Thread: How to refinish this table

Sounds more like it was a lacquer finish than enamel

I'm with echnidna, sounds like lacquer less likely poyurethane and not likely enamel . If it is lacquer it will remelt with a bit of lacquer thinner metho may also soften it, Poly won't soften enamel would be attacked by thinner and it would act like paint stripper.. If nothing comes off on the rag with the lacquer thinner (use a dark one so you can see the white) then its probably poly.

You can do as you mentioned lightly sand the surface, but first it will need a good wash (maybe several) with a wax and grease remover especially if its been near Mr Sheen or any other silicon polish in its life any bare areas would be best primed to seal them off. Don't attack the top until you have tried your preferred paint method on a section which is not important ( like underneath)

An oil based paint would not be very servicable, either redo it with more lacquer as you mention you intend spraying or go to a polyurethane either way especially with the polyurethane make sure you understand the safety requirements and have a suitable place to spray. Lacquer is the most freindly to use if you are not experienced in painting with a spray gum it dries fast and can be rubbed back after a few minutes enamel finishes you get what you manage to spray down and it can't be essily fied as it takes a long time to dry hard enough .

Lacquer can be easily redone and fixed, up enamels (poly or other wise ) require safe dust free areas and can give you major headaches if you don't know exactly what you are doing. Epoxy is not really a finish for something like a furniture.

Thanks for the tips, durwood. I shall investigate with some Lacquer thinners and see what we find!

Sounds like I will first start out with lacquer (never used it before). Do you have any tips (or is there a good how-to somewhere on the web)?

Many thanks

sorry to be a pesimist guys, but I,ve had to do a few of these for clients and you may be looking at a two pac polly,
If it is a two pac,this stuff is removable with stripper but i'ts hard work.
brush on a thick coat of stripper on one 4" strip with the grain. if you try a larger surface the stripper will dry out and the surface will harden up again before you get to it.
use a scraper to remove a long strip of the finish, if its a two pack it willcome off like (sorry for the crudity) a used condom.
keep going in strips, then go over it again.
If you think your down to the timber wait, and go over it with stripper again.
then give it a good sand.
If its vaneer be carefull you dont sand through.
As I said I've been caught out with a couple of these and when you think its all off and try to put your finish o, it wont stick.
I refuse these jobs now unless its a really good table just not cost effective for me or the client.

Anyway I might be wrong about whats on it so good luck.

Astrid

If Astrid is right and it is 2 pack poly then as you intend redoing it again in white there is no need to strip it. It is an ideal surface to respray over just sand back and paint it again.

If you use poly put it straight on top of the old finish once cleaned rubbed and primed (any large bare timber spots) If its poly and you want to do it in lacquer then it would be better to put a lacquer primer on the poly before the colour to get good adhesion. (only a few thin coats)

There should be lots of info on lacquer if you do a search. If not let us know it is easy to spray just different to enamel.

Astrid, if you find the stripper dries out on you put a sheet of plastic over the stripper to trap the solvents and keep it soft while you scrape elsewhere. You should be able to apply stripper to an area at least as big as a car door panel without it drying out even in hot weather.

Most people are too impatient with stripper the longer you leave it on the better, put a thick coat on the surface and leave it for as long as you can. Its a good idea to leave it at least 1/2 hour cover it up go have lunch and when you come back it should normally be so soft it scrapes off easily. ( depends on the stripper you use of cause)

Thanks durwood,
apreciate the tip re gladwrap, i dont know wht i havent thought about it before,
but will respraying hide that big white mark?
if it does your just saved me hours and hours

Astrid

Are you sure it's worth restoring ?
it was bought from Freedom Furniture so it's likely veneered chipboard rather than solid timber
It might be easier to make a new top


ian

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Ian

It's worth redoing because SWMBO wants it done!!!

Durwood and Echnidna

If I use lacquer I will have to use my Little Beaver that Dad bought 25 years ago. Any idea where I can get spares? Also, doe anyone have a copy of the User's Manual that I could have? If so please PM me.

You don't want to use White Lacquer, because White Lacquer will oxidize and start ambering in time.

You want to strip this finish off, and then take it down to the raw wood, then you want to use an Acrylic primer and an Acrylic Lacquer coating. Be sure you also purchase the right Acrylic Thinners.

Good Luck

Originally Posted by jmk89

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Ian

It's worth redoing because SWMBO wants it done!!!

Durwood and Echnidna

If I use lacquer I will have to use my Little Beaver that Dad bought 25 years ago. Any idea where I can get spares? Also, doe anyone have a copy of the User's Manual that I could have? If so please PM me.

Well I have done some research and have:

1. Ordered lacquer and primer from Durobond (I'll take delivery and do some experiments when we have moved into the new house and the tide of boxes has receded somewhat!!!).
2. Got onto Gepro - they market the Easy Sprayer, which looks just like the Little Beaver and they say that they are the people to get spares from.
3. Obtained a pdf of the Easy Sprayer manual from Gepro.

If anyone would like a copy of the manual, please PM me with your email address.

Originally Posted by MacS

You don't want to use White Lacquer, because White Lacquer will oxidize and start ambering in time.

You want to strip this finish off, and then take it down to the raw wood, then you want to use an Acrylic primer and an Acrylic Lacquer coating. Be sure you also purchase the right Acrylic Thinners.

Good Luck

One trick I learned regarding white enamel paint ,,,,to stop it from yellowing with age ,add a tiny amount of blue paint to the whole tin of white .
Dont know why it works ,but it does.
Kev

Originally Posted by MacS

You don't want to use White Lacquer, because White Lacquer will oxidize and start ambering in time.

You want to strip this finish off, and then take it down to the raw wood, then you want to use an Acrylic primer and an Acrylic Lacquer coating. Be sure you also purchase the right Acrylic Thinners.

Good Luck

One trick I learned regarding white enamel paint ,,,,to stop it from yellowing with age ,add a tiny amount of blue paint to the whole tin of white .
Dont know why it works ,but it does.
I know it also works with aqueous acrylics as well .
Dont know about other types of paint.
Kev

Jeremy,

Did you test the coating on the table to see what it is? You really should know what it is unless your going to strip it.

Try using either Lacquer Thinner or Acetone, if it softens and wipes off then it most likely a colored lacquer and should be an easy strip. If its Poly and you have the right stripper it will be a harder strip, most 2 pac coatings are very difficult to remove.

In most cases spraying over poly and 2 pac coatings may course different problems. If fact may course cracking and poor adhesion making you strip it.

Do a test, stripping even though its difficult it maybe your best option in the long run.

You might want try using an awl to scratch through the coatings, this will allow the paint remover to get underneath the coating and make it much easier to scrap off the old coating.

Good on your adventure.

Think Twice, Finish Once..

Kev,

Most formulators do that now, but a lot depends on the enviorment where the pieces are resting.

Using a Water Clear Acrylic, is the best way to go, nitro and varnish start out as an amber color, add blue may decieve the eye for a while.

I guess its worth a try, the only problem might be adding more blue into the coating maybe to much blue.