Thread: Sam Maloof finish

That is the finish I have been using for the past 2 years. I use it for most of my projects. For hard wearing surface like tables, I use wip-on poly only.

I won't use anything else. Why change a winning forumla?

Originally Posted by Wongo

That is the finish I have been using for the past 2 years. I use it for most of my projects. For hard wearing surface like tables, I use wip-on poly only.

I won't use anything else. Why change a winning forumla?

Thanks Wongo, I'll take your recommendation on that.

SB

I use the first part - except it should be the linseed oil that's boiled, not the tung oil.

Then I use Ubeaut traditional wax instead of the second part.

I really like the rich look this finish gives the wood.

Pieces finished this way include this, this, and this, which might give you a feel for what the finish looks like on mahogany and blackwood.

Tex

I also use the 1/3 third finish. Howewver I prefer to use gloss polyurethane. The reason is simple. To achieve a satin finish steatites are added by the manufacturer. Stearites obscure the grain. Use the gloss and if it's too shiny, then simply toning it down with a very mild abrasive is all that is necessary.

Jerry

Sounds like a better mix than the Danish oil I use. What I would like to know, should there be any sanding/rubbing between coats?
Regards
Les

Originally Posted by lesmeyer

What I would like to know, should there be any sanding/rubbing between coats?
Regards
Les

Yes, according to Sam Maloof.

You don't sand but you rub as much finish off as possible.

Originally Posted by jerryc

To achieve a satin finish steatites are added by the manufacturer. Stearites obscure the grain.

Jerry

Yes I found this out after I bought some satin poly. Doh.

Originally Posted by Wongo

You don't sand but you rub as much finish off as possible.

I didn't know this, but had been wondering....
Obviously you still want to build enough depth to bring a shine a full shine

Originally Posted by Wongo

You don't sand but you rub as much finish off as possible.

Sam Maloof talks about rubbing off the first coat as much as possible but later says sand between coats except for the two final coats with bees wax.

SB

2 things.

Firstly, Sam didn't say that. He said apply the finish, rub it off completely then leave it to dry for 2 days. Repeat the same process for another 3 times. For the fifth coat he mixed Tung oil, Linseed oil and wax.

Secondly, I don't see the advantage of sanding. Sandpapers don't remove the oil completely, a cloth does.

Originally Posted by Wongo

2 things.

Firstly, Sam didn't say that. He said apply the finish, rub it off completely then leave it to dry for 2 days. Repeat the same process for another 3 times. For the fifth coat he mixed Tung oil, Linseed oil and wax.

Secondly, I don't see the advantage of sanding. Sandpapers don't remove the oil completely, a cloth does.

It's times like these I wish I'd keept the artical I was reading just the other week, so I guess I wrote the formula and process down all wrong again.

SB

No need to keep any articles. I've got the video and a book for your. Let's me refresh your momery.

"It is a mixture of one-third linseed oil, one-third raw tung oil, and one-third semigloss urethane varnish. I apply it generously and then rub it off completely so there isn't a wet spot left anywhere. I let it sit overnight and then add another coat. The process is repeated about 4 times. Then I make a batch of finish that is half linseed oil and half tung oil with some shredded beeswax mixed in. I put two coats of that finish on, and the chair's finished, ready to be used."

Sam Maloof.

Perhaps we were getting mixed up with "sand" and "rub", I know I did.

Originally Posted by Wongo

Then I make a batch of finish that is half linseed oil and half tung oil with some shredded beeswax mixed in. I put two coats of that finish on, and the chair's finished, ready to be used

I've never used beewax before, does the bees wax melt naturally into the mix or would i need to melt it first?