Thread: ...Oh ***&%!!..why did this happen??

Looks as if you might have something on the wood which is stopping the stain soaking in,

Maybe glue or grease - from you hand (sweaty)

As the stain is not opaque if you touch it up any colour you put on the bald spot that goes onto the dry stain will immediately give a darker mark. I think I would a least clean off the area to make sure it is only timber and then redo the whole section. You should be able to do just the edge and avoid both of the other sides.

Try cleaning the problem area first and see if the stain will take but I would bet the edge where the old and new join will show.

If its pretty good you may be able to make it invisible by using an air brush or small spray gun and lightly dust some stain over and beyond the area this will make it hard to see where the mark is.

Would the hard shellac be resilient enough to withstand constant handling with sweaty hands?

There was very little if any handling. The piece simply lay on the bench between applications. As fas I can remeber I didn't touch that side champfer for any reason except with the pad to apply the next coat.

It was just a small swish & voila ...almost back to the wood.:eek:

If the wood was dirty I can understand it, except that the first few coats went on very well.

Ah well, I'm trying to 'blend' as suggested.

Fingers crossed.

Probably an oil based stain that you went over with the hard shellac, the meths will take it out and cause a few problems (been there, done that:mad: ).
Either use an oil base finish or go for a water based dye before applying hard shellac, or any spirit based finish.

not sure but it happens to me all the time


think it's called 'finishingly challenged'

hey
Followed you here from musical forum.
I have similar issues frequently and have found the only way to repair a blem like this is to strip and start again. You will never be satisfied with a patched up job. Every time you look at it you will wish you redid it.

I have found the easiest way to get a stain onto a body is to seal the body well first then spray a dozen or so very thin coats of stained lacquer. It is easier to get it even and as you progress the colour deepens. When you get it right start spraying clear. Get a few solid coats in and then start light sanding. If you hit it with paper befor the clear it takes nothin" and you onto raw wood. The stain somehow weakens the lacquer and makes it real soft. You have to start over if you get a bare patch you never get it lookin' right.

I am doing a maple neck now with vintage amber and it has taken 2 goes to get it right.

yeh i'm on a roll tonight , jumping from thread to thread !

now spraying is alright for you smart humans, but what about us neanderthals, we can't spray...

just had to redo a dining table after a stuff up, and it's 6ft x 3ft ! but yes i was'nt happy with the results so better to start over...i use a card scraper by the way to remove the finish, can do a whole dining table top in about 20min...

la H

Spraying is not rocket science.
A half decent spray unit and a 30 litre compressor can be got at bunnies for $150.00. Add some brass fittings, hose, tefflon tape and a moisture trap and your ready to go [another 50 bucks or so]. half an hour with a water filled spray gun will show you how it works.

The secret is many light coats and you will get very even coverage.

I learnt spray basics on my first tele.