Thread: Sap bleeding through Danish Oil

gooday Ern,


have the same issue with himalayan cedar; I roughed out the blanks in April 09 and they've been oozing resin inside the bowls like it's going out fashion. Last month I cracked the sh#t big time and scrubbed them down hard with a stiff brush and heaps of acetone. It worked ok and took the resin a while to dry. The rough blanks are no longer sticky to the touch but I'm going to wait longer before I tackle them.
If they continue to release resin I'm going to use them by taking up demolition bowling; bloody PITA timber it is.

Cheers, Evan

A gift that keeps on giving

Thanks for reporting that. Throws up some ideas.

This stuff wasn't sticky til the finish went on, so maybe the solvent is doing the damage.

Originally Posted by rsser

A gift that keeps on giving

Thanks for reporting that. Throws up some ideas.

This stuff wasn't sticky til the finish went on, so maybe the solvent is doing the damage.

No worries mate,

If you decide to go with acetone you're going to need heaps and work quickly as you're aware of its quick drying. I poured small amounts in the bowl and scrubbed like a madman until there was no acetone left and repeated the same the following day and now playing the waiting game to see if the resin shows its ugliness again .

Evan

Ah, OK.

No point in pinching the daughter's nail polish remover bottle then.

Any case, there's several coats of DO to make things complicated.

I reckon you could be waiting a VERY long time Ern . My old man used to cut that stuff into slivers and drill a hole in one end so people could slip it over a coat hanger to keep the moths away. Theory is that the resin/gas keeps flowing for YEARS longer than camphor

Yoiks!

They're commissioned utility bowls; client has already waited for the roughouts to dry. Darnit.

i'm not familar with this paticular wood ern-but when i get this problem i gently heat the offending area to help release the sap- then let it cool and repeat until no more ooze's out then seal with shellac and finish

Thanks for the tip Cornucopia.

Any timber with high aromatics probably shouldn't be used for food bowls. Bleeding as above is one good reason, tainting of food is another and as with almost anything with high aromatics..... it probably isn't good for you.

Your best possible solution is to wash it down with meths then coatit heavily with Hard Shellac which will stick to almost anything, is food safe when cured and has a resistance to lots of the staining etc. It should also lock in all the nasty stuff..... But no guarantees.

Thanks for the tip, and the warning, Neil.

As for the smell, yes, I'd posted a query a while back about this. Most of it is gone now, like Camphor Laurel.

My bottle of hard shellac has been demoted to sanding sealer. Time to get some more; darn good stuff it is.

what is a good finish for redgum to make it shinny

Ryan,

Welcome to the forum.

Most finishes will give redgum a bit of a shine.

What is the piece and what's it going to be used for?

Just remember that careful sanding is half the game. Sand up to at least 400 grit, preferably higher.

.......

Hit the bowls today with the meths. Several times.

Not hard to get woozy on that stuff. Outside next time.

Two coats of hard shellac so far, diluted 1:1, cutting back with steel wool and a light sand. Will need another one or two.

Bit hard to paint it on evenly. So ordered one of those brushes from the US that Neil recommended a couple of years ago.

Fingers crossed.

A friend made a table out of Cedrus deodara it leaked resin though estopol for a couple of years. I have seen other Cedar that hasn't leaked at all. I cut some studs from Pinus radiata that some nong had cut the top off they were leaking till I put plaster over them.
If you search this you will find a t least 2 threads discusing Cedar leaking.

Neil's solution looks like a winner.

4 coats; has sat for 4 days with no bleeding so far.