Thread: woodturning finishes

Wecome to the forum Cameron. The Ubeat polishes are a good start. You will get lots of people giving you lots of options very soon I'm sure. Sometimes I use danish oil, the Ubeaut Shellawax is great, I also like the Traditional Wax. Hope this helps

In my opinion, three products that should be on every turner's shelf are Danish Oil, EEE and Shellawax.


These have been extremely well covered in these forums if you do a search, EEE & Shellawax are made by our forum host. ie. They're UBeaut products.


But to boil it down to a nutshell....

UBeaut Shellawax is more or less a shellac that's applied to the piece on the lathe. A little bit on a rag, press firmly and work it into the spinning piece. If properly done, your fingertips will get hot!

It's best to leave the piece for a week or three before giving it much handling. But this is true of any finish, really.



Danish Oil is wiped onto the finished piece, left until it goes tacky, then wiped off. Left for at least a day, lightly sanded back and then another coat applied. This process is repeated until you have enough coats to get the finish you want. Well done it's so, so glossy. Ooooh! Aaaah!

Some say "1 coat a day for a week. Then a coat a week for a month, a coat a month for a year, then a coat every year after that." Which has some element of truth to it. The best thing about a good* DO is that if the piece ever gets dented or scratched, you can just sand the area and give it a fresh coat.

(My personal preference is Rustin's Danish Oil... IMHO the muck you buy as alleged "Danish Oil" thru Bunnies, Mire 10, etc is really just a PolyUrethane that has had an eye-dropper's worth of tongue oil waved over the top of it. But that's a whole different soap-box that I probably shouldn't get on here. )

* = Good meaning "high proportion of Tung Oil, low to nil proportion of PolyU"


EEE is a pre-finish. No matter what finish I use, I always use this first. If I sand to, say, 600 grit then using this will give me the equivalent of... oh, I dunno... working down to about 12000 grit?

Just a bit applied to a rag and applied like a friction finish after sanding. Then, using a clean rag, all traces of it must be removed before applying the finish. Just keep polishing on the lathe until no more "colour" comes off.


Good luck and enjoy!

EEE is a pre-finish. No matter what finish I use, I always use this first. If I sand to, say, 600 grit then using this will give me the equivalent of... oh, I dunno... working down to about 1200 grit?

Just a bit applied to a rag and applied like a friction finish after sanding. Then, using a clean rag, all traces of it must be removed before applying the finish. Just keep polishing on the lathe until no more "colour" comes off.

As Skew said, EEE is an extension of the sanding process but it actually breaks down to about 12-15,000 grit the more you work it BUT you must go to at least 400# before you use it.

The higher the better.

Yup, Danish Oil & Shellawax Cream for me, depending on the piece & its use.

I also have Shellawax of spindle work, tool handles etc & Traditional Wax.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

In my opinion, three products that should be on every turner's shelf are Danish Oil, EEE and Shellawax.

I'm with him, and him and him!
When you are starting out the Ubeaut products might not seem that cheap but a little goes a long way and a jar will last for ages.
Enjoy!

Everything the brains trust said.

Great info to me!
Thanks all

thanks everyone that explains alot,

so i will get a shella wax product which one though? cream or the original bottle stuff?

cam

Hi Cam,

I'd get the EEE Ultrashine to top off the sanding process and get Shellawax Cream to finish.

-Scott.

This might help. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/usi...llawax-131234/

HI ROBO
A question when sanding a bowl to 600 grit and eee cream,+ shellawax glow why do i get stains if it gets whiped with a damp cloth.
regards john.

How long between finishing and wiping?

Originally Posted by khumo

thanks everyone that explains alot,

so i will get a shella wax product which one though? cream or the original bottle stuff?

cam

This all depends on the size of the project.

The liquid is generally suited to smaller turnings where you can apply it and it is still wet when polishing, pens bottle stoppers etc

The cream was developed for larger turnings bowls, platters etc where you turn the lathe of apply the cream and then turn the lathe on to polish.

12months john