Thread: Wax

I .... like many on this board would suggest that you check out the book by the provider of this forum. UBeaut.

The book will be able to assist you in all types of finishes. I would go as far as to say you may put away your varnishes after reading the book. I am fond of the shellac and wax finish now on anything I do. The book will point you in the right direction regarding the bees wax .... I think you will find that the bees wax melts at a low temperature and is prone for collectind dirt dust and finger prints.

Here is a little review from the site ....
REVIEW (Australian Woodworker Magazine Jan/Feb ‘96)

AUSTRALIAN POLISHER'S GUIDE

Neil J. Ellis is founder and principle tutor at the Central Victorian School of Woodcrafts. He is also the inventor of the products for turners called Shellawax, Polish Reviver, Woodturners Wax Stick and Traditional Wax, marketed under the umbrella of 'u Beaut Polishes.

In A Polishers Handbook Neil has combined and expanded upon the course notes of the polishing, restoration and decorative finishing classes offered at the Central Victorian School of Woodcrafts. The publication offers the reader the combined knowledge of many years' experience of the tutors at the school. In the author's own words, A Polishers Handbook is intended to give the reader a better understanding of finishes without bogging down with a lot of theory and irrelevant bulldust, to give the confidence to use fine finishes the reader may not have been able to master in the past, to introduce some new and exciting finishes and to give enough enthusiasm for the reader to not to only try them, but also have a go at experimenting with new styles.

The book deals with stripping the old finish, cleaning up the stripper, preparing the wood, dressing it, removing blemishes such as dents and staining, French polishing, the use and advantages of hide glue, some common errors in restoration, abrasives, stains, dyes, lacquer, polyurethane, oil and wax finishes, revivers, marbling, gilding and textured finishes with gesso and scumbling.

Full of information, A Polishers Handbook is very enjoyable to read on account of its overall casual tone, occasional touch of humour and short concise style. It is an ideal beginner's guide as well as a relevant Australian guide to finishes and finishing products.

A Polishers Handbook by Neil J. Ellis. Soft cover, 115 pages, 150mm x 210mm
Published by 'u Beaut Publishing,

Wax is not suitable for use directly over stained timber. A stain MUST be sealed into the timber with a solid surface coating like shellac, varnish, lacquer, polyurethane, etc. Wax can then be applied over this or on to raw timber, however no matter what anyone tells you, it is not a really great finish on raw timber for anything that will be used functionally as it is easily damaged by most liquids, heat, sticky fingered little kids and almost anything else that comes in contact with it. Keep it for decorative items that will be looked at and not touched and even then be prepared to renew the wax from time to time.

Hope this is of some help to you.

Cheers - Neil

In my relatively limited experience, wax is great for finishing the finish - as the final coat after danish oil it's brilliant for instance.

Bees wax in particular is made into a paste using a solvent (turpentine ?), and the solvent would have attacked the stain, which is why you got the blotching I believe.

Thanks to you all for the advice and tips. I will endevour to get to a supplier of UBEAUT products in Perth and get hold of some reading material, unless there is an updated supplier list for UBEAUT products in W.A. and I may find one a little closer.
Just as a matter of interest I didn't get the smudging on all of the piece I waxed, only one side which was the first piece that I waxed. Would it be possible that the product had a more concentrated film of turp's on the top? Just a thought.

Thanks again

Just do what i do, order the Ubeut stuff on the internet. Their delivery time is very quick.