Thread: Wood on Handtools (Linseed?)

I believe that raw and boiled linseed oil are identical except that the boiled version has chemical driers added which make it dry faster. I use boiled linseed oil and wax on the wooden parts of tools I've restored and for what it is it looks ok.

It's not going to hold a shine though. If you're looking for that you could use shellac.

I'm also a technology education teacher and suggest that for students 'components', linseed oil will be fine. You will find that if you buy 5 ltrs it will last long enough to turn into 'thick oil' which means the oil has begun to oxidize hence thickening. It has a pleasant odour unlike other chemicals/oils.

silentC hit the nail right on the head. SHELLAC. If these tools are to be kept for every day use then shellac would have to be 100 times better and not all that much dearer than oil which will only end up a dull, dirty, mess after only a few uses.

Most handles on paint brushes and hand tools were finished by dipping in shellac. Don't know if they still are but it is still preferable to oil of any sort.

However if the students are making them and all you really want is a quick, easy and totally foolproof finish then Pale Boiled Oil would be the best.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers - Neil

All the older handtools handles I have were either dipped or sprayed with shellac. This is precisely what Stanley did with their "type 19" rosewood benchplane handles. The problem is that too much was applied and it chips off easily. It's the best finish by far but don't put on too much to the point that you see a film 'coat' develop.

I've refinished a myriad of wood handles tools, all with shellac. Some examples:

1) modern store bought beech mallet: Blond shellac then wax
2) 50's Canadian Disston backsaw (applewood or maple I think): same blond shellac and wax
3) 70's Freund hedge shears (beech): same again
3) 70's Stanley UK 803 hand drill (beech): orange shellac (though I now think it would look a lot better had it been stained a deep red/brown)

Shellacing will take only an hour (wiped on) and is virtually non toxic (watch the meth content) and will be dry. Oil takes forever and feels sticky if anything other than a quick wipe is used. On dark woods you might like to use a lick of oil to enrich the colour, let it cure then finish with shellac and wax. No finish is permanent but it's as good as you can get.

My modern rosewood Sorby squares and a set of Crown plane handles (all D. latifolia) are finished with nitro lacquer (as was told by the manufacturers) and simply feel horrible.

I oil the handles of all of my gardening tools ie spades etc with a 50/50 mix raw linseed oil/mineral turps.
It does take a while to dry but has a pleasant odour and seems to last well. It is NOT sticky but does leave residue on your hands.


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