Thread: Sanding Sealer Problems

You should be using a "no - fil stearated" sandpaper, instead of clogging the sandpaper it will turn the dust into a fine powder.

Some, sell these sandpapers as no - fil or no - load papers.

Good Luck

Yep, the white paper at Bunnings. Al Ox I think it is.

Your sanding sealer may also need diluting btw, and Silky Oak can be tricky sometimes to finish regardless. I've got one turning that came up fine with sanding sealer and wax and a piece from a different tree that looked rough no matter what I did to it.

Originally Posted by one day soon

I experienced problems with clogging. This would happem almost instantaneously, and the buildup would then mar the surface. ODS

I had the same problem when i tried to use Feast Watson Sanding Sealer.

After much frustration i tried Wattle Professional Sanding Sealer. It's in the red/bronze colored can and available from Bunnings. I found it much easier to use and now use it in conjuction with Timbermate wood filler (as a grain filler).

I dilute the Timbermate in water to thin it out then rub it in with a rag to fill open grained timber. Sand back to raw timber with fine paper (leaving the Timbermate in the grain only) then apply Wattle Sanding Sealer. Apply a second coat of Wattle if required sanding between coats. After a final sand with 800 to 1200, i finish with Minwax Wipe-on Poly.

Found this combo works for me.

Steven.

Steven,

I hope you don't have problems downstream, but Poly is a self-sealing coating.

Did they mention this on their label? Most companies that manufacture Polyurethane usually has this on there labels.

They prefer first thinning by fifty percent as the seal coats. then apply full coats.

The sanding back you did, is in your favor.

Good Luck.