ask some more questions.

Good Luck

Mac

1. Don't rush into this. wait until you weigh up the information from here.
2. Plasti-bond as a filler with any timber YUK! YUK! YUK! and again I say YUK!!
3. Get the moisture content of your piece measued. It may need more drying time.
4. Post some photo's so that forumites might assess the problems you have. It might pay you to put small paper notes on the piece describing a particular problem. eg. crack 2cms wide x cms long.
5. Take little notice of anything that youare told at Bunnings.
6. There must be furniture makers around your are who have experience with Red Gum. Annoy them.
7. Stay away from Plasti-bond.
8. Keepus posted before you do anything.
9. Stay away from plasti-bond.
10. Plasti-bond is only glorified panelbearter's bog. Stay away from it.!!!!

You can use araldite, but it is expensive if youve got a lot of filling to do.
You can also use builders bog (white not pink) and colour it up with powder tints but this depends on how good you are at mixing and matching colour.
You can also touch up the filled bits with simple spirt stains and 3-4 very fine brushes (if done with bog) to immitate natural knots and other woody features.This requires some practice but its fun to do.

You can use a 2 pac resin like araldite and tint with powder colour this will have a translucency rather like dried redgum sap and is less messing around.
It depends on the look you want it to have
For finish, i'd use danish oil.

getting the moisture content is a sound idea but where or how you do this
i have no idea.
maybe Artme can tell you.

Shopping list
builders bog or 2 pac clear resin (one with a longer drying time to give you time to mess around with colouring it and filling the cracks)
powder tints in burnt umber and the reddish brown one the (name escapes me) basicly a very dark brown, a red brown
small cans of spirit stain( if your using the touch out method)
nah scrubb that, you can tint meths with your powder colour.
artists palett knife to ladle in the mix and spread it out
1ltr cabots danish oil
600 grit wet and dry to cut back your danish oil.
0000 steel wool buffing danish oil.

Astrid

PS I dont think youll finish in 2-3 weeks, a good job shouldnt be hurried especialy if you doing this for the first time.
PPS you need advise on how to keep the bark on and sealed. I have no idea
Help anyone??

Decide what colour effect you would like before you do anything.

Oils will darken the Colour of redgum. often very considerably
Water based clears will give you the nearest finish to natural timber Colour.
Furniture lacquer starts out close to water clears but they darken over time

Use an expoxy resin filler, you can leave it clear or tint it to your taste
You may as well use car bog as plastibond but only use either if you are going to paint it instead of using a clear finish.

Bob,
cabots danish we have established is a poly base and dosent darken the timber any more that wetting it but it rubs in and dosent have the plastic look of normal poly.
also builders bog is used by the big restorers to fake missing parquetry but it does take skill and practice to paint a faux wood knot.

i'm knot brilliant at this but somtimes i surprise myself.
you fill the hole with bog tinted to match the majority of the timber.
then use a brush with only one or two hairs in it to very carefully fake a grain using spirit stain.

some guys I know can do this so the bog is invisable to even the most experienced eye.

but its probably not a technique for beginers on a good bit of wood, so go for the resin

astrid

Regarding, the Water Clear coatings, they give a cold look to most woods and finishes, in some cases as with the water base coatings, which also are water clear, a small amount of dye is being added to warm up the water clear coatings to actually look like the nitro coatings.

I find the little amount of amber in nitocellulose lacquers actually improves many of dark coloured woods as they age.

So here we see differing opinions from 3 knowledgable people.

What this means Gilly, is you should experiment on some offcuts & see which finish you prefer.

Moisture content:

1. If you know that the slab has bee properly kiln dried, or is very old, naturally seasoned timber you can assume it's safe to work on.
2. Their must be timber merchants, millers, restorers etc around adelaide who have misture metres that they coul hire to you.

Finish:

1. If you want a wet,shiny look then there are plenty of options.
2. For and oil finish a method I've seen used several times might suit you. You can use this method with Organ Oil or The Trton oil. I suspect it would also do well with Wattyl Scandanavian or some of the "Danish" oil finishes.

• After plugging holes and cracks, sand with a random orbital sander. keep the sander moving. work down through the grades to finest grade you intend to use. I'd suggest about 400 at least.
• Leave sanding dust on timber from final sanding grade., spread oil on a patch and redo with ROS.This gives a truely good finish. You can repeat the oil and sanding after wiping the slab down.

The sandinding dust collected above can be used to help plug cracks and holes, its big advantage is that the colour is right.

Hi
Thanks to all for you advice, really appreciate it!!
Sounds to me though that i may need some assistance, does anyone know any people who would consider doing the job for me in Adelaide. I live in Melrose Park so don't want to travel too far if I can help it.
Thanks again
Cheers
Gilly
Have included some photos (I hope it worked)

Regarding a moisture meter, when you locate someone who has a moisture meter, bring the wood to them, it only takes a couple of minute to do the piece, do a few areas with the meter to check the whole slab.

Another option to use as a two part filler that works really good are the Epoxy sticks, they are sold in several colors. I'm sure they are sold all over in many different places.

Here, is a photo showing the epoxy stick, it certainly has its place in furniture repair, and is very handy to have around the house.