Thread: Wiping polyurethane

Can't remember the brand right now, but I've bought some - not impressed. Pain in the ass to work with. I think Cabots also make one, I'm sure I've seen it in Bunnies - maybe described as a gel finish?

Easiest finish I've found by a long shot is Danish Oil. Rustins. Brilliant stuff - anything from 3 to 6 coats, depending on the timber, each of them dead easy & very quick, then finish with 0000 steel wool & Neil's wonderful wax and you have a finish on the piece better than any polyurethane.

I read from somewhere suggested that you can make wiping polyU yourself.

1 part of boiled linseed oil and ¼ of oil based polyU. Has anyone tried?

Scott

Kevin

The stuff is called "wipeonpoly". It's made by "minimax". It usually sells in a small 500ml/700ml tin or there abouts? (USA quart?) It's made in the USA. I've used it before and it only takes a couple of coats to give a great hand-rubbed finish. Danish Oil or similar may take more coats to acheive the same luster from my experience. The only draw back is price! From memory about $30.00 some two years ago. I got it from my local M10.

regards

There's an animal called "Padding Varnish" that's made by Behlen in the US which is probably the single best finishing product I've ever used in terms of high speed application and a finish like a vitriol (piano).

It takes a bit of practice to use but well worth the effort.

Is this Padding Varnish the same as wipe on poly?

Al
I don't believe padding varnish and wipeonpoly are the same product although they may be the same type of product.
Wiponpoly comes in a small tin as I mentioned, very similar to a"penetrol wood oil" container.
I know I'm getting off the original subject, but for ease of use, finish and cost you can't go past "penetrol wood oil". The only draw back is it's limited shelf life once opened. I usually place glass marbles in the container to displce the air once I use some.

regards

I remember an article in fine wood working not long ago which discussed wiping of finishes using rag on a roll.
they didn't use anything special, just thinned the product.
Which is important even when brushing. Unless you want poly to behave like house paint you gota thin it.

Hey Bruce,

Where does one source this penetrol oil in Qld? On your recommendation, I'll give it a shot!

Al.

AL

I'll pay my local M10 a visit (as you do) and let you know.



regards

you should be able to obtain penetrol from any decent paint shop or even bunnies for that matter.

Al
sorry to take so long to get back to you but soundman is right. It's made by the "flood company" and you should be able to pick it up at any decent hard-ware come paint store. Just remember once you open it either place it in a smaller and smaller air tight container as you use it or do as I do and place glass marbles in the container to displace the air.


Bruce

marbles in finish containers. Now thats one I havn't heard in a loooog time.

Used to be the thing to do with photographic chemicals before those concertina bottles came in.

Soundman

I know it's a bit outdated, but it works!!!!!!!!!!
You can buy "kilos" of marbles (well almost ) from Crazy Clarks or the like for next to nothing, cheaper than the concertina bottles.

I have wiped ordinary poly with good results. If I had a job that had to be wiped I wouldnt bother trying to find imported poly.
Dont recall adding linseed to it but I might have.
Easy enough to try out if you have a tin of poly hanging around.
I think water based finishes would probably wipe ok also.

I recall it gives a far superior finish to a brush but doesnt get the mirror gloss that you can get with brush or spray.

As each layer goes on very thin you need to wipe on at least 6 to 10 coats. Though there isnt much to denib I probably gave a very light scuff between coats with wet and dry.

Tips that might help. Rather than use a fiber or foam brush to put this on, try some of your wife/girlfriends old hose/pantyhose. In the case of pantyhose, get rid of everything but the leg material. Take a chunk of it, wad it up (pull the material tight on the outside of the ball). Use it like you would use a rag or brush.

I prefer to spray finishes, but when I can't I use this method. I think it gives better surface than with either a foam or bristle brush.