Thread: Spraying Kitchen Finishes

Originally Posted by durwood

Hi Guys,

My background is in auto paint but I have used several timber paint finishes over the years.

A few points, auto paint is a better quality product and that is part reason for the higher price, as it has to be good enough to resist the ultra violet sun rays, it has in it chemicals to do so ( like sun tan lotions).

I had to get a first class finish on ordinary MDF mirror finish black,
I used auto 2k primer after washing surface with solvent applied a thin coat to get it to soak into the surface then normal coats. Rub with fine paper 800wet and then 2 coats of colour. the better the primer surface the better the finish if you have any faults they will still be in the colour

A colours coverage varies with the colour.

Some colours are lousy usually you need a suitable primer colour. Grey is good for white but hopeless for dark blue or yellow. If you don't use black under maroon you will need several coats to get coverage. The test for coverage is to paint over black and white stripes or checks. You may remember a TV add showing house paint covering over a black/white surface. Good quality paint will always cover as it should if its cheap it probably won't cover well thats why its cheap they left out the good pigment and watered it down.

Good kitchen finishers use polyurethane two pack its the same paint as used on jumbo jets its the hardest strongest paint available. You don't want the wife using scotch brite and gumpson on something which scratches easy. Same as you don't want a jumbo in to be repainted every year. It usually lasts over 10 years doing 700 MPH.

Hi Durwood
When you say that you have used timber finishes, were any of them Mirotone ??

With mirotone, you only need a sanding sealer, a quick sand, then ONE coat of colour, then a couple of top coats to get a excellent mirror finish, that is strong and durable.

Normell

Hi Normell,
yes I have used Mirotone as well as Wattyl and several others who also make sanding sealer etc. The sanding sealer then clear method you describe is the normal lacquer industrial way of painting timber.
All comercial timber finishes used to be done this way TV cabinets furniture etc, main reason its quick drys fast (dust free in a minuite or less) and can be reworked any time if damaged.

Trouble is when you say a company or a product it often doesn't mean much most companies get bought out by others and products get replaced by that companies most profitable line. Where there used to be 12-15 Auto paint companies they have been reduced to 2. They also have to keep changing product due to pollution laws.

Mirotone still is the original company I think, but other big ones such as Brolite and Lusteroid have been swallowed up so a product you buy now may be their formula instead.

Lacquer as I said is not up to par for auto work put it on a Jaguar wood dash and it would be stuffed in 6 months. Its only been in the last 10 years that clear has been of good enough quality to stand up for more than 2 -3 years. in Australian weather. Auto trade used to make a fortune repainting metallic finishes on vehicles which packed up in a year or two. Rolls Royce Australia painted their cars here before giving them to the customers because the Pommie paint didn't last the waranty period.

If you use lacquer keep it inside and away from direct sunlight. I have a desk chair which was lacquered which it now needs reclearing after only about 8 years because the wife put it near a window.

By all means use lacquer but if you want to the finish to last and to use it for every day use then something better quality is needed. I also use shellac often which as you know won't even take a hot cup its what should go on original antique pieces but not on the kitchen pine table you use every day.

Could I just get a spray can to do a small panel?

Would the results be ok?

Anybody attempted this?

I've used the cheapie $2.00 (or less on special!!) spray cans of enamel from Super-Cheap Auto for doing MDF bits and pieces around kitchens (kickpanels, patch panels to hide the #%$@$^&!!ing mess the plumber left in the back of the cupboard, trim bits under top cupboards and so on).

- And they have worked fine. Five years and counting.

Undercoat - -> enamel - - > quick rub with 600-1200 grit wet n' dry and buffing compound = near enough to piano finish for a kitchen.

Exception - one bit that got a lot of steam from kettle got water damaged, but the damaged side wasn't painted (duuuuh). Replacement got painted with West Epoxy as a waterproofer before painting, and I haven't had a reoccurence of the problem.

(this is what you do when you are too lazy to shlep out the compressor and spraygun)

Hi, Im a novice trying to improve my home.
I live in an apartment building about 8 years old. The kitchen cupboards are too dark. I think I want to 2 Pac them white. They are not timber. Does anyone know what they could be. I guess I could find a cabinent maker or a car sprayer. If anyone could suggest a cabinent maker willing to do a relatively small job (15 cupboards) or a car sprayer or if you have any ideas on how to proceed in changing the colour of colours, that would be very helpful. CLose to Sydney CBD or North Shore
Thank you.
Bec.

My background is in auto paint but I have used several timber paint finishes over the years.

Durwood

Couple of ball tearer posts there. I wish I was smart and experienced enough to take all that information in. I just know that some time in the future, when finishing a job, that I will be kicking myself that I did not understand all of the points you were trying to make.

Question Is there any outfit that you would recommend in Sydney where I could simply front up, tell them what I am trying to achieve and be satisfied that they have enough knowledge ( ie enough to satisfy you) to simply accept their recommendation, stump up the cash and take home their product in the knowledge that I have the best product ( ie not the one they want to sell) for the task at hand.

Regards

GT